Chains -where to put them

[RFB]

I use "H" style chains front and rear in MFWD and have for years. The fronts are crucial in some areas because one slip could put you down and upside down, and no one knowing until daylight.

This is front country; back country can be 60 feet deep.

 

[kco]

Last year was my first for R4's and I quickly discovered I needed chains. I bought DUO pattern chains for the rears after unsuccessfully trying and old pair of 4-link ladders my neighbour gave me when he moved. The DUO's worked well but I occasionally had to use the rear brakes to aid steering.

This year I modified the old 4-link ladders to fit the fronts by removing 3 links of each cross chain and using the extra cross chains to convert them to 2-link ladders. It has been unseasonably warm so I haven't had a chance to see how much they add to traction and steering.

I wondered about front axle stress with the front chains but decided it is not likely an issue for my situation. I have a rear pull-type blower that doesn't demand a lot of forward traction. The front chains are also fairly light 6/0 with very worn v-bars (i.e. right down to the link) and will likely provide moderate grip.

As stated, I haven't tried them yet but I'm sure they will be effective. And they were free, except for $65 for chain pliers and a day's work.

 

[bandit67]

I don't buy into the "chains on the front will tear the front end apart" argument on compact tractors.

Tdmdkubota, your BX is not heavy enough to be able to rip the front transaxle apart when chains are on. Even with chains, your tractor still slips a little on ice/snow. If the fronts, while chained, are hooking up that well, then you can always disengage the front wheel drive, but I suspect you'll benefit from the front chains more than not, without having to worry about tearing up the front end..

 

[94BULLITT]

Chains on front are probably harder on the steering and "suspension" components.

 

[MF1433V]

I don't buy into the "chains on the front will tear the front end apart" argument on compact tractors.

Tdmdkubota, your BX is not heavy enough to be able to rip the front transaxle apart when chains are on. Even with chains, your tractor still slips a little on ice/snow. If the fronts, while chained, are hooking up that well, then you can always disengage the front wheel drive, but I suspect you'll benefit from the front chains more than not, without having to worry about tearing up the front end