New PTO wood splitter......problems with dead heading the tractors pump....

[MotorSeven]

Sorry guys, this is confusing for my pea brain. I understand that each remote lever has two positions plus a neutral, but neither rear remote lever is marked with anything. I also understand that locked fully in each direction changes the flow direction or to accomplish the same thing, reverse the QC's. What I don't understand is that the splitter will operate with the remote lever locked in either direction(one has to be sending flow the "wrong way" right?) It will not work when the lever is in the neutral position which is correct.

 

[murphy1244]

Sorry guys, this is confusing for my pea brain. I understand that each remote lever has two positions plus a neutral, but neither rear remote lever is marked with anything. I also understand that locked fully in each direction changes the flow direction or to accomplish the same thing, reverse the QC's. What I don't understand is that the splitter will operate with the remote lever locked in either direction(one has to be sending flow the "wrong way" right?) It will not work when the lever is in the neutral position which is correct.

Try this, Run one hose to your QC and the other to your trans fill port. That is the way my BH is hooked up. Your remotes should be marked both at the controls and in the rear at the QCs. Marked A,B, and C,D if you have both.

 

[MotorSeven]

Boy, I feel stupid....I double checked everything & I had it plumbed right. When I thought it was dead heading I could not raise the 3 point while the remote was in detent. Turns out when I took it out of detent everything works fine. At one point or another I also must have had the flow wrong since the hoses did heat up. I ran it today for 10 min and had zero problems.

Also, I was reading the A/B/C/D label as part of the FEL...y'all were RIGHT, that label is for the remotes. In the rear the big sticker on the right that explains the remote hook up's is all rubbed off, so I actually drug out the Owners Manual...yep right there in black and white:ashamed:

The end of stroke kick out on the splitter still will not engage(not sure why), so I will have to make sure I don't let it run all the way and stop at the end of the stroke. This will dead head the pump because it will put the tractor's over pressure valve into constant action.

Thanks for all the help....for some reason I keep muttering this to myself:
http://www.joblo.com/audiofiles1/mp3/freakingidiot.mp3

 

[murphy1244]

Boy, I feel stupid....I double checked everything & I had it plumbed right. When I thought it was dead heading I could not raise the 3 point while the remote was in detent. Turns out when I took it out of detent everything works fine. At one point or another I also must have had the flow wrong since the hoses did heat up. I ran it today for 10 min and had zero problems.

Also, I was reading the A/B/C/D label as part of the FEL...y'all were RIGHT, that label is for the remotes. In the rear the big sticker on the right that explains the remote hook up's is all rubbed off, so I actually drug out the Owners Manual...yep right there in black and white:ashamed:

The end of stroke kick out on the splitter still will not engage(not sure why), so I will have to make sure I don't let it run all the way and stop at the end of the stroke. This will dead head the pump because it will put the tractor's over pressure valve into constant action.

Thanks for all the help....for some reason I keep muttering this to myself:
http://www.joblo.com/audiofiles1/mp3/freakingidiot.mp3

Now we need to figure that out so you need JJ for this so post a new thread

 

[Gil Case]

There should be an adjustment on the splitter to set the pressure at which the "end of stroke kick out" will trip. If all the plumbing is right, then you either need to adjust the "kick out" pressure, or get a new valve. This thing is new isn't it? under warranty?

 

[MotorSeven]

Gil, it's brand new....I'll take a look at the valve.

 

[MotorSeven]

This might be a dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway. A hydraulic ram operates because the fluid flows in both directions, so why does the valve driving it need flow coming into it from one direction? Does the valve not reverse the flow when you pull the lever? It just seems that the splitter valve would just work backwards if the flow was reversed....right? Ok, that's 3 questions......fire away:anyone:

 

[J_J]

When you move the lever, you are shifting the spool to let fluid flow out a work port to cause a cyl to move.

When you reverse the lever, you cause the fluid to flow out the other work port.

If you install a pressure hose to the return port, you will probably damage the o-rings/seals, and the relief valve will be on the wrong side of the work port, and some strange things may happen.

The return port or OUT port should not have more that about 300 to 500 psi .

I am also not sure about the two way splitter valve. Logically with a two way splitter valve, you would want to stop the splitter at the end of the stroke, so you could load up another log.

What is the brand name and model number of your splitter valve.

I haven't use one of the two way splitters yet.

You tell us how it is supposed to work, once the flow connected correctly.

 

[J_J]

Update number 1

That valve used on the two way log splitter is not a normal log splitter valve.

It is a made by Brand, and is a four way three position valve with no detent, and no kick out. Relief set at about 3000 psi.

So that answers the question about auto return, and kick out to neutral. It is spring centered to neutral.

You have to hold the lever until the end of stroke, both extended and retract.

It is most likely this valve.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200416981_200416981

 

[Gil Case]

JJ has the answer, we are all thinking of one way splitters and one way rams, this is a two way splitter and there is no auto return function, so there is no detent at either end. Therefore if this splitter is acting normally it should be an open valve when the spring loaded lever returns to center. Also it will dead head if the lever is held closed when the end of travel is reached. It should operate no matter which way it is plumbed, it will just go the opposite way that you push the lever. Ideally if you push the lever to the right you want the splitter to move to the right not to the left. The dead heading originally mentioned was from the tractor remote, not the splitter.