4310 Ehydro no move...AGAIN...replaced controller...AGAIN

[RjPilot]

Here's the problem. This 4310 lives its' life in my basement, right next to a 1990 345 hydro. It cuts the same lawn
that the 345 cut for 9 years ( and still does when the 4310 is broken ). About 2 weeks ago the 4310 started the
" won't move " some times. When it does this it flashes continuously. After charging the battery some, it started
and moved normally, but would stop occasionally and refuse to move...start flashing non-stop again.

After sitting for a while it would decide if it would move again. I checked for loose wire connectors around the hydro
pedals...no luck. Replaced the 8 year old battery...no luck. Finally called the dealer and had them come get it.

They replaced the Ehydro controller...again. This is the second replacement controller...third controller for this tractor
in it's sheltered 275 hr service life. No one at the dealer has any idea WHY this tractor keeps eating controllers.
This is totally unacceptable performance for a $25000 glorified lawn mower. My 345 hydro just keeps on going, cutting
the same lawn with NO hydro problems. The 4310 has had regular preventative maintenance, with fluids and filters changed
yearly, with Deere parts.

Here's the thread from my last go 'round with the same problem....http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/171131-4310-ehydro-doesnt-move-checked.html

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here ? The basement where it is kept is NOT overly humid...I have
a dehumidifier that runs all summer and discharges into my plumbing stack. If I don't get an explanation and some help
paying this latest repair bill from Deere, this thing is getting sold, and I'm changing colors. All I want is a tractor that is
at least as competent at mowing my lawn as a 18hp 15 year old lawn mower.

HELP.... Please...what's wrong here ?

 

[ccsial]

Hard to say what's wrong. But, being in the electronic business I have come to hate connectors. I have seen control modules replaced and appear to solve a problem when it was just a poor connection. Next time it fails, unplug the module and plug it back in. If it starts to work you can be fairly sure you're dealing with a flakey connector.

 

[dfkrug]

Hard to say what's wrong. But, being in the electronic business I have
come to hate connectors. I have seen control modules replaced and appear to solve a problem
when it was just a poor connection.

I agree that connectors are a significant problem area, esp on tractors. I have
cleaned lots of dirt out of the connectors on each of the many project tractors
I have fixed. The spade style and bullet style both get corroded quite easily, too.

Deere's fuse/relay panel also has little shelter from the elements. Every one
of the fuses and relays on my current 4300 was corroded.

I really wonder if the OP's dealer tested the controller at all, or just threw
a new part at it. These control boxes are not known to be flakey, but they
ARE known to be expensive.

 

[jenkinsph]

Check your ground strap from the computer to frame to make sure it has a good clean connection.

 

[mfreund]

Check your ground strap from the computer to frame to make sure it has a good clean connection.

I would be surprised if it was 2 bad controllers.

 

[cottermac]

When I work at the dealer I worked on many 10 series cut's and out of maybe 20 I worked on I only remember replacing 1 controller. I agree that the dealer might just be throwing parts at it and hoping for fix. Hopefully you will find a fix for it, they are really good tractors to own.

 

[Red Horse]

Where is the computer? (4720 cab) thx

 

[jenkinsph]

Where is the computer? (4720 cab) thx

Underneath the cab, look for a box about 7"x10" with harnesses plugged into it.

 

[jd110]

When the light on the fender flashes, it is actually flashing a trouble code. Count the short and long flashes to determine the code. That will point you in the right direction where the problem is. We have sold literally hundreds of these since they have been made, and we have replaced only 2 controllers in all that time. Vast majority of the time, a forward or reverse sensor needs to be calibrated when they won't move. Most other times, a bad connection, loose or broken wire or a bad sensor is at fault.

 

[Red Horse]

10-4-thx