Single bottom plow, breaking shear pins like it's my job

[Overtaxed]

I have a 16" Everything Attachments single bottom plow that I'm pulling through some rough stuff (clay, unbroken ground) and I can't keep a shear pin alive for more than a few runs through the field. My tractor is 60HP, 4WD (although I've been in 2WD trying to "spin" before I break it, doesn't work), about 8000 lbs (Kioti NX6010, 4WD, HST, loaded ag tires and FEL). I have a lot of other ground engaging gear, including a big box blade that will stop the tractor with the rippers down, no problem, but the plow, it seems to break the pin when I look at it wrong. Compounding matters, the rotation of the plow when the pin breaks is incredibly stiff, so, I have to beat it with a sledge to get it back into position. As you can imagine, breaking the pin is coupled by a string of cursing, because I know it's 10 minutes of pounding to get another stupid pin in.

A few questions; should I just go to a harder bolt? What's the downside; obviously the tractor can take the stress, the box blade, as I said before, hooks up the same way and will stop it dead if I dig in deep. So I'm not worried about the harder pin breaking the 3pt (but, maybe I should be?). Weld the plow up and just remove the "release" entirely? I have a subsoiler and potato plow without a pin and never have problems with them. Drill out the hole and put in a bigger bolt? New plow (hope this isn't the answer!).

Thanks for the help!

 

[LouNY]

The purpose of the shear bolt is to protect the plow.
Why only a 1 bottom on 60HP, 3 would be more appropriate for that HP.
If you increase the size or weld it solid you will tweak the plow frame.

 

[Overtaxed]

I have a single bottom because I use it to plant trees in rows, and I didn't want to turn more than a single row.

That's my fear, but looking at the EA plow line, the 2 bottom plow frame looks identical to the single bottom, and, obviously, will pull 2X as hard because of the additional blade in the ground. So I don't think the frame would be the problem, however, I do wonder if the blade and shank can take it. I'm honestly shocked at how little it takes to break, I've broken it without even hearing the engine lug, and I'm usually plowing at 1K RPMs and 1-1.5MPH. It's just really fragile, and, the plow is built like a tank, so I wonder if it's a "CYA" thing, it certainly seems like the construction could take a lot more abuse than it actually does given the trip on the plow.

 

[jeff9366]

KIOTI NX6010

Engine Model 3F183T
Engine Gross Power 60 hp (44.7 kW)
Rated Speed 2,600 rpm
No. of Cylinders 3
Fuel Type Diesel
Aspiration Turbo Charged
Displacement 111.4 cu. in. (1,826 cc)
Fuel Tank Capacity 14.8 U.S. gal. (56 L)
Transmission
Transmission Type Hydrostatic
Shuttle None
No. of Travel Speeds - Forward / Reverse 3 Range
Min. Travel Speed of Forward w/ Ag @ Engine rated speed 0 mph (0 km/h)
Max. Travel Speed of Forward w/ Ag @ Engine rated speed 18.26 mph (29.38 km/h)
Power Take-Off (PTO)
PTO Type Trans Independent
PTO Power 48.3 hp (36 kW)
Rear PTO Speeds (1st) 540 rpm
Mid PTO Speed 2,000 rpm (Optional)
Brakes and Clutch
Brakes Wet Multi Disc
Clutch None
Dimensions w/ AG Tire
Length w/ 3-point hitch 139.6 in. (3,547 mm)
Width 65.7 in. (1,669 mm)
Height from Top of ROPS 103.1 in. (2,618 mm)
Wheelbase 75.6 in. (1,920 mm)
Ground Clearance 15.7 in. (400 mm)
Front Tread Ag Tires - Min 53.3 in. (1,355 mm)
Rear Tread Ag Tires - Min 52.5 in. (1,324 mm)
Turning Radius w/ Brake 9.97 ft. (3.04 m)
Hydraulics
Pump Gear
Pump Capacity (Max. Flow Rate) 17.9 gpm (67.6 L/min)
3-Point Hitch
Standard Category Category I & II
Lift Capacity, 24" aft of hitch 3,177 lbs. (1,441 kg)
Control Type Position with Draft Control
Weight
Weight with Ag Tires 4,183 lbs. (1,897.4 kg)

 

[jeff9366]

1. Moldboard Plows are designed to be operated with the right front and right rear tires 8" deep (for a 16" plow) in a plow furrow. If you are scratching just one row I believe all four wheels must be on level ground. Four wheels on level ground will stress the plow in ways for which it was not designed. Plows are very sensitive to "geometry".

2. A 16" plow properly in the ground exerts almost twice the draft force resistance of a 12" plow.

3. NX6010 has Draft Control. When engaged Draft Control will automatically raise the plow when it encounters too much resistance, which in most situations would be underground boulders, rock ledges or really hard ground. When pulling the Moldboard Plow are you engaging Draft Control? Draft control will also protect your Potato Plow.
Directions on how to engage Draft Control will be in your Operator's Manual.
You may have to return to TBN for information to adjust Draft Control properly, as Draft Control interacts with Position Control.

4. Is your soil moist? Dry soil can have four times the draft force resistance of moist soil.

5. Is the ETA plow for a Category I or Category II Three Point Hitch?
If you are using a Category I plow are the pins correctly bushed? If there is any play at the draw pins, the load on your shear bolt will surge periodically.

