Wow! So much to learn.

[emcvay]

Nice looking land! With those slopes, think wide & low .... wide & low.
Weight alone isn't the answer - you'll be wanting a low CG to stay on all 4 wheels.
Try to get a machine with tires set wide and get as much weight as you can down low.
Spend some extra time searching and reading threads on ballast and the consequences of not ballasting properly.
For stability, I think you may want loaded R4s.
You'll be trading some traction for stability, but you can get a lot of that traction back with tire chains.
Definitely don't plan on using this machine to cut the lawn.

Thanks for the reply -- can you give me an example of 'wide and low' vs. what I've been looking at?

I think the NH1520 is lower then the Mahindra's but the Mahindra's are heavier.

I plan to use R4's (I think with my terrain they would be best) and filling them. I believe with the loader I may need weight on the rear too??

 

[emcvay]

Yes. I think you could get away with that size tractor, but to do what you plan in limited time not living on the land and such a slope, at least I would want something larger with a wider wheel base and I would still plan on getting spacers or flipping the wheels. You'll get a lot more stability in the 4035 vs 3616.

A salesman mentioned pushing the wheels out wider on an old Massey when I first started this quest and when I asked the John Deere dealer he said spacers were possible but flipping the wheels wasn't....

Looked at the bigger rigs a bit more but price concerns me. Also finding used harder to find then I expected but I'll keep looking.

Thanks

 

[Martian]

A salesman mentioned pushing the wheels out wider on an old Massey when I first started this quest and when I asked the John Deere dealer he said spacers were possible but flipping the wheels wasn't....

Looked at the bigger rigs a bit more but price concerns me. Also finding used harder to find then I expected but I'll keep looking.

Thanks

Check out this thread: (You may consider doing something like this if your handy enough)
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/246465-evolution-spider-tractor.html

I bought my 110TLB used in February. I'd been looking for months, nothing was popping up locally, so I bought it and had it shipped in from Montana 1800 miles away. The deals are out there, just not right next to you all the time. Keep looking and take your time and fight exactly what you want. I could have settled, but I got exactly what I wanted and happy I took the time and found it.

 

[emcvay]

Check out this thread: (You may consider doing something like this if your handy enough)
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/246465-evolution-spider-tractor.html

I bought my 110TLB used in February. I'd been looking for months, nothing was popping up locally, so I bought it and had it shipped in from Montana 1800 miles away. The deals are out there, just not right next to you all the time. Keep looking and take your time and fight exactly what you want. I could have settled, but I got exactly what I wanted and happy I took the time and found it.

Oh to have the time!

My problem is I'm VERY limited on time The tractor is needed to give me a chance to get more done in less time since I have only two weekends a month to get things done at the property and that includes getting the orchard done and finishing the cabin etc.

So I'll have to buy what I can right off and go with it....

 

[emcvay]

One thought I had was about mowing my hill side. I'm ASSUMING (what else can I do?) that it's like, in a way I suppose, driving my jeep or an ATV up and down the hill rather then across the grade (where roll over can happen)?

So does it make much difference going UP or DOWN the grade in the type of tractor?

In my case I can drive up to the pasture and turn around since it's flat (run a race oval to mow) and again can turn around on the road or flatter areas at the bottom of the hill.

Of course, I presume that there is a certain grade you don't want to go up but I've taken my jeep up the steepest section of the hill I'd care to attempt and doubt I'd go UP in a tractor on that grade anyway -- whereas going down sounds safer since I could lower the bucket to prevent tipping over......right?

 

[k0ua]

One thought I had was about mowing my hill side. I'm ASSUMING (what else can I do?) that it's like, in a way I suppose, driving my jeep or an ATV up and down the hill rather then across the grade (where roll over can happen)?

So does it make much difference going UP or DOWN the grade in the type of tractor?

In my case I can drive up to the pasture and turn around since it's flat (run a race oval to mow) and again can turn around on the road or flatter areas at the bottom of the hill.

Of course, I presume that there is a certain grade you don't want to go up but I've taken my jeep up the steepest section of the hill I'd care to attempt and doubt I'd go UP in a tractor on that grade anyway -- whereas going down sounds safer since I could lower the bucket to prevent tipping over......right?

