Chains -where to put them

tdmdkubota · Dec 1, 2012

Kubota BX23 in NH. Wondering whether to put chains on the back, front or both. Also whether they should be v-bar or standard style. I have a curtis plow for the front, yet to be tested, and about 300# of counterweight on the rear 3ph. Driveway is about 7% grade, asphalt, and the barn area is pretty flat but gravel. Any advice would be appreciated.

whistlepig · Dec 1, 2012

There are those that say putting chains on the front is hard on the front drive line and there are those that say chains on the front and rear are OK. I'm staying out of that. I prefer chains on the rear only. These MPC's are highly rated chains for asphalt:

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rekees4300 · Dec 1, 2012

tdmdkubota said:
Kubota BX23 in NH. Wondering whether to put chains on the back, front or both. Also whether they should be v-bar or standard style. I have a curtis plow for the front, yet to be tested, and about 300# of counterweight on the rear 3ph. Driveway is about 7% grade, asphalt, and the barn area is pretty flat but gravel. Any advice would be appreciated.

V-bar will damage your asphalt so use standard. Put the chains on the rear first then if you need more traction add to front.

radioman · Dec 1, 2012

I Agree with with everyone here -- v bar will destroy or at least put alot of scuff marks on the pavement and you will actually lose traction on pavement with v bar.
I run mostly barefoot turfs on pavement/yard path/woodchips path. I only chainup when I know I am going in deep snow or mud with no pavement under me. Just remember - The BX is pretty nimble and wont get stuff in snow as long you are driving on plowed surface. lifting the plow and driving on snow is a good way to get in trouble in a hurry no matter what you are driving.
If you must get chains - get ones for rear. This is the one that matters the most as it has the most surface size and you can use diff lock if needed to get out of the trouble spot. Having chains in the front is nice, but I really dont see the need for such a small tractor.

flyingcow · Dec 2, 2012

I'm with the rear chain crowd.

tdmdkubota · Dec 2, 2012

Thanks to all..great information and advice...much appreciated!!!

MF1433V · Dec 2, 2012

In general I agree with chains on the rear, that's what I use.

If your are only putting one set of chains on the only reason for the front instead of the rear is 1. cost - fronts are typically much smaller and will cost much less if the budget is limited. 2. if steering is more important than the power of rear push ability. V-bar on the front can be more important for steep slops in which steering is critical. The pull vs. push of the chain on the front is significantly better for steering.

bandit67 · Dec 2, 2012

My suggestion - chain up all 4 on asphalt that is anything but flat. Front chains will help you steer.

For example, a heavy, wet snowfall, where your asphalt is freezing up as you plow, is going to cause you all sorts of problems when the plow is loaded with snow and you're trying to turn and you've got the steep drive to deal with.

I say this based on my experience on both subcompact & compact machines. I have chains for all 4 wheels, and have tried all 3 different combinations in all sorts of situations - front chains, rear chains, front & rear chains. If I only run one set, I prefer to run fronts, but running chains all the way around is by far the best as far as overall traction and control over exactly where the machine goes. My drive consists of a lot of sloped and some nearly flat areas.

Oh, and I agree with most that suggest standard style to keep from destroying your asphalt.

94BULLITT · Dec 2, 2012

It sounds like you have your tractor setup pretty good with the 300lb counterweight. I am kind of on the fence about chains. I am leaning towards the rear only. I may email Kubota and see what they say. My dealer thought I would be fine to run chains on the front of the L4240. I can see advantages on disadvantages to both. The front tire chains would be smaller, easier to handle and store and cheaper. I think the front chains will be hard on the front end of the tractor. I think the rear axle is more durable than the front. I do not recommend chaining up all 4, that is when you will start to break stuff like axles because you will have too much traction. Unless you have a icy storm you may not even need chains. I would not use the Vbar on pavement, they will tear it up, regular chains will scratch it some.

whistlepig · Dec 2, 2012

From what I have researched chains on both the front and rear are very hard on the front drive line. It would be nice to have chains on the front. It would make steering a lot easier. If I were to go chains on the front and rear I wouldn't engage the 4wd on my tractor.

RFB · Dec 3, 2012

I use "H" style chains front and rear in MFWD and have for years. The fronts are crucial in some areas because one slip could put you down and upside down, and no one knowing until daylight.

