footings

   / footings #1  

lovemytoys

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
253
Location
andes ,new york
Tractor
bx24
im a little confused i been price footing and foundations and every one come back with diff sizes.one 8x10 another 8x16 and last 16x20
i can't get ahold go the inspector the guy with 16x20 said i need an 8 inch foundation wall .for a garage?
 
   / footings #2  
I am not sure what you mean by 8x10 ect. Here in Va most footers are 18" or 2' wide and 6" thick and an 8" block or 6"crete foundation wall would be correct for most cases.
 
   / footings #3  
I am a little confused also. There are only two measurements to the footer itself. Width, and thickness. Like Ed, most around me are 18-24" wide and 6-8" deep. Do I dont understand what you mean by 16x20???

And as far as the 8" foundation wall for the garage, that is correct. On a conventional stick build, They will dig below frost, pour the footer, and then lay 5 or 6 courses of block on top of the footer. Then you attach the ledger board to the block wall and build up.

It might help if we knew some more details as to what you are building or working on.
 
   / footings #4  
Trench with rebar:

DSCN5143.JPG


DSCN5125.JPG


Footer poured, block stacked:

DSCN5171.JPG


DSCN5170.JPG


DSCN5174.JPG


Sticks up, and partially sheathed:

DSCN5248.JPG


Apron poured:

DSCN5258.JPG


Getting there:

DSCN5400.JPG


Done:

DSCN5992.JPG


DSCN8268.JPG





Is that more or less what you are trying to do?

Wrooster
 
   / footings #6  
Trench with rebar:

....
Is that more or less what you are trying to do?

Wrooster

Really nice looking shop:thumbsup:. What size is it and how deep are your footing?
 
   / footings #7  
What size is it and how deep are your footing?
Note: you can count the blocks in the foundation. Each CMU is 16"x8"x8". :)

Seriously, though, internally the workshop is 13'x17'. I would have preferred at least twice the size (really -- who *doesn't* need a bigger workshop?) but alas it was a "rehab" of an existing structure and it was more straightforward for several reasons to rebuild the same size.

The top of the footings are at minimum 24" down from the finished grade, code here for a dwelling. Overkill for a workshop, but if you are going to go through the trouble you might as well do it right.

See Section 5.6 and Figure A-1 (in Appendix A) of the PDF here:
Structural Design Loads for One- and Two-Family Dwellings | HUD USER
--> http://www.huduser.org/Publications/pdf/strdesign.pdf

Here is a bigger JPEG of the map in Appendix A:
http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/oftdc/1998/images/ICODA2008081817542104946.jpg
The air-freezing index is defined as cumulative degree days below 32ºF. It is used as a measure of the combined magnitude and duration of air temperature below freezing. The index was computed over a 12-month period (July - June) for each of the 3,044 stations used in the above analysis. Data from the 1951-80 period were fitted to a Weibull probability distribution to produce an estimate of the 100-year return period.
For SI: ºC = [(ºF.)-32]/1.8.
FIGURE 403.3(2) AIR-FREEZING INDEX(ºF.) AN ESTIMATE OF THE 100-YEAR RETURN PERIOD

Wrooster

DSCN6923.JPG


DSCN6936.JPG
 
   / footings #8  
Thats real nice wrooster, I love the double doors.
I lost a *lot* of brain cells on them... LoL.

One day my wife came home from work, and I had taken the day off to finish top-coating the doors. She came downstairs into the basement and said, "Do you have *any* idea what the house smells like?". I said, "No, not really -- but do we own any old Jimi Hendrix LP's because I could really go for something like that!"

Wrooster

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   / footings #9  
The building codes, although standardized, are subject to interpatation by the local inspectors. They can require more but NEVER less than the codes dictate that have been acepted by their city/county. The footing sizes are always determined by zone i.e. frost depth. Small shallow footings will heave when the ground freezes and thaws under them leading to structual failure.
If your project is in a area that will be inspected, first, go to the inspection office and ask for information or to speak to an inspector if possible. You will probably feel that they do not want to help but keep in mind, most towns and counties are having financial issues and the staff is overworked, understaffed, under paid and most of all- constantly dealing with citizens and contractors who want it their way and not according to code. After a while of constant verbal abuse, they devolop a attitude right off the bat. Be polite and don't argue unless you KNOW they are wrong, you may find them easy to work with.

If not in a inspected area, seek a licensed/insured (verify) contractor with a established business and references.

Another note, there are lots of con artist that want you to get permit in your name and them do all the work because they are not licensed. They will take your money up front, do substandard work, and leave you with 100% responsibility. NO LICENSE or INSURANCE, NO WORK!!!!

Only my humble opinion as a Licensed Contractor!
 

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