Brush hog adjusting questions

[nctacoma]

Hi,

These will be simple answers for those with experience.

I just had a brush hog dropped off by
My dealer and now I am trying to set it up for the tractor.
It is a Tennessee River Implement 6' Light Duty. The owners manual is a bit less informative than I would like.

First question; there are two blades coming off the center wheel. Should they be adjusted so they are opposite so that they form one 6' line? Right now they form a "V" with they way they are bolted to the blade bolts. That doesn't seem right.

Second question; when I am adjusting the top link to try to level the mower it doesn't seem like I can get the front of the mower off the ground when the 3pt hitch is in float mode. Do I mow in float mode? If so, how can I get the front end to raise up a few inches to level the mower? I adjust the top link and it moves the mower linkage, but doesn't seem to raise the front of the actual mower.

I know these are beginner questions but that's why I am here.

Thanks for the help. The tractor is a kubota 4330 if that helps.

 

[Mud Mechanik]

The blades are on pivot pins and will sling out to the right position when it is spinning.
The cutter rides on the back support wheel and should be off of the ground a little in the front, if you run in float, it will be dragging the ground.

 

[TripleR]

Hi,

These will be simple answers for those with experience.

I just had a brush hog dropped off by
My dealer and now I am trying to set it up for the tractor.
It is a Tennessee River Implement 6' Light Duty. The owners manual is a bit less informative than I would like.

First question; there are two blades coming off the center wheel. Should they be adjusted so they are opposite so that they form one 6' line? Right now they form a "V" with they way they are bolted to the blade bolts. That doesn't seem right.

Second question; when I am adjusting the top link to try to level the mower it doesn't seem like I can get the front of the mower off the ground when the 3pt hitch is in float mode. Do I mow in float mode? If so, how can I get the front end to raise up a few inches to level the mower? I adjust the top link and it moves the mower linkage, but doesn't seem to raise the front of the actual mower.

I know these are beginner questions but that's why I am here.

Thanks for the help. The tractor is a kubota 4330 if that helps.

Pretty much all rotary cutters will be adjusted the same. Go to the Land Pride site and download a manual for a cutter similar to yours and follow that.

You will want to set the height with the position control on your 3PH, pick a number that puts your deck height where you want it then move your stop to that position.

The front will be an inch or so lower in the front than back. You may need to adjust the tail wheel from how it came. The tail wheel will be touch and carrying weight when in use.

Adjust the toplink to put the swinging link in a downward position so the deck will "float" over irregularities as the tail wheel and tractor go up or down.

Be sure you are level side to side and use the crank on the right lift arm to do so.

I adjust on a flat concrete deck, but level ground will do.

You might want to do some fine tunning to get the right cut.

There are some good threads on this with a lot of good, more detailed information. Some add chains and some even remove the top link to allow more movement; lots of opinions, mine is only one.

 

[90cummins]

You need to install check chains to control the cut.
These attach to each side of the mower deck and up to the side of the top link on the tractor.
You will need to purchase small link welded chain that is sufficient to carry the weight of the front of the mower and two slotted chain hooks that attach to the side of the top link pin.
Height and level adjustment is adjusted by the chains.
The front should be lower than the rear by an inch or more. This reduces the HP required by preventing the mower from cutting twice.
Particularly important in heavy rough cutting.

 

[TripleR]

You need to install check chains to control the cut.
These attach to each side of the mower deck and up to the side of the top link on the tractor.
You will need to purchase small link welded chain that is sufficient to carry the weight of the front of the mower and two slotted chain hooks that attach to the side of the top link pin.
Height and level adjustment is adjusted by the chains.
The front should be lower than the rear by an inch or more. This reduces the HP required by preventing the mower from cutting twice.
Particularly important in heavy rough cutting.

I have never needed check chains on a properly function position control.

 

[s219]

I have never needed check chains on a properly function position control.

Not all tractors have position control!

 

[TripleR]

Not all tractors have position control!

Don't I know it, got a couple that don't myself, that's why I specified "properly working position control".

The OP has a Kubota L30 Series which has a position control 3PH just like my L5030.

 

[k0ua]

Hi,

These will be simple answers for those with experience.

I just had a brush hog dropped off by
My dealer and now I am trying to set it up for the tractor.
It is a Tennessee River Implement 6' Light Duty. The owners manual is a bit less informative than I would like.

First question; there are two blades coming off the center wheel. Should they be adjusted so they are opposite so that they form one 6' line? Right now they form a "V" with they way they are bolted to the blade bolts. That doesn't seem right.

Second question; when I am adjusting the top link to try to level the mower it doesn't seem like I can get the front of the mower off the ground when the 3pt hitch is in float mode. Do I mow in float mode? If so, how can I get the front end to raise up a few inches to level the mower? I adjust the top link and it moves the mower linkage, but doesn't seem to raise the front of the actual mower.

I know these are beginner questions but that's why I am here.

