Three way Ridgid Pipe threader?

[milkman636]

Thanks, Jerry(and all the others that are sharing good info)

Yes these are NPT dies. To b honest I think Forgeblast is right, I may not even need to thread since I will map out the runs ahead of time and try and buy proper length threaded pipe. I like to be prepared and having the threader is most likely more for piece of mind....er...ah...any excuse to buy a tool:laughing:

Check all your store-cut threads too. If they make up too far they'll leak just the same as if you overcut them. No one is going to care more about my safety and doing things right than I will. I trust myself to cut better threads than the hardware store guy. After you learn when to stop so you don't get more than three full turns by hand, cutting pipe threads is an easy repeatable process.

NO matter who cuts the threads, put some good air pressure in the completed assembly and close your shut off valve. Don't be afraid to test the assembly at close to the rated working pressure of the lowest rated component. Then bubble all your joints and watch your pressure gauge. No bubbles and no presuure drop means you are good to go. I've done threaded black pipe for fuel oil lines that have passed 24 hr. standing pressure tests @100 psi with no drop.

After seeing your sawing and building handiwork, I think you'd take your time and be careful to get it right.

 

[JerryK]

Use good pipe dope on the threads and throw the teflon tape in the garbage can where it belongs. Seen more people mess stuff up, especially hydralics, with misuse of the teflon tape. [ Even me, and I'm usually pretty carefull ]

 

[TCJatko]

Concur you should use plastic gas pipe for any runs that are buried. Put a tracer wire in the trench to aid future location. Use pipe dope and pressure test before use; everything will be fine. I agree Artisan's post is inflammatory; it is grossly irresponsible to assign blame for any incident before it has been properly investigated.

 

[Rock knocker]

Some pressure drop, especially over 24 hours is OK, because varying temperature will cause the air to condense.

Remeber, PV always equals nRT

 

[forgeblast]

There is a special thread (yellow) for propane, For the majority of my runs (all but 3) blue blocker was used. (the other three were done by the propane company) I also would recommend (any excuse to buy a tool ) to buy a flare tool. Great for hooking up anything that requires tubing just remember to put the nut(cap) on the tube first.
To check for leaks, I just mix up a lot of dishsoap in a little bit of water and mix brush it on all my joints. It was exactly what the propane guys did.

 

[MotorSeven]

Some pressure drop, especially over 24 hours is OK, because varying temperature will cause the air to condense.

Remeber, PV always equals nRT

I understand the temperature part...but I had to look up the "PV=nRT". I have to admit, it is over my pea brained head:scratchchin:

Ideal gas law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[milkman636]

As someone mentioned before it takes a little while for everything to normalize after the initial fill. After that the temperature affect will be negligable and likely not visible on a guage. Scientists calculate temperature form absolute zero which is -460 F. If you fill your pipe and take your last pressure reading of the day at 80 degrees and then come back the next day and check it at 75, the temperatue difference from absolute zero is less than 1% in that equation.