Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice

[Soundguy]

Ok, that looks identical to the area where my shifter is... except there is no 4. That is a little odd.

Anyways, I checked the IT manual again. The listing is as follows:

4 speed Transmission: 6.5 quarts

Differential: 8 quarts

Hydraulic Reservoir: 8quarts (I'm guessing). It appears like this in the manual 8(4). I am assuming that means 8 quarts.

It also says that the crank case holds 5 quarts. What type of fluid do I use in the crankcase?

Also, I just want to clarify, it is perfectly safe and normal to use UTF that meets the specs you mentioned above in the differential, the hydraulic reservoir, and the transmission? Thanks so much guys.

yep.. the 8/4 in hyds is for machines with no hyds.. you still put 4 qts oil in that sump to lube the seal that is between the hyds and diffy section.. in reality, the hyds section will hold in excess of 12qts.. IE.. 3g, in case you have large external SA lift cyls..

utf meeting the m2c134 spec is fine in trans, diffy and hyds .. if oyu have leaky hyds to diffy seal.. I reccomend it in both areas.

or you can go gear oil 80w90 in trans and diffy, and utf in hyds.

most store brand utf is fine.. tsc, walmart.. napa/car quest.. etc. all are usually 35-50$ sometimes you see some for 20-25$ read the pail and make sure they meet the 134 spec.

DO not under any circumstance use R&O oil, or ISO 32/46/68 oils.. they are straight hyd oils and not made for diffy or tranny..

about 5.5 qts for crancase.. .5qt is for oil filter. buy 6qts, use the other .5 qt in the air filter oil bath...

 

[whitedogone]

I've always run straight 30wt. in mine. I changed it today and used 20-50W. I hope I didn't screw up.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

In 1962 that bought one of the last red/gray 801's and started out and all ways used 10W-30. Three was no one that he could find that had ever done that and it worked find for the 30+ years the tractor was in the family. It was the only tractor on the placed and often we grew 100 acres of corn plus general farming tasks. In the spring it would often see 16 hours a day six days a week if weather permitted.

Today it is hard to use the wrong motor oil because the low end specs are now higher then the high end specs 50-60 years ago.

 

[Soundguy]

In 1962 that bought one of the last red/gray 801's and started out and all ways used 10W-30. Three was no one that he could find that had ever done that and it worked find for the 30+ years the tractor was in the family. It was the only tractor on the placed and often we grew 100 acres of corn plus general farming tasks. In the spring it would often see 16 hours a day six days a week if weather permitted.

Today it is hard to use the wrong motor oil because the low end specs are now higher then the high end specs 50-60 years ago.

red tigers have very good oil systems. even a engine in low average or better condition should be fine on 10w30.. and yes.. the cheap jiffy store oil today is better than what was probably use din alot of farm equipment int he 50's and 60's

 

[Soundguy]

I've always run straight 30wt. in mine. I changed it today and used 20-50W. I hope I didn't screw up.

if it had low oil pressure 20w50 is likely fine.. 15w40 would have beenmy choice. red tigers generally oil well, even when worn.

i have a few rattle trap ones that still hold excelent oil pressure at hot idle, and don't use anything heavier than 15w40. still.. there are oil reliefs.. so as long as you are not seeing excessive oil pressures.. you will likely be fine.

 

[whitedogone]

if it had low oil pressure 20w50 is likely fine.. 15w40 would have beenmy choice. red tigers generally oil well, even when worn.

i have a few rattle trap ones that still hold excelent oil pressure at hot idle, and don't use anything heavier than 15w40. still.. there are oil reliefs.. so as long as you are not seeing excessive oil pressures.. you will likely be fine.

I wanted to go with with 15-40 as well, but they only had 10-40 and 20-50. It runs near 60 psi at full throttle dropping back to around 35-40 at idle.

 

[Soundguy]

I wanted to go with with 15-40 as well, but they only had 10-40 and 20-50. It runs near 60 psi at full throttle dropping back to around 35-40 at idle.

if you are seeing 60 psi at throttle, you are for sure into the relief.

IMHO.. I'd drain out a quart or two and add a qwuart or two of marvel mystery oil.. or atf fluid type F.. or 10w30 oil.

 

[knifeman32]

Alright guys, time to re-open this thread. I am very pleased with the performance of my tractor. I have only had one issue and I could use some help figuring it out. I am having issues keeping the battery charged. For some reason, it seems as if the battery is losing power. I believe I have a short somewhere. Everytime I try to start the tractor, it gives me a bit of trouble. It sounds like the battery just doesn't have enough juice. I changed the battery a few weeks ago and it worked well for about three weeks. Now I am having the same issues. I think I have a short in a wire somewhere. My question is, where do I start looking? What should I look for? Any parts that I should replace? Thanks guys.

 

[jinman]

I would troubleshoot the power leakage by disconnecting the lead from the battery at the starter solenoid. Make sure all the other wires that are connected at that point are left in place. Now, put a milliammeter inline between the disconnected battery lead and the solenoid terminal. If there is leakage, the ammeter will show you how much the current drain is. It might be best to start with the 10 amp circuit to be sure you don't have a high current drain. Once you establish the current drain and can monitor it, start disconnecting things until the current goes to zero. As soon as the current goes to zero, the last thing disconnected is the culprit. It could be your alternator/generator, light switch, ignition switch, or voltage regulator if you have an external one. It might even be a short in the starter solenoid. You just have to use a method that disconnects only one thing at a time to be sure which component is the source of your problem.

 

[Soundguy]

another issue.. is it even charging?

don't take much juice to start a well tuned tractor.. and will run off a battery for DAYS with a 3a draw for points.

might she not be charging?


refresh a bit.

oem genny setup.. alternator?

did you add an ammeter.. .. if a 3 wire alt.. how is #1 wired?