Thanks for the help. The tractor is a kubota 4330 if that helps.

I will put my "spin" on this. Of course the blades will sling out when under power as already noted. Now on to adjusting the mower the way you want it:

You must have flat ground, or a flat driveway. Decide what height you want to mow. Judge this by the front edge of a blade as it comes around to the front intake area of the mower. You have position control on your tractor. so set the height of the front edge of the blade as you mowing height. set the position control level stop so that the lever cannot go any further down than what you decide. Now check the adjustment of the tail wheel it should just kiss the ground when when you lower the cutter to you chosen lower height. One assumption you are making is that "float mode" is with the position control all the way down.. the 3pt is always in "float mode" not just when all the way down. It will always float up from what ever position you have it set at. So now with you chosen mowing height. and the tail wheel set to kiss the ground, and you want the rear a little higher than the front, like has been pointed out.. check the symmetry of the mower both side to side along the centerline of the tractor, adjust your telescoping side stabilizers to allow just a little slop as you push it side to side, and centered on the tractor. Now make sure the right and left side of the of the mower are the same distance above the ground. Adjust your right lifting link to adjust this if needed. you are likely to need to raise and lower the cutter several times to check these parameters. So to sum up.. front edge of blade always coming to the height you want to cut.. Your position control is locked to this lowest setting. you mower is centered on the centerline of the tractor, the left and right side of the cutter the same distance above the ground, the rear of the mower is a little higher than the front, the tail wheel is adjusted to be on the ground and carrying a little of the weight at the height you wanted. PTO is hooked up and you are ready to attack:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

James, not to disagree, but

From my manual:The top center link should be loose when deck rear is
supported by the tail wheel. If not, lengthen center link until loose. Final adjustment will be made later.

Refer to Figure 2-2:
1. Lower cutter deck to the nominal cutting height.
2. Adjust length of tractor痴 3-point top center link such
that the top and bottom hitch pins are aligned
vertically with each other. The pivot hitch should be
at about a 45 degree angle when adjusted correctly.
3. Lock center link in this position.

This places the weight of the cutter on the tail wheel.

I have a hydraulic top link and do adjust to have the tail wheel just kiss the ground when backing over drop offs, but keep the pivot hitch per manual the rest of the time to follow contours.

I guess we all have our preferred methods.

 

[k0ua]

James, not to disagree, but

From my manual:The top center link should be loose when deck rear is
supported by the tail wheel. If not, lengthen center link until loose. Final adjustment will be made later.

Refer to Figure 2-2:
1. Lower cutter deck to the nominal cutting height.
2. Adjust length of tractor痴 3-point top center link such
that the top and bottom hitch pins are aligned
vertically with each other. The pivot hitch should be
at about a 45 degree angle when adjusted correctly.
3. Lock center link in this position.

This places the weight of the cutter on the tail wheel.

I have a hydraulic top link and do adjust to have the tail wheel just kiss the ground when backing over drop offs, but keep the pivot hitch per manual the rest of the time to follow contours.

I guess we all have our preferred methods.

Sure, if you have a manual, follow the manual. I was giving general directions to get him going. I have modified my cutter to have gauge wheels on the front, to prevent gouging when operating on rough uneven terrain (which is about all i have). I usually adjust to have them just ever so slightly off the ground on level ground. I know others do other things like chains instead of top link, and check chains etc.

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

Sure, if you have a manual, follow the manual. I was giving general directions to get him going. I have modified my cutter to have gauge wheels on the front, to prevent gouging when operating on rough uneven terrain (which is about all i have). I usually adjust to have them just ever so slightly off the ground on level ground. I know others do other things like chains instead of top link, and check chains etc.

James K0UA

Same here, I remember a really LOOONG thread on this, but I'm too lazy to look it up. What works well for one won't for another and some like you have made custom modifications to better fit your needs.

I think about gauge wheels in the front sometimes, but there is that whole lazy thing.:laughing:

I actually have some dirt and flat land, so I can operate different than you and of course there is that whole Kioti handicap...:laughing::laughing:

 

[TripleR]

Just a few posts:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/220947-chains-instead-top-link-bush.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/196962-how-bush-hog.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/152473-guage-wheels-bush-hog.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/145455-adjusting-brush-hog.html

 

[k0ua]

I actually have some dirt and flat land, so I can operate different than you and of course there is that whole Kioti handicap

Yeah, Yeah,. I am enjoying this Kioti "handicap" when I am setting in my cushy suspension seat, Hooking up with my telescoping links, using my electric/hydraulic 4WD actuator, and PTO engagement, My tilt wheel, My thick rubber mat floorboards, and all the other little comfort and control functions.. ha ha. I just hope all this electronic crap keeps on working
There is even an indicator on the dash to tell you if your split brakes (on the left side I might point out) are unlocked. Believe it or not there is a micro-switch on the pedal shaft to sense this. It is amazing to me how quickly I have become accustomed to the brakes on the left, and the dual pedal setup..I am fully acclimated to this now.