You need to keep the bucket low, but what ever you do, don't snag the bucket especially on a corner as it can start a slide where the rear end wants to come around and you wind up side-hill and then an overturn. Some say it is safer to back down a hill. but there is a difference of opinion on this. I have done both, and lived to tell about it. But be careful on hills. ALWAYS stay in 4WD so the contact patch of the front tires will assist in keeping your from sliding down the hill from engine compression braking or if you apply the brakes. The front wheels don't have any brakes on them themselves (in CUT sized tractors) but are mechanically hooked to the rear differential which has brakes on each axle. If the grass is wet, or really muddy, best to just stay off of the hills. Mow when dry. Enough of scaring you, I don't know how steep your hills are, and maybe to someone more experienced with a tractor they might think "no big deal".. Or they might think "no freaking way!" Just be careful, and maybe try some of the less scary slopes first.. Good Luck

James K0UA

 

[emcvay]

You need to keep the bucket low, but what ever you do, don't snag the bucket especially on a corner as it can start a slide where the rear end wants to come around and you wind up side-hill and then an overturn. Some say it is safer to back down a hill. but there is a difference of opinion on this. I have done both, and lived to tell about it. But be careful on hills. ALWAYS stay in 4WD so the contact patch of the front tires will assist in keeping your from sliding down the hill from engine compression braking or if you apply the brakes. The front wheels don't have any brakes on them themselves (in CUT sized tractors) but are mechanically hooked to the rear differential which has brakes on each axle. If the grass is wet, or really muddy, best to just stay off of the hills. Mow when dry. Enough of scaring you, I don't know how steep your hills are, and maybe to someone more experienced with a tractor they might think "no big deal".. Or they might think "no freaking way!" Just be careful, and maybe try some of the less scary slopes first.. Good Luck

James K0UA

That should give you an idea of the slopes I'm going to be mowing.

After another chat with the Mahindra dealer it's going to come down to cost vs. need I think. At nearly $4000 more for a 4530 or 4035 the 3616 is looking like the tractor I'm more likely to choose if I go with Mahindra and 35hp (actually it's 36hp).

Might be nice to have a bigger tractor but that $4000 could go a long way to buy implements etc and it sounds like the 3616 will handle the job fine.

As for the hill, I'll have to play that by ear and only tackle it once I have more experience. I also have a driveway to get the snow off of (and ice)....yes chains will be required in the winter -- no way around that....let me find a pic of that drive to see what you think

 

[emcvay]

Here's a shot of the driveway/easement road -- it's the steepest and worst section of road I have. I hope to be able to clean it up each year and keep the snow and ice off of it as much as possible in the winter.


There's another shot of the driveway.


Last one -- notice the ICE -- it can get 6+ inches deep on this road. Mostly from the snow melt both on the drive itself but also the trees.

Treacherous in the winter but with 4wd, limited slip and 4 chains on my jeep it's no biggie

 

[emcvay]

Just in case you all thought my 20 acres was just a big side hill

There's quite a bit like this also.

Now looking at all these pictures makes me want to get BACK! Sheesh...come on FRIDAY!

 

[k0ua]

That should give you an idea of the slopes I'm going to be mowing.

After another chat with the Mahindra dealer it's going to come down to cost vs. need I think. At nearly $4000 more for a 4530 or 4035 the 3616 is looking like the tractor I'm more likely to choose if I go with Mahindra and 35hp (actually it's 36hp).

Might be nice to have a bigger tractor but that $4000 could go a long way to buy implements etc and it sounds like the 3616 will handle the job fine.

As for the hill, I'll have to play that by ear and only tackle it once I have more experience. I also have a driveway to get the snow off of (and ice)....yes chains will be required in the winter -- no way around that....let me find a pic of that drive to see what you think

Well from what I can see here, this don't look too bad.. its doable.

 

[k0ua]

View attachment 269859
Here's a shot of the driveway/easement road -- it's the steepest and worst section of road I have. I hope to be able to clean it up each year and keep the snow and ice off of it as much as possible in the winter.

View attachment 269860
There's another shot of the driveway.

View attachment 269861
Last one -- notice the ICE -- it can get 6+ inches deep on this road. Mostly from the snow melt both on the drive itself but also the trees.

