Losing pins off the back of the tractor

[joshuabardwell]

This is now the second time I have lost a cotter pin off the back of my tractor. The first time was during some rough bush-hogging. The cotter pin got pulled out and I lost the retention pin that holds one of my sway bars on. Now, I noticed that the cotter pin on the retention pin that holds my sway bar to my lift arm has been pulled, although thankfully, I have not lost the retention pin because it is flat on one side and inserted from the top. All of the pins I have lost are spring-type cotter pins. I am thinking I will replace them all with split-pin type, because it seems like they are nearly impossible to pull out accidentally. If I ever need to take apart my 3ph, the split-type will be a bit harder to pull out, but I don't anticipate taking apart my 3ph very often, and I'm darn tired of losing things off it.

 

[Willl]

Safety wire the pins closed or replace them with a bolt and nylock nut combo.

 

[brandoro]

Safety wire the pins closed or replace them with a bolt and nylock nut combo.

Bolt and nylock nut is what I have done the couple of places I have had pins pull out. Works well and not too hard to remove.

 

[pacerron]

This is now the second time I have lost a cotter pin off the back of my tractor. The first time was during some rough bush-hogging. The cotter pin got pulled out and I lost the retention pin that holds one of my lift arms on. Now, I noticed that the cotter pin on the retention pin that holds my sway bar to my lift arm has been pulled, although thankfully, I have not lost the retention pin because it is flat on one side and inserted from the top. All of the pins I have lost are spring-type cotter pins. I am thinking I will replace them all with split-pin type, because it seems like they are nearly impossible to pull out accidentally. If I ever need to take apart my 3ph, the split-type will be a bit harder to pull out, but I don't anticipate taking apart my 3ph very often, and I'm darn tired of losing things off it.

Split pins are normally driven on thru using a drift a little smaller than the hole.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Split pins are normally driven on thru using a drift a little smaller than the hole.

Really?! I have always just un-bent them. Well, you learn something new every day.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Split pins are normally driven on thru using a drift a little smaller than the hole.

I think you are speaking of a rolled steel pin and not a cotter pin. I'm not recalling the correct terminology of the spring clips used in 3 PH but I've never heard them called cotter pins. I guess there are two types used one being a pin with a circular spring that clips down on the pin to keep it fastened and the other is a pin that looks similar to a hairpin clip but more robust. These are not too popular today. I have never seen any one use a cotter pin on the 3 PH as they are usually soft steel and tend to bend rather easily. The best approach would be to use the spring clip and safety wire it shut on the points that you dont normally take off.

 

[pacerron]

Really?! I have always just un-bent them. Well, you learn something new every day.

You must be referring to a different type of pin, possibly a soft cotter key where you bend the tails to hold them in.
Cotter key/pins that get side pressure or something rotating against them often break.
I was referring to a split roll pin. Roll pins are extremely hard and strong. You drive them in and drive them out.
Sorry for my confusion.

 

[joshuabardwell]

These are the pins I'm referring to. I have heard both of these referred to as "cotter pins". The ones on the left are "spring-type" and the ones on the right are "split-type".

 

[RDrancher]

Switch over to lynch pins. Locking Lynch Pin, 6/16 in. dia. - 0268789 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[pacerron]

View attachment 278058

These are the pins I'm referring to. I have heard both of these referred to as "cotter pins". The ones on the left are "spring-type" and the ones on the right are "split-type".

The ones on the bottom left are normally called "hitch pin clips" They are used on the top link of attachment pins.
Using them on lower links or anywhere near the ground is asking to have them pulled out by weeds. They need to be sized for the pin they hold, and even then are very subject to being too loose. They get bent.
Not my favorite type of fastener....
Go to tractor supply.com and look at the various pins available under "hitch pins"
You will find what you need there.

 

[crankshaft21]

My tractor also has the hitch pin clips on top and bottom of the lift. What I do is push them all the way through, where the round part is and I haven`t lost any more of them. This method is simple and it works.

 

[Wesdor]

I second RDrancher.
Locking lynch pins are just about the only things I use

 

[joshuabardwell]

I second RDrancher.
Locking lynch pins are just about the only things I use

It's true, but for the price of 1 locking lynch pin, I can buy 100 split cotter pins. Meh. It's not a perfect comparison, because I only need about six locking lynch pins. More fundamentally, I already bought split cotter pins and put them in, so I now have to rationalize that was the best thing to do.

 

[meburdick]

It's true, but for the price of 1 locking lynch pin, I can buy 100 split cotter pins. Meh. It's not a perfect comparison, because I only need about six locking lynch pins. More fundamentally, I already bought split cotter pins and put them in, so I now have to rationalize that was the best thing to do.

I'll support your decision so you can feel better.

 

[jenkinsph]

It's true, but for the price of 1 locking lynch pin, I can buy 100 split cotter pins. Meh. It's not a perfect comparison, because I only need about six locking lynch pins. More fundamentally, I already bought split cotter pins and put them in, so I now have to rationalize that was the best thing to do.

Wait until something gets loose and bends up because you are pulling or pushing with only one side of the hitch. Sometimes to save money you have to spend it first. Now pry that wallet open and get a ten dollar bill out and buy a handfull of lynch pins in sizes for all your pins.:laughing:

 

[LastSTRAW]

Wait until something gets loose and bends up because you are pulling or pushing with only one side of the hitch. Sometimes to save money you have to spend it first. Now pry that wallet open and get a ten dollar bill out and buy a handfull of lynch pins in sizes for all your pins.:laughing:

Couldn't agree more. The time to stop and replace or even check while you are in the middle of a job justifies the cost. An unexpected trip to the store is another time waster I just can't afford during hay season. I bought more than I need and have them in all the tractor tool boxes.

 

[mikehaugen]

I just paid $0.79 for 2 lynch pins sized for the lower arms to the implement.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I agree with RDrancher the lynch pins are the way to go, I found them be accident and love them.:thumbsup:

 

[joshuabardwell]

Wait until something gets loose and bends up because you are pulling or pushing with only one side of the hitch. Sometimes to save money you have to spend it first. Now pry that wallet open and get a ten dollar bill out and buy a handfull of lynch pins in sizes for all your pins.:laughing:

All joking about money aside, I don't actually understand what you mean. The problem with the spring-type pins is obvious: weeds pull them out. But the split-type pins seem pretty secure to me. How are they going to come out?

 

[meburdick]

They'll still pull out.. They just require more force before they do. Also, the bent ends of the pins can get caught and "straightened", making them fall out.