This is front country; back country can be 60 feet deep.

kco · Dec 3, 2012

Last year was my first for R4's and I quickly discovered I needed chains. I bought DUO pattern chains for the rears after unsuccessfully trying and old pair of 4-link ladders my neighbour gave me when he moved. The DUO's worked well but I occasionally had to use the rear brakes to aid steering.

This year I modified the old 4-link ladders to fit the fronts by removing 3 links of each cross chain and using the extra cross chains to convert them to 2-link ladders. It has been unseasonably warm so I haven't had a chance to see how much they add to traction and steering.

I wondered about front axle stress with the front chains but decided it is not likely an issue for my situation. I have a rear pull-type blower that doesn't demand a lot of forward traction. The front chains are also fairly light 6/0 with very worn v-bars (i.e. right down to the link) and will likely provide moderate grip.

As stated, I haven't tried them yet but I'm sure they will be effective. And they were free, except for $65 for chain pliers and a day's work.

bandit67 · Dec 3, 2012

I don't buy into the "chains on the front will tear the front end apart" argument on compact tractors.

Tdmdkubota, your BX is not heavy enough to be able to rip the front transaxle apart when chains are on. Even with chains, your tractor still slips a little on ice/snow. If the fronts, while chained, are hooking up that well, then you can always disengage the front wheel drive, but I suspect you'll benefit from the front chains more than not, without having to worry about tearing up the front end..

94BULLITT · Dec 3, 2012

Chains on front are probably harder on the steering and "suspension" components.

MF1433V · Dec 4, 2012

bandit67 said:
I don't buy into the "chains on the front will tear the front end apart" argument on compact tractors.

Tdmdkubota, your BX is not heavy enough to be able to rip the front transaxle apart when chains are on. Even with chains, your tractor still slips a little on ice/snow. If the fronts, while chained, are hooking up that well, then you can always disengage the front wheel drive, but I suspect you'll benefit from the front chains more than not, without having to worry about tearing up the front end..

I agree, I have yet to see proof of unusual damage from chains on the front. Even with chains you will run out of traction before power and especially if the tractor is running a blower. A blower is much easier on the transaxle than a snow blade but the tractor is designed to handle either. Personally I would run front only with a blower but would run rears only or all four if I were pushing with a blade, bucket, or snow pusher. I have no idea why some would opine that front chains are hard on steering / suspension? What parts specifically and why?

vtsnowedin · Dec 4, 2012

I have Talon ice chains on my rears which are loaded. The owners manual for my JD5045E says not to chain the front but the dealer says that is more cautionary then need. There is the issue of MFWD having the fronts turn slightly faster then the rears to give positive steering. If your in 4x4 and on a hard surface with all chained up the fronts won't be able to slip and the load on the front U or CV joints would be quite high. I plan on fitting up a set of pickup chains to fit the front but only put them on in the event of an ice storm where it is raining on ice covered roads. That should give plenty of slip for the fronts but allow for positive steering as long as I don't put down pressure on the bucket and take the weight off the tires.

lungdoc · Dec 4, 2012

I chain all 4 but am on gravel roads with an almost constant snowpack. My view is that my front end load is much lower, due to higher slip, in winter with chains than using loader in summer without chains on a hard packed surface. Haven't had problems, but I have significant hills so I need them. My father in law has no hills a mile away and has never used chains on his loader. For snow work individual conditions really dictate the tools needed.

vtsnowedin · Dec 4, 2012

lungdoc said:
I chain all 4 but am on gravel roads with an almost constant snowpack. My view is that my front end load is much lower, due to higher slip, in winter with chains than using loader in summer without chains on a hard packed surface. Haven't had problems, but I have significant hills so I need them. My father in law has no hills a mile away and has never used chains on his loader. For snow work individual conditions really dictate the tools needed.

I'm one hundred percent in agreement with that.

ilander · Dec 6, 2012

I don't like chains on the rear simply because on a compact tractor they give a rougher ride.

My snow removal technique is to back up and blow the snow, then go forward with the blade angled to cleanup the spillage the blower leaves and/or windrow up the snow for the next blower pass, and repeat this until a road or drive is cleaned. This way each forward and reverse motion has work being done. What I have found out with the front blade angled is in hard or deep snow the front of the tractor is pushed away from the snow instead of windrowing it into a ridge. Even though the picture shows no chains, I will put chains on the front to stabilize the steering when angle dozing the snow.

The front axle of this particular tractor is so well made chains will not affect it's durability. We have no asphalt or concrete surfaces to worry about - wish we did.