Need help getting shear bolt out of driveshaft

[denverdave66]

I am new to all this tractor stuff but got a brand new John Deere 1026 with a LandPride RCR 1248 rotary cutter. I was mowing some small under brush today not more than 1/4" thick and I noticed something was wrong. I shut it down and there was a top half and bottom half of a bolt I found it is the shear bolt, which is used to pin the end of the drive shaft to the stub shaft at the front of the gearbox. The problem is part of the bolt is still in the driveshaft. Any tips on getting it out? If I could get it out think I could fix it.

 

[art]

In order to get the left over piece out you have to align the shafts the same as if you were putting the bolt in. When I have issues with thngs like this when I do get it fixed I take a colored paint pen and put a line across all the pieces to make it easier to align the next time.

 

[Bartcephus]

I usually drive them out with a punch and a ball peen hammer.

 

[GGB]

I usually drive them out with a punch and a ball peen hammer.

Ditto. That was my suggestion, which I also posted on your other thread.

You've got a nice setup. Good luck!

 

[pacerron]

I am new to all this tractor stuff but got a brand new John Deere 1026 with a LandPride RCR 1248 rotary cutter. I was mowing some small under brush today not more than 1/4" thick and I noticed something was wrong. I shut it down and there was a top half and bottom half of a bolt I found it is the shear bolt, which is used to pin the end of the drive shaft to the stub shaft at the front of the gearbox. The problem is part of the bolt is still in the driveshaft. Any tips on getting it out? If I could get it out think I could fix it.

It did what it is designed to do, save your gearbox.
Just turn the PTO shaft until the hole in it lines up with the broken bolt piece.
Then use a drift punch or a smaller bolt to drive out the broken piece.
Replace the bolt and nut with one of the same size and hardness grade.
Do not use a hard bolt or you will defeat the purpose and risk damaging the gearbox.
If the old bolt didn't have a Nylock nut on it you might consider getting replacement bolts long enough to have the thread come out just a little when the Nylock nut is tight. Buy a bag of bolts. This won't be your last time to need them

 

[denverdave66]

You guys are lifesavers! I used a punch and a hammer and it came out very easily. I think I might be smart enough to figure out how to put the new bolt in. I am not very mechanically inclined especially on stuff I have never used before. When I told the john deere salesman I didn't know a thing about tractors I wasn't lying. I see that small tool box on my 1026 is going to get full quick.

 

[denverdave66]

What I really like about this forum is I had a problem and within 30 minutes I had several replies on how to fix it. I hope someday I can give feedback on how to fix problems but right now I am just trying to learn.

 

[pacerron]

You guys are lifesavers! I used a punch and a hammer and it came out very easily. I think I might be smart enough to figure out how to put the new bolt in. I am not very mechanically inclined especially on stuff I have never used before. When I told the john deere salesman I didn't know a thing about tractors I wasn't lying. I see that small tool box on my 1026 is going to get full quick.

Be careful. Read all the safety labels stuck all over the equipment and understand what they mean.
Use the outer guard safety chains to secure the housing as shown in the instructions for PTO devices.
Some of the "good old boys" will say they don't bother but the bushings can get tight and the safety housing can harm you just like a bare PTO would.
Just don't go back there with the engine running to do anything if there is a PTO shaft attached or to be attached.
It's your hands and arms or worse at risk, not theirs.

 

[beckmurph]

Make sure you put the correct hardness bolt back in. Too hard of a bolt, and it might be your gear box the next time.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

What I really like about this forum is I had a problem and within 30 minutes I had several replies on how to fix it. I hope someday I can give feedback on how to fix problems but right now I am just trying to learn.

I have a LP mower also. Do you have the manual for it? I recommend you read it now instead of "after everything else fails". LP specs a Grade 3 boilt. They are a little cheaper at the HDW store than the LP branded item at the tractor store. They also warn not to go any harder than grade 5. There is all kinds of info about bolts on the net so you cam brush up on terminology and theory. There is a real learning curve if you are going to do your own work and have not workrd with mechanical stuff much. We do like to help you guys though so do not take ofense if we get gruff once in awhile as we are pretty steeped in this mechanic stuff.

Ron