Could have been a bad situation.... Bulldog coupler torn.

dstig1 · Sep 18, 2012

That looks more like a fracture in the lower section and then a ductile tear up top. Close-ups would help.

two_bit_score · Sep 19, 2012

CCOUGHRAN1 said:
This is on a 2009 model trailer...

View attachment 281185

I was told by a friend in the trailer business that he sees this often, and they fix it by welding some flat strap perpendicular to the break... I will be grinding out the old coupler, and welding in a new one.

That's why they sell replacements. And, it's why you have to keep an eye on things.

CCOUGHRAN1 · Sep 19, 2012

JDgreen227 said:
May be a stupid question, but how did you notice the separation? If you were doing a routine walk around of your tow rig like we are all supposed to do, good for you. Or possibly you noticed some flexing that was a new symptom? Or did you notice the tear when you were unhitching?
Regardless of how you found the damage, thank you for sharing the picture and your experience.

I don't exactly do a walkaround pre-trip inspection, however while I am on the forklift loading the trailer for each trip, I take note of the tires, break way, etc.

Highbeam · Sep 19, 2012

Both sides failed?

CCOUGHRAN1 · Sep 20, 2012

two_bit_score said:
That's why they sell replacements. And, it's why you have to keep an eye on things.

That's an interesting take on things... This will be the first time I have ever replaced a coupler on a trailer that I can think of. I've never considered that they sell them as replacement items, always assumed when someone was buying a coupler, that it was for new construction. The only time I have ever replaced a coupler prior to this one, was to change from a Fulton style 2" to a Bulldog 2-5/16.

CCOUGHRAN1 · Sep 20, 2012

Highbeam said:
Both sides failed?

The passenger side failed, but there is now a distorted area on the driver's side, I would assume from it now bearing twice the load.

I tried to grind the old coupler out and keep it all intact, but after about 15 minutes with the grinder, I pulled out the torch and cut it out.

CCOUGHRAN1 · Sep 20, 2012

What I have learned while working on this issue is that there's a lot more flex in a 6" channel iron tongue than I ever would have imagined.

When I cut and ground the old coupler out, I used a small pry bar to move some steel. The channel would deflect vertically an inch or better, between the driver and passenger tongue channel.

To make the tongue more solid, we are welding in some steel in front of the two channels, and basically boxing in the tongue. This should take some of the twisting and binding out of the coupler, where it transitions from the hitch to the a-frame.

We are also welding in a 2" x 3.5" x 1/4" gusset in the unsupported area of the coupler, as noted in the pic.