3-point Backhoe - Reinforcing Tractor Connection

[rbargeron]

One of my side projects is helping a friend put 3-point Woods 750 on a Kubota L3130. The backhoe does not have a subframe (I know, I know) but it has a quite robust set of top link bars for the high-point connection. The top bracket on the tractor is not very rugged looking so I'm thinking of adding a couple flat bars - (thicker & wider than those on the photo markup) running from the ROPS brackets out to the center link. The tractor gets generally light use - as will the backhoe - but it seems this would help it be stronger. Comments welcome.
Hoping dfkrug will chime in.....

 

[Opti-Mist]

Well, I've been running that backhoe on 3-point compact tractors with no modifications for some 15+ years with absolutely no issues. It had dug out more than its share of oak stumps and other tough work. I'm not a pro but I've run backhoes for a good many years. If you don't abuse it and work within its capabilities it will not have an adverse effect on the tractor. If used as you say there is no need to make any modifications.

 

[dfkrug]

Hoping dfkrug will chime in.....

Got your PMs, Dick. I think what you describe can add some strength....were you
going to weld the center (toplink) connection, and make a bolted connection
for the ROPS bracket?

Also consider that you can use the drawbar for additional support. The drawbar
bracket is quite strong and can take a lot of vertical load.

 

[Ductape]

Kubota sells an HD top link bracket for some of their tractors (possibly just the B series). Usually consists of a couple brackets that just catch more of the bolts in the top cover..... would this be possible? If not, I would think anything you can do to stiffen things up could only help.

 

[Luremaker]

Taken from another members post. Look at how he replaced the toplink.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/210207-home-brew-nardi-backhoe-kubota.html

 

[Luremaker]

Kubota sells an HD top link bracket for some of their tractors (possibly just the B series). Usually consists of a couple brackets that just catch more of the bolts in the top cover..... would this be possible? If not, I would think anything you can do to stiffen things up could only help.

Last year when I purchased my used 3pth backhoe I checked with the dealer and Kubota did not have a reinforced toplink bracket for any of the GL series.

 

[Grandad4]

I have never forgotten that blown-out rear end on an L4610 just like mine that you posted years ago. If you are thinking of keeping the existing top link setup and supplementing it with the additional connection to the ROPS brackets, you might also drop the top link hookup into the lowest of the 3 holes instead of the highest one. Having the toplink loading applied nearer to the vertical center of the rear axle instead of higher up should help limit how much force was concentrated at the top.

You wouldn't be able to raise/lower the 3pt mechanism, which should not be an issue with a backhoe.

 

[rbargeron]

...... you might also drop the top link hookup into the lowest of the 3 holes instead of the highest one.......

Hank - the top link is now down in the center hole, and the BH is 3" closer-in by moving the bottom pins. Dave has me thinking about tying into the drawbar to reduce the rattle. Thanks to Steve, Opti-Mist and Ductape too. I'm getting a lot of good ideas from all - TBN is the best!

 

[rbargeron]

....were you going to weld the center (toplink) connection, and make a bolted connection for the ROPS bracket?....Also consider that you can use the drawbar for additional support. The drawbar bracket is quite strong and can take a lot of vertical load.

To keep backhoe attachment and removal easy, I'm thinking bolted joints for the added links instead of welded. To make the links, my thought is to raise the 3ph slightly to take up most of the pin rattle - and then mark/drill the holes in the added links. That should cut down on the operating play. It won't be as tight as a full sub frame, but it should be decent.

 

[Verticaltrx]

As Ductape mentioned Kubota does/did sell a heavy duty toplink bracket for the B-series and standard L series (maybe the older GL's too, IDK). I doubt you'd find one to fit that tractor, but some searching on TBN should pull up a few pics Kubota's solution to this problem. Looks like an easy bracket to make and wouldn't interfere with any other functions.

 

[kneedeep]

Taken from another members post. Look at how he replaced the toplink.

That looks like a homemade connection as the lift arms are not connected to the BH

 

[Luremaker]

That looks like a homemade connection as the lift arms are not connected to the BH

That photo was taken from another member's custom subframe post.

 

[Soundguy]

i put a woods 6500 on an old ford 850

I built my own 'subframe' which was rally more of bracing than a full frame.

I used axle /fender/rops mount location for some lower tube arms that braced the 3pt lower arms and mounted rigidly to the hoe.

for the toplink connection, I built a 'cage' that grabbed many of the bolts on the tractors top section, and some of the top bolts of the axle trumpets and reinforced the toplink connection, so the rocker was still in place.. but the cage kept the hoe from pressing on the rocker.. it was more or less pressing on the cage.

i've done general digging with her, including SMALL stumping. IE.. ripping out a hedgerow along a fence line, and digging up old drainage tile.. etc.

no issues so far on that old 1955 tractor..

 

[DaveinCT]

I have a Woods 750 3PH backhoe on a MF1020 and have had no rattling issues. I noticed, however, in your pic that there could be some play in the attachment to the 3PH arms. I have large washers on either side of the two pins, so there is no lateral play. I have removed a number of stumps, dug ditches, holes, etc. with no problems.
OT. Also, to remove/install the BH unit, I built a T-shaped dolly from 2X8's. At the ends are ($7 ea. on sale) 1,000 lb limit dollys from Harbor Freight. I also attached vertical boards at each "corner" and mounted trailer hitch crank operated jacks ($20 ea. on sale at Northern Tool), so that I can raise/lower any corner. The "bucket end" (when crank lowered/raised) takes the pressure off the top link bar. After removal, I just wheel it in the corner of the garage!

 

[vwnotrunning]

Show us some pics of you t-shaped dolly.

Thanks

 

[DaveinCT]

here are a few pics

 

[slowzuki]

The L10 reinforcement bracket.

 

[rasorbackq]

My 3 point BH is a Wallenstein. They use an adjustable link rod from the top link down to at Draw bar.
The only slop I have is in the connection to the tractor from the top link (flat bar) 1/2 '" in a 1 3/4 opening. I did cut some slots is 3/8 flat stock to use as spacers.
They are forever falling out .