Finally got around to checking the rim bolts on my P 7010

Gary Fowler · Sep 1, 2012

'the fact that it broke the mounting bracket when using the drawbar with a 3/8" chain and didnt hurt the chain shows a weak connection. Even though I was in 4 WD and all 4 unloaded tires spinning it shouldnt have broke even when the tractor hopped up and down before I could clutch it. That should be the strongest pull point on the tractor. It has this massive drawbar but is held by a piece of cast steel affixed with 2 each 10.8 grade bolts. I dont know the diameter offhand but the socket that fits them is 26mm so I am guessing about 19mm bolt diameter.

vwnotrunning · Sep 16, 2012

I had my LS in for some warranty work on the loader valve. It was the second time in, first they said they found nothing wrong - but I could duplicate the issue. Milling around and bullshirting with the mechanic. He was working on a similar LS to mine. Scattered all over, trying to get the broken loader mount bolts out, casting welded, tapping threads. This got me to check mine as soon as I got it home. Several needed to be tightened to meet torque. Only one was significantly loose. Be sure to check them! I would have hated for that to be my tractor being worked on!!

Guesseral · Sep 17, 2012

When you guts are testing and torking down these loader bolts why don't you take them out and put some lock-tite on them?

joshuabardwell · Sep 17, 2012

Guesseral said:
When you guts are testing and torking down these loader bolts why don't you take them out and put some lock-tite on them?

Laziness.

Guesseral · Sep 18, 2012

joshuabardwell said:
Laziness.

Now that's funny! :laughing:

Gary Fowler · Sep 18, 2012

Well in my case, the one that was very loose is so far up behind the FEL support bracket and fuel tank that I could barely get my wrench in to it. I dont know if I could get my hand in there to put the bolt in without removing the fuel tank and then again laziness might be part of the issue. I guess a 5 minute check every 50 hours beats several hours of work removing and reinstalling the bolts. The issue being that I am not sure they were properly tightened to start with rather than them backing out. Now that I know they are as tight as I could get them with a 3/4" drive ratchet and socket, if they get loose again, the Loctite might be the answer. Now the one behind the fuel tank and FEL bracket, if and when I replace the fuel tank with the new one, that would be a good time to Loctite those and tighten H*** out of them.

joemd11 · Sep 18, 2012

Anyone know what the proper torque is on the wheel bolts on an R3039? Asked the dealer a while back but he couldn't find it in his manual. Thanks.

rwork · Sep 18, 2012

joemd11 said:
Anyone know what the proper torque is on the wheel bolts on an R3039? Asked the dealer a while back but he couldn't find it in his manual. Thanks.

I was wondering about that one myself, Joe. No mention of wheel torque in the manual.

joshuabardwell · Sep 18, 2012

I don't have the same tractor, but I'm in the ballpark. Mine are 160 ft-lb for the rears, 62 for the front bolts, and 50 for the front nuts.

joemd11 · Sep 20, 2012

joshuabardwell said:
I don't have the same tractor, but I'm in the ballpark. Mine are 160 ft-lb for the rears, 62 for the front bolts, and 50 for the front nuts.

Thanks for the info. I will try those numbers.