HELP!! 2210 bad vibratioins !!

[megotatractor]

2004 model 2210 with 705 hours; first noticed a "hard" intermittent vibration yesterday. It happened again today after mowing an hour and I first thought a blade was coming loose. Turned off the mower but the tractor was shaking hard under the seat! What is it and what's it going to cost me??? Seems consistant with the engine rpms. Tranny oil level is good, no other symptoms. ???

 

[XSKIER]

Your intermediate drive shaft is probably shot. There's likely no instructions in your owner's manual regarding periodic grease ing.

 

[ovrszd]

My shaft is not greaseable. But I agree with skier, that's probably the culprit. Hope so anyway. If not the shaft, then it's engine vibration and that's not gonna be pretty. I believe in the "KISS" principle and look for problems at the lowest level first.

 

[megotatractor]

I was going to elaborate on symptoms but I spent the last 3 hours wrestling a virus outta the dam computer!!!
The vibration started happening whenever I hit a thick spot in the grass or when turning sharply. After I eliminated the mower as the culprit it occurs to me that those instances when it was happening it was under load. I guess the vibrations been there for weeks but thought it was my imagination or the engine was running rough.
After my initial post and letting the tractor cool down for awhile I slid underneath, removed the mower earlier once I realized it was the tractor. and cannot hardly see that driveshaft! I can see a couple inches here and there. Got a glimpse of the rear u-joint, or the edge of it. Was able to get two fingers on the shaft and jiggle it a little. It does jiggle a little. then the only view of the front u-joint was a small opening above the starter and I can see but not touch that the u joint bearing has a shiny gap about 1/16 inch where there shouldn't be a gap. You guys may be right. But HOW in the world does one get at that shaft just to prove it's the shaft?? What would the dealer charge to fix something like that????? and HOW in the world is a guy supposed to lube that thing??????? (I know ive read some of this on these forums but I got the computer virus trying to google it so please give a link?)

 

[Wildbill34]

Mego,

I had the same problem and I replaced the u joiunt on the shaft and she has run like a dream ever since. Took a while to figure out what it was, but once I found out I had a bud help me and fixed it in a couple of hours with Kobota u-joint rather than spending the big money deere wanted for the shaft. We didn't even spint the tractor either to do it.

 

[Wildbill34]

I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
JD 2210 Tractor Vibration

From,
Wildbill34

 

[megotatractor]

Okay, we either spend $600.oo for the shaft and get the shaft OR rig it with Kubota bearings, am I reading that correctly? I dont suppose anyone knows if these happen to be the same u joints as on the mower deck??? What is the Kubota part #? And exactly what did you have to do to the tractor to replace this? ( i got under there in better light and I could actually see the fan wiggling as I jiggled the shaft! Pretty sure she's shot.) and looking it over it looks like a couple hours to take off the rops, fenders and platform??? to get at the bugger? I kinda shook my head when I removed the access plug on the left side of the console and spotted the grease zerk on the u joint and how in the world did they expect anyone to lube that? are the Kubota bearings the same as the deere bearings? would the grease zerk supply them with grease? Once I get at the shaft how does it come off the engine and tranny?

Oh I see the link you posted is the very same article I started reading when that virus shut me down earlier!
thanks!

 

[Wildbill34]

Here is the part number 37410-13722 Joint Kit from Kubota. I would suggest taking the rear u joint out first then remove the roll pins in the front. Replace the front first and reinstall the front then put the rear universal together in place and you won't have to split the tractor.

 

[megotatractor]

Thanks Bill, did you ever compare the driveshaft bearing to those in the mower deck shaft?
Gonna be ****, the HOT weather continues, sweat and motor oil (grunt grunt grunt!)!

 

[Wildbill34]

I never check into that. Might be an option, but when I had the deere dealer checking for them...they couldn't find any that would fit. He was the one to recommend Kubota.

 

[Wildbill34]

One thng for sure, you will become intimately familar with your tractor when you are done. Plus you get to clean out all those spaces you normally don't get to see.