Treacherous in the winter but with 4wd, limited slip and 4 chains on my jeep it's no biggie

Um.. I don't like the looks of this with snow and ice on it.. but I am a mostly southern boy.. be sure to use chains is all I say.

James K0UA

 

[k0ua]

View attachment 269862
Just in case you all thought my 20 acres was just a big side hill

There's quite a bit like this also.

Now looking at all these pictures makes me want to get BACK! Sheesh...come on FRIDAY!

Of course this if fine... pretty too.

James K0UA

 

[emcvay]

Well from what I can see here, this don't look too bad.. its doable.

Thanks, that's probably the steepest section I would mess with. The rest the deer and cows (free range) can deal with.

Lots of work there to do! Of course, I also have a cabin to finish.....:confused2::mur:

 

[emcvay]

Um.. I don't like the looks of this with snow and ice on it.. but I am a mostly southern boy.. be sure to use chains is all I say.

James K0UA

LOL I don't like the looks of it either -- specially when it's covered in 6 inches of solid ice and 12 inches of snow! Even with chains only on the front you tend to pucker going up and I grew up in BC (British Columbia CAN)!

 

[emcvay]

Of course this if fine... pretty too.

James K0UA

Thanks -- nothing like a pine forest in Northern Washington in the late spring or early summer after a couple months of rain It's one of the best places in the world!

 

[emcvay]

I received this email from a salesmen today and would like your thoughts on it:

Erik, really appreciate the list of things you will be using the tractor
for. Tractors are tools and you want the right one for the job. Knowing what
you'll be using it for helps me recommend the right tool. Looking at your
list and acreage I would highly recommend a "utility" size tractor. In
tractors we have some basic physical sizes. Sub compact, Compact, Utility,
Utility Ag. Horsepower has no relation to size. A 25 hp tractor and a 36 hp
tractor can be the same size. I have a 35 hp tractor that weighs 5500 pounds
and a 36 hp tractor that weighs 2800 pounds. Sub Compact and Compact would
just be to small for what you're doing. So that really eliminates the
Mahindra 3616 and the 1600 series Masseys which are "Compacts". They are
just to light on their feet for some of the tasks on your list and they are
limited (by horsepower) to a 5 foot brush hog which will take forever to do
10 to 15 acres of mowing.

The 3535 has been discontinued which is a good thing. It was big but very
underpowered. It was replaced by the 4010 which is a great tractor but still
really a compact at 3000 pounds. The 4035 on the other hand is a real
utility sized tractor at 4300 pounds (same horsepower but big difference in
size and weight).The other model to look at is the 5010. It is 50hp but is
the same size as the 4035 and with the current incentives is cheaper than
the 4035. On the 5010 they are offering 4.25% for 72 months and zero down,
zero interest and zero payments till November and you get the same price
incentives as if you were paying cash which on this model is $3000.00. that
puts the price at $19999.99. You can finance at 0% but you would loose the
rebate.

Everybody has 0% but there really is no such thing as 0%. The manufacture is
paying $222.00 per thousand you finance to buy 0%. For example if you
finance 20000 at 0% the manufacturer paid $4400. They add that to the price
and offer you 0%. With 0% you are always paying the interest up front at
4.25 you can decide how much interest you pay. There is no penalty for early
payment and any payment you made before November would be interest free.

As long as you are in our service area all sales come with free delivery,
free pickup for warranty work and 10% off implements for as long as you own
the tractor. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[emcvay]

After a lot of asking I was honestly starting to think I had it figured out and that a 3616 should do the job pretty well for me but a 4035 would be better. The price, however, on the 4035 made me think that I ought to settle for the smaller rig and be happy with it -- make it work so to speak.

Thinking back nearly 20 years I remember the little front end loaders I drove in a pulp mill (wood plant) and thought the smaller tractors, while not the end all be-all could do the job.

However, this salesmen gave me pause. For one, the $20k price on the 50hp MFWD tractor with loader seemed pretty darn good! It's actually no different in price then the 4035 and only marginally more then the 3616 I was looking at ($18,600 for Shuttle). SO price wise it's a deal I think.

Size on the other hand is, well, HUGE in comparison! We're talking nearly 5000 lbs just for the tractor and then adding the loader. That's a big tractor.

His point on how long it takes to mow 10-15 acres also made me pause; after all, I only have weekends to mow on and it would be nice to be able to mow it all in one weekend if possible.

