Removing invasive trees/shrubs/vines

[greasemonkeyok]

A great tool for dealing with this is the Weed Wrench.

:thumbsup:


Ditto on the Weed Wrench. The instructions tell you to use a rocking motion instead of one big power pull. It works very well if you use that technique.

 

[RaydaKub]

And it's fun! An important part of Weed Wrench's success has been that most people find it fun to use."

Looks very effective. But I doubt it can be as much fun as seat time.

 

[1bush2hog]

:thumbsup:


Ditto on the Weed Wrench. The instructions tell you to use a rocking motion instead of one big power pull. It works very well if you use that technique.

That might work great if you have a small scale to work on and you have no steep hills to lug 25lbs around. You will also create a nice seed bed for regen I"ll take spray. Thank you

 

[Mark Page]

Glycophosphate will knock most stuff but it won't kill it. The last time I bought it the Farm Supply store gave me a 1/2 gallon of liquid nitrogen. I mix 25% more glycol than recommended and 1/2 the amount of recommended glycol in liquid nitrogen. This como will kill everything for good. Beware around grass or trees you want to save.
If you've got an overgrown field your best bet is to bush hog it on a regular basis. I've turned an overgrown plot into halfway decent pasture.

 

[wrooster]

The last time I bought it the Farm Supply store gave me a 1/2 gallon of liquid nitrogen.

I think some folks may know what you mean -- but you didn't buy a 1/2 gallon of liquid N. :laughing:

Wrooster

 

[wrooster]

Do some research on herbicides and treatment practices that are more effective on these invasives Cutting vines at the base of the tree and treating the cut end with herbicide will take care of the bittersweet and wisteria. What is left in the tree will rot and fall out on its own. Whatever you do don't mow or cut this stuff. It will return with a vengeance

I agree with everything above. My experience with wisteria (both chinese and japanese) is that the ONLY 100% effective approach is to poison the root system. In fact, I have had 6" diameter wisteria up in cherry trees, strangling them. You can't pull these size vines out of tree. In fact I have hung a Mini-Ex from some of these hefty vines. :laughing:

In these cases I cut the vine about 2' up from the soil, soaked a folded up paper towel in 40% Gly, placed it over the cut end of the vine, and then used a rubber band to secure a plastic sandwich bag over the "stump". A month later, the vine and ALL of it's "offspring" are dead. It will take 3 years for the vines to dry out and rot out of the tree. But the tree will thank you.

Wrooster

 

[dwhite]

I have just applied Garlon 4 in diesel to my alanthus trees this spring. It works. Will have to treat again next spring for those we missed. My woods are overtaken by MF Rose and I am planning on going to war with them. Will apply glyphosate with backpack sprayers this summer and repeat yearly until gone. There is no machinery that could help me do this due to the inaccessibility.

 

[Mark Page]

I think some folks may know what you mean -- but you didn't buy a 1/2 gallon of liquid N. :laughing:

Wrooster

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I always wondered about that. For nitrogen to exist as a liquid is must be kept very cold. I wonder now what he gave me.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Just a side story on chemical application. In my area we have blackberries and alder considered invasive. Spraying blackberries, or any ryzome type plant in the summer is wasting chemicals. The best time is fall when the berries start to shrivel. The plant is sucking sugars back to the ryzome for winter dormancy and if you spray then you kill the root. 2 nd best time is in the spring when new leaves are starting. and third is as you are cutting if in the summer, and I mean applying within a couple of minutes of the cut. Also be prepared to reapply for many years...

 

[1bush2hog]

Here's a link to some pretty good info on invasives: TNC Global Invasive Species Team page