 

[megotatractor]

how many hours do you have on those 'bota bearings so far?? Didn't really ever intend to get that intimate with her rear... but I have better use for the what, dealer charges $2000.oo??? Currently a 13 year old pickup with alignment and tune up issues, and a 10 year old car with a leaky ABS pump! ..and a slow outdated computer,,, etc. etc..

 

[megotatractor]

Well crap. First, John Deere part number for the ujoint "spider" is LVA803335. I spent over an hour taking the Deere apart, ROPS, fenders, floor. Wasn't too bad took just over an hour with help from an impact driver to spin off bolts quickly. Then with a good grip on the driveshaft in question now I'm not so sure what the problem is exactly or what to do. The dealer man is going to drop by some time this week to take a look. the ujoints don't seem all that bad, most of the jiggle seems to be in the spline. Maybe the joints just need some grease, but I can't see or get at the front knuckle. Dealer seems concerned that the 2210 gets fixed right. He says he has two orange tractors with major drivetrain issues and doesn't recommend the Bota bearings. I can't stomache the $2000 it is rumored to cost to fix this.
Got a good look at the lube zerk on the rear ujoint..... whatthe?... can't get a standard grease gun tip to the zerk, the joint knuckles are too close. Woulda been screwed even if I'd tried to maintain these joints.

 

[XSKIER]

Here's what I use on my driveshaft:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR6XE

The 1026R driveshaft is a little more accessible though. Also, the trans splines are long enough to slide the shaft back, drop the front, and slip the whole assembly out. However, I'm hoping the grease will be enough to prevent me from finding out how easy it could be to replace the driveshaft.

Good luck in your quest for parts and a successful repair.

 

[megotatractor]

Update; Deere tech confirmed it was a bad ujoint, the front one. Now all I gotta do is work like a ship in a bottle to get the fricken c-clip off the front spline in a space barely large enough for a tool to get into. I did happen to get the pto turned to a point I can see bits of metal sticking out of it. Got to run and get a bigger clip pliers now.

 

[megotatractor]

update; it only took 3 hours but finally got that dang clip out and removed the driveshaft. BOTH ends were half seized, they would only "bend" in one direction. Tapping out the bearings was not fun, either. Several came out with nothing but reddish dust inside. Asked the tech how they lube those joints.... they take the tractor apart!!!!!! Oh easy maintenance! Too hot tonight, will pop in the new JD bearings and begin reassembly tomorrow.

 

[megotatractor]

Here's what I use on my driveshaft:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR6XE

The 1026R driveshaft is a little more accessible though. Also, the trans splines are long enough to slide the shaft back, drop the front, and slip the whole assembly out. However, I'm hoping the grease will be enough to prevent me from finding out how easy it could be to replace the driveshaft.


Good luck in your quest for parts and a successful repair.

'Well, I don't know how the rumor got started that it is required to "split" the tractor to repair the drive shaft. Not true, you need merely to remove about 90% of the body work and do a "ship in a bottle" routine to remove a snap ring and pound a pin out of the front spline, then as you say the rear spline is long enough to slide er back and forth butting against various obstacles to guide the shaft out from under the steering valve. Easy!

 

[megotatractor]

Update; The patient is recovered and ready to go back to work. John Deere spiders (2) cost $39.oo each. Popped in the new u joint parts, pumped them as full of grease as I could, and reassembled the tractor in about 2 hours. Ran into minor delays with bent snap rings and broken plastic clips and such, Plus the trying to remember which bolts went where... now I know, to access the front ujoint remove the kick panel below the dash and a metal plate on the right side of the frame! The rear joint might be lubable by miracle from underneath... I will try to do so every year from now on. It runs so much smoother and quieter now. I would like to thank Gregg from Ag Power JD in Hollandale for his help.

The End

 

[XSKIER]

Glad to hear that you came to a quick resolution on your shaft. Also, nice to hear that by careful handling of your shaft, you were able to keep your tractor "un split". Nice tires!

 

[mikerind]

Hey guys! I just finished up a rebuild on my JD2210 main driveshaft. I posted on another thread with pictures. The subject of the thread is ( JD2210 upper driveshaft service-grease).
On it I tell how I did the job, and what I did to be able to grease the U-Joints in the future. Plus where to buy your spiders much cheaper. Mike