Wildbill34
Silver Member
One thng for sure, you will become intimately familar with your tractor when you are done. Plus you get to clean out all those spaces you normally don't get to see.
HELP!! 2210 bad vibratioins !!
- Thread starter megotatractor
- Start date
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OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
how many hours do you have on those 'bota bearings so far?? Didn't really ever intend to get that intimate with her rear... but I have better use for the what, dealer charges $2000.oo??? Currently a 13 year old pickup with alignment and tune up issues, and a 10 year old car with a leaky ABS pump! ..and a slow outdated computer,,, etc. etc..
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
Well crap. First, John Deere part number for the ujoint "spider" is LVA803335. I spent over an hour taking the Deere apart, ROPS, fenders, floor. Wasn't too bad took just over an hour with help from an impact driver to spin off bolts quickly. Then with a good grip on the driveshaft in question now I'm not so sure what the problem is exactly or what to do. The dealer man is going to drop by some time this week to take a look. the ujoints don't seem all that bad, most of the jiggle seems to be in the spline. Maybe the joints just need some grease, but I can't see or get at the front knuckle. Dealer seems concerned that the 2210 gets fixed right. He says he has two orange tractors with major drivetrain issues and doesn't recommend the Bota bearings. I can't stomache the $2000 it is rumored to cost to fix this.
Got a good look at the lube zerk on the rear ujoint..... whatthe?... can't get a standard grease gun tip to the zerk, the joint knuckles are too close. Woulda been screwed even if I'd tried to maintain these joints.
Got a good look at the lube zerk on the rear ujoint..... whatthe?... can't get a standard grease gun tip to the zerk, the joint knuckles are too close. Woulda been screwed even if I'd tried to maintain these joints.
XSKIER
Platinum Member
Here's what I use on my driveshaft:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR6XE
The 1026R driveshaft is a little more accessible though. Also, the trans splines are long enough to slide the shaft back, drop the front, and slip the whole assembly out. However, I'm hoping the grease will be enough to prevent me from finding out how easy it could be to replace the driveshaft.
Good luck in your quest for parts and a successful repair.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR6XE
The 1026R driveshaft is a little more accessible though. Also, the trans splines are long enough to slide the shaft back, drop the front, and slip the whole assembly out. However, I'm hoping the grease will be enough to prevent me from finding out how easy it could be to replace the driveshaft.
Good luck in your quest for parts and a successful repair.
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
Update; Deere tech confirmed it was a bad ujoint, the front one. Now all I gotta do is work like a ship in a bottle to get the fricken c-clip off the front spline in a space barely large enough for a tool to get into. I did happen to get the pto turned to a point I can see bits of metal sticking out of it. Got to run and get a bigger clip pliers now.
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
update; it only took 3 hours but finally got that dang clip out and removed the driveshaft. BOTH ends were half seized, they would only "bend" in one direction. Tapping out the bearings was not fun, either. Several came out with nothing but reddish dust inside. Asked the tech how they lube those joints.... they take the tractor apart!!!!!! Oh easy maintenance! Too hot tonight, will pop in the new JD bearings and begin reassembly tomorrow.
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
'Well, I don't know how the rumor got started that it is required to "split" the tractor to repair the drive shaft. Not true, you need merely to remove about 90% of the body work and do a "ship in a bottle" routine to remove a snap ring and pound a pin out of the front spline, then as you say the rear spline is long enough to slide er back and forth butting against various obstacles to guide the shaft out from under the steering valve. Easy!
OP
megotatractor
Veteran Member
Update; The patient is recovered and ready to go back to work. John Deere spiders (2) cost $39.oo each. Popped in the new u joint parts, pumped them as full of grease as I could, and reassembled the tractor in about 2 hours. Ran into minor delays with bent snap rings and broken plastic clips and such, Plus the trying to remember which bolts went where... now I know, to access the front ujoint remove the kick panel below the dash and a metal plate on the right side of the frame! The rear joint might be lubable by miracle from underneath... I will try to do so every year from now on. It runs so much smoother and quieter now. I would like to thank Gregg from Ag Power JD in Hollandale for his help.
The End
The End
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XSKIER
Platinum Member
Glad to hear that you came to a quick resolution on your shaft. Also, nice to hear that by careful handling of your shaft, you were able to keep your tractor "un split". Nice tires!
mikerind
New member
Hey guys! I just finished up a rebuild on my JD2210 main driveshaft. I posted on another thread with pictures. The subject of the thread is ( JD2210 upper driveshaft service-grease).
On it I tell how I did the job, and what I did to be able to grease the U-Joints in the future. Plus where to buy your spiders much cheaper. Mike
On it I tell how I did the job, and what I did to be able to grease the U-Joints in the future. Plus where to buy your spiders much cheaper. Mike