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

I actually have some dirt and flat land, so I can operate different than you and of course there is that whole Kioti handicap

Yeah, Yeah,. I am enjoying this Kioti "handicap" when I am setting in my cushy suspension seat, Hooking up with my telescoping links, using my electric/hydraulic 4WD actuator, and PTO engagement, My tilt wheel, My thick rubber mat floorboards, and all the other little comfort and control functions.. ha ha. I just hope all this electronic crap keeps on working
There is even an indicator on the dash to tell you if your split brakes (on the left side I might point out) are unlocked. Believe it or not there is a micro-switch on the pedal shaft to sense this. It is amazing to me how quickly I have become accustomed to the brakes on the left, and the dual pedal setup..I am fully acclimated to this now.

James K0UA

I know what you mean, I had to adjust to the AIR CONDITIONING on ours...:laughing::laughing::laughing:

As you know, my left leg is just along for the ride, so I can't operate a tractor with left foot brakes; haven't used our John Deere in a long time, but I can see where they would be helpful for some. I rarely even touch the brakes on our HST, but do on our geared units.

I know this doesn't happen often and a person shouldn't be doing it, but I have often pushed the envelope on a tractor. A year or so ago, I was repairing a washout on a pond levy when I had one of those OH HECK moments and instinctively hitting the right foot brakes (geared tractor) kept me out of the pond. Switching from one tractor to another isn't a problem for some, but I'm not so sure I am one of them.

Dual HST pedals are pretty much as wash to me, but my wife doesn't like them.

I don't know if your tractor has it or not, but I really like the dismount 3PH adjustment on some Kioti units.

Just to be clear to everyone, I am only kidding James, I don't bash tractors though I do kid around a bit. Life is too short to take it too seriously.

 

[90cummins]

I have never needed check chains on a properly function position control.

The chains help maintain a consistent cut height when you need to quickly raise to avoid an obstacle, you can then just lower it to resume with no need to look back & reset .
Just makes the job easier & avoids gouging the ground with the skids.

 

[TripleR]

The chains help maintain a consistent cut height when you need to quickly raise to avoid an obstacle, you can then just lower it to resume with no need to look back & reset .
Just makes the job easier & avoids gouging the ground with the skids.

I can do this by setting my 3PH lever to the proper height and moving the block to stop the lever at the same height. Our CX80 had dials with numbers to limit travel up and down, so you just used a rocker switch to return to the pre set heights.

I may be misunderstanding you though and if that's the case, I apologize.

 

[k0ua]

I know what you mean, I had to adjust to the AIR CONDITIONING on ours...:laughing::laughing::laughing:

As you know, my left leg is just along for the ride, so I can't operate a tractor with left foot brakes; haven't used our John Deere in a long time, but I can see where they would be helpful for some. I rarely even touch the brakes on our HST, but do on our geared units.

I know this doesn't happen often and a person shouldn't be doing it, but I have often pushed the envelope on a tractor. A year or so ago, I was repairing a washout on a pond levy when I had one of those OH HECK moments and instinctively hitting the right foot brakes (geared tractor) kept me out of the pond. Switching from one tractor to another isn't a problem for some, but I'm not so sure I am one of them.

Dual HST pedals are pretty much as wash to me, but my wife doesn't like them.

I don't know if your tractor has it or not, but I really like the dismount 3PH adjustment on some Kioti units.

Just to be clear to everyone, I am only kidding James, I don't bash tractors though I do kid around a bit. Life is too short to take it too seriously.

Yes it has the rear 3pt lever you can operate while you are hooking up. It is handy. Yeah the air cond. might be pretty hard to get used to in this 90 degree weather.:laughing: I don't really need a cab in my terrain and uses, but there are times.. Tell you what I really enjoy my sunshade though. It makes a big difference.

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

Yes it has the rear 3pt lever you can operate while you are hooking up. It is handy. Yeah the air cond. might be pretty hard to get used to in this 90 degree weather.:laughing: I don't really need a cab in my terrain and uses, but there are times.. Tell you what I really enjoy my sunshade though. It makes a big difference.

James K0UA

It sure does, we put one on our Massey Ferguson 375 a few years after we bought it and man that was nice. We also have one on our Case 995. We don't have any on our Fords and they get pretty darned warm.

My brothers operate those now; had to give them up last year.

 

[nctacoma]

Thanks for all the helpful information.

Got it all hooked up and tried it out on one of my woods roads and it worked great. I guess I should have asked more questions at the dealer.

 

[jeff9366]

Should you later decide you wish limit chains for the front of your rotary mower a kit is available from Steven's Tractor Company.

LINK TO STEVEN'S TRACTOR: Chain Limiter Kit

Mine arrived today. I am posting photos to give a better idea of dimensions and bracket angles than Steven's listing alone.