If you are using a Category I plow I suspect that is part of your problem. A Cat I plow will be designed around 12" of ground clearance. Your tractor has 15.7" of ground clearance. Plows are very sensitive to "geometry".

6. I suggest lubing your shear bolts with Anti-Seize compound.

7. I would not use a harder shear bolt without discussing with Mike or Travis at ETA, after answering above questions. It takes just a tiny bend of the moldboard to put it out of alignment with the plow frame, which will permanently degrade the plow. Your heavy tractor has the potential to bend the plow.


I have an ETA 12" single bottom plow with ETA's smallest frame size, but full size moldboard. With ETA plow I turn soil behind a Kubota subcompact BX tractor. This reduced size frame plow is designed for subcompact tractors. Works fine. I have several other ETA implements which have been satisfactory. ETA is a good supplier.


Consider a Bucket Spade for planting small trees.
MORE: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/328798-bucket-spade-today-fel-bucket.html?highlight=

 

[LouNY]

I have a single bottom because I use it to plant trees in rows, and I didn't want to turn more than a single row.

That's my fear, but looking at the EA plow line, the 2 bottom plow frame looks identical to the single bottom, and, obviously, will pull 2X as hard because of the additional blade in the ground. So I don't think the frame would be the problem, however, I do wonder if the blade and shank can take it. I'm honestly shocked at how little it takes to break, I've broken it without even hearing the engine lug, and I'm usually plowing at 1K RPMs and 1-1.5MPH. It's just really fragile, and, the plow is built like a tank, so I wonder if it's a "CYA" thing, it certainly seems like the construction could take a lot more abuse than it actually does given the trip on the plow.

Or try lengthening the right side lift arm and shortening the right side which should throw the plow into a vertical cutting plane and check the level of the plow and adjust your toplink to be more level when the plow is in the ground. with larger plows there are usually adjustment to allow a tractor to remain out of the furrow.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Perhaps get some very strong springs and make an "over-center" trip, so you can just back up and lift it when it sticks.

 

[jeff9366]

My tractor is Kioti NX6010 60HP, 4WD, although I've been operating in 2WD trying to "spin" before I break the plow shear bolt.

I have a subsoiler and potato plow without a pin and never have problems with them.

Subsoiler and Potato Plow are designed to be operated with all four tractor wheels on level ground.

 

[jeff9366]

Perhaps get some very strong springs and make an "over-center" trip, so you can just back up and lift it when it sticks.

Trips involved considerable force. On trip plows the spring is enclosed to reduce the danger to human flesh.

OP needs to learn how to plow. He may need a different implement for his task. A Category II Potato Plow or a Bucket Spade will likely serve better than a Moldboard Plow operated in ignorance.

( We all start in ignorance. But it is better to seek guidance before using a new implement and certainly before replacing the third shear bolt and before beating the plow frame with a sledge. )

 

[Overtaxed]

So, today's update. Went out, broke 2 pins, got pissed and went to the barn, welded it up. Stay tuned for the results.

So, to answer the questions, it's a cat 1 plow, and the NX6010 has cat 2 pins, but it is correctly bushed down.

Yes, I'm using draft control, and it works great pulling the plow up when I hit something, but it's just not fast enough, when I hit something hard at any speed above 1MPH, the pin shears before the draft control can react and reduce the pressure on the plow.

The soil is in good shape for me right now, but it's always hard to work, a lot of clay; but this is as good as it gets.

So, what happened when I welded it? Well, I'm not dead, so the tractor didn't flip over, so at least there's that. I put 2 welds on it, both small beads (and very ugly, because I suck at welding), with the thought that if the pressure was really extreme, perhaps the weld would break before something else. Anyway, the results were incredible. I feel like I could throw soil 10' now, it just shreds through the soil, I'm able to plow at 4-5MPH easily now, and could probably go faster if I was more comfortable. It's 1000% better, I just can't believe how much faster it is now and how much harder it pulls. With the pin, I would just barely feel resistance (at 1 MPH) and the pin would break. Now, I can feel it dig and work back there, it's just a totally different implement. I finished plowing about 2ac this morning and looking at it, nothing appears to be bent or broken on either the plow or the tractor. I figured the tractor would be OK, I have implements that will "dead stop" the tractor hitting something off the 3pt, so I can't see why the plow would put more force it than my 72" box blade, for example. But I kind of expected something to break on the plow, not a scratch on it. If I had to estimate, I'd guess I'm putting 2-3X the force on it that I did before (with 1X being where the pin would break). It still doesn't pull close to as hard as the blade with rippers down though, that thing you can really feel.

So, my conclusion from all this; the shear setup on the EA 16" plow is protective far before the limits of the implement. The plow is capable of a lot more than that shear pin can take, it's shearing way before something bends; which, I guess, it what I thought was the case, my cheepo subsoiler pulled much harder than the plow and didn't break, so I assumed and expected that the EA plow, which weighs about 3X as much as the subsoiler (and is built much better) wouldn't break. And, so far, I'm right. If it does break, I guess I'll be in the market for a trip plow, because I'm not playing this shear pin game again, it's a royal PITA with a plow, especially in hard soil.

Thanks for the advice/suggestions, I did write to EA and ask them; so I'll be sure to update with what their response is. Perhaps they would have told me to go a higher grade bolt? Which I thought about, but I had the welder and I was at the end of my rope changing pins, I was either going to break the plow after welding it or throw it into a ditch and buy something else.