Then, of course, is the potential to do other things. The 50hp has to count for a lot when hiring out (if at some time I decide to do that or need to). If, for example, I wanted to cut some hay (talk about needing to learn a LOT) then perhaps this tractor would do the job faster/better?

I recently saw a craig's list ad for someone to come (with tractor) to cut 17 acres of hay, windrow it and then come back and bail it -- price was around $1000 for the whole job (though I was guessing on the bailing costs). That made me thing: well, if I needed to I could hire out the tractor and my son

 

[rubicon79]

I was in a similar situation having just bought 17 acres that is very hilly and rocky. We had a dozer clear and pile 12 acres that will be pasture.

I had around $20k or so I wanted to spend with $23k being absolute max. The Mahindras really caught my eye with the value for true money. The models ending in 10 are TYM Korean made tractors. They didn't appear as well made in my opinion as the 35 or 16 series. The 16 series are made in Japan my Mitsubishi which are known to be quality units.

I only wanted to use a 5 ft bush hog. We kept a good many trees and have several places that just the tractor will fit so I didn't want anything wider than the tractor. I was able to buy a Mahindra 3616 shuttle cab with a loader for $23k out the door.

My hillsides can't be cut sideways on any tractor but i cut them easy up and down. It will pick up a 4x5 round bale out of the back of a truck without loaded tires or an implement on the back. I did load the tires and will use one but it will handle round bales. We only put out 15 or so bales a year for horses.

I have no regrets on the 3616. It's big enough for loader work but not too big for cleaning stalls and simple tasks. I prefer a shuttle but that's a personal thing. They feel stronger and don't have the whine of an HST but again that's a personal preference.

I will say I would not want anything smaller though. I thought this to be the compromise I was looking for plus I got my cab I wanted all inside my budget.

 

[emcvay]

I was in a similar situation having just bought 17 acres that is very hilly and rocky. We had a dozer clear and pile 12 acres that will be pasture.

I had around $20k or so I wanted to spend with $23k being absolute max. The Mahindras really caught my eye with the value for true money. The models ending in 10 are TYM Korean made tractors. They didn't appear as well made in my opinion as the 35 or 16 series. The 16 series are made in Japan my Mitsubishi which are known to be quality units.

I only wanted to use a 5 ft bush hog. We kept a good many trees and have several places that just the tractor will fit so I didn't want anything wider than the tractor. I was able to buy a Mahindra 3616 shuttle cab with a loader for $23k out the door.

My hillsides can't be cut sideways on any tractor but i cut them easy up and down. It will pick up a 4x5 round bale out of the back of a truck without loaded tires or an implement on the back. I did load the tires and will use one but it will handle round bales. We only put out 15 or so bales a year for horses.

I have no regrets on the 3616. It's big enough for loader work but not too big for cleaning stalls and simple tasks. I prefer a shuttle but that's a personal thing. They feel stronger and don't have the whine of an HST but again that's a personal preference.

I will say I would not want anything smaller though. I thought this to be the compromise I was looking for plus I got my cab I wanted all inside my budget.

You got a cab with that too? The $23k must be before taxes then? I've been assuming I'll have to pay sales tax on a tractor in WA State so have been calculating everything with an additional 8.8% tax on top.

Since the 5010 is a TYM I might pass on it right there lol -- I'm hearing the Mitsubishi/Japanese Mahindra's are the best and I need something that's going to be as trouble free as possible. My location is remote and the nearest tractor repair/dealer is at least an hour away not including the time it takes to get a heavy trailer down the mountain.....though no tractor is perfect I want to try to get one that has a good record so to speak.

I also hadn't though much about trying to get the brush hog and tractor between trees....this tends to make me lean back towards the 3616 again..

Thanks

 

[Martian]

I think your dealer is doing you right in steering you towards the 4035 or 5010. You will greatly benefit from the extra size and power.

Speaking of baling, I wouldn't attempt to run any sort of a baler behind the 3616, the 4035 would be able to run a small square, but the 5010 could definitely run a small square and possibly a round baler.

If I were you I'd still be looking at the 4035. I wouldn't be afraid of TYM, but the Mistubishi is definitely higher quality.

How much is a 5035? What type of transmission are you looking at?