4310 Ehydro no move...AGAIN...replaced controller...AGAIN

[RjPilot]

Here's the problem. This 4310 lives its' life in my basement, right next to a 1990 345 hydro. It cuts the same lawn
that the 345 cut for 9 years ( and still does when the 4310 is broken ). About 2 weeks ago the 4310 started the
" won't move " some times. When it does this it flashes continuously. After charging the battery some, it started
and moved normally, but would stop occasionally and refuse to move...start flashing non-stop again.

After sitting for a while it would decide if it would move again. I checked for loose wire connectors around the hydro
pedals...no luck. Replaced the 8 year old battery...no luck. Finally called the dealer and had them come get it.

They replaced the Ehydro controller...again. This is the second replacement controller...third controller for this tractor
in it's sheltered 275 hr service life. No one at the dealer has any idea WHY this tractor keeps eating controllers.
This is totally unacceptable performance for a $25000 glorified lawn mower. My 345 hydro just keeps on going, cutting
the same lawn with NO hydro problems. The 4310 has had regular preventative maintenance, with fluids and filters changed
yearly, with Deere parts.

Here's the thread from my last go 'round with the same problem....http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/171131-4310-ehydro-doesnt-move-checked.html

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here ? The basement where it is kept is NOT overly humid...I have
a dehumidifier that runs all summer and discharges into my plumbing stack. If I don't get an explanation and some help
paying this latest repair bill from Deere, this thing is getting sold, and I'm changing colors. All I want is a tractor that is
at least as competent at mowing my lawn as a 18hp 15 year old lawn mower.

HELP.... Please...what's wrong here ?

 

[ccsial]

Hard to say what's wrong. But, being in the electronic business I have come to hate connectors. I have seen control modules replaced and appear to solve a problem when it was just a poor connection. Next time it fails, unplug the module and plug it back in. If it starts to work you can be fairly sure you're dealing with a flakey connector.

 

[dfkrug]

Hard to say what's wrong. But, being in the electronic business I have
come to hate connectors. I have seen control modules replaced and appear to solve a problem
when it was just a poor connection.

I agree that connectors are a significant problem area, esp on tractors. I have
cleaned lots of dirt out of the connectors on each of the many project tractors
I have fixed. The spade style and bullet style both get corroded quite easily, too.

Deere's fuse/relay panel also has little shelter from the elements. Every one
of the fuses and relays on my current 4300 was corroded.

I really wonder if the OP's dealer tested the controller at all, or just threw
a new part at it. These control boxes are not known to be flakey, but they
ARE known to be expensive.

 

[jenkinsph]

Check your ground strap from the computer to frame to make sure it has a good clean connection.

 

[mfreund]

Check your ground strap from the computer to frame to make sure it has a good clean connection.

I would be surprised if it was 2 bad controllers.

 

[cottermac]

When I work at the dealer I worked on many 10 series cut's and out of maybe 20 I worked on I only remember replacing 1 controller. I agree that the dealer might just be throwing parts at it and hoping for fix. Hopefully you will find a fix for it, they are really good tractors to own.

 

[Red Horse]

Where is the computer? (4720 cab) thx

 

[jenkinsph]

Where is the computer? (4720 cab) thx

Underneath the cab, look for a box about 7"x10" with harnesses plugged into it.

 

[jd110]

When the light on the fender flashes, it is actually flashing a trouble code. Count the short and long flashes to determine the code. That will point you in the right direction where the problem is. We have sold literally hundreds of these since they have been made, and we have replaced only 2 controllers in all that time. Vast majority of the time, a forward or reverse sensor needs to be calibrated when they won't move. Most other times, a bad connection, loose or broken wire or a bad sensor is at fault.

 

[Red Horse]

10-4-thx

 

[mfreund]

When the light on the fender flashes, it is actually flashing a trouble code. Count the short and long flashes to determine the code. That will point you in the right direction where the problem is. We have sold literally hundreds of these since they have been made, and we have replaced only 2 controllers in all that time. Vast majority of the time, a forward or reverse sensor needs to be calibrated when they won't move. Most other times, a bad connection, loose or broken wire or a bad sensor is at fault.

x2!!!

 

[murphy1244]

I agree with Steve, Bad ground in there. I would also use a braided ground strap if none is being used. Hard to chase a gremlin in the machine. Good Hunting!!

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Sounds to me as if letting the battery go down completely might have something to do with it. I think the dealer is "throwing" parts at it. Can't exactly blame them. If it is the connectors and they hook up a new one and it works, its easy to think the old one is bad.

 

[Zebrafive]

Clean the connectors. Add a little dielectric grease. Clean all grounds, make sure they are tight. Clean the battery cables. I agree a low battery will cause electrical problems that go away when a fully charged battery is used.

 

[Beechboy]

I own a 2010 JD 3520 with Ehydro, and I am very disappointed only 500hrs on the machine . I have the same issues, the tractor will go into gear when ever it feels like it. One day I was clearing some dirt over a bank at my farm. As I approached the edge of the bank , I dumped the load, selected reverse, accelerated and just about drove forward off the bank even thou I verified that the tractor was selected to reverse . Any idea's

Regards Curtis

 

[RjPilot]

Thanks for all the help folks...I was also thinking either a loose wire or bad connection. A computer
usually either works, or doesn't work. This thing would work part of time and not at others. I pulled
it apart to get at the controller prior to having the dealer pick it up...I smeared dielectric grease on
the connectors, but I didn't get a look at the ground strap...I'll check it out.

I highly suspect that the dealer is just throwing parts at it, instead of listening to the symptoms and
troubleshooting. This being the THIRD controller, tells me either deere has a big QC problem on their
controllers or the dealer isn't finding the REAL problem. I have called the dealers maintenance
manager and asked to have a Deere regional rep get in touch with me regarding this problem, since
either way it's a black eye to Deere.

The tractor still had the problem after I replaced the battery...with a John Deere battery from the
same dealer.

Anyone had any luck getting Deere to help with the cost of replacing these kind of parts ? I know
it's out of warranty, but this this tractor is kept inside a climate controlled space, and only mows
grass, and a little light loader work.

Mike

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I don't believe I've read anywhere else about a controller being replaced. Only loose wires underneath by the pedals. Need to make sure my battery never goes dead.

Most people put the Optima gel batterys in the 4310's. The stock batterys leak a bit of acid when jarred by a stiff ride and it can rust out your front metal components in the battery area.

I'm on my 2nd Optima and my tractor is a 2002 model. The 1st battery got changed when I noticed the above condition when it was about 2-3 years old.

 

[RjPilot]

Well, folks you're not going to believe this but the controller on THIS 4310 just went out again....almost EXACTLY a year from the last one. No trouble codes flash, in fact,
the trouble light never illuminates when you turn the key to the on position. Checked the fuses...all fine, checked the connections, no problems. I am at a loss...this thing
is just a lemon or it hates me !!

 

[murphy1244]

Out of all the posts you got , What did you do besides the controller?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Well, folks you're not going to believe this but the controller on THIS 4310 just went out again....almost EXACTLY a year from the last one. No trouble codes flash, in fact,
the trouble light never illuminates when you turn the key to the on position. Checked the fuses...all fine, checked the connections, no problems. I am at a loss...this thing
is just a lemon or it hates me !!

As rare as controller replacements have been, I have to think your problem is elsewhere. It's like lightning striking the same person more than once. I know, there are very rare instances of this, but I still think your problem is elsewhere. Pinched wire, heat builds resistance, something. I would be replacing every wire that has any type of kink or anomaly in the drive pedal servos all the way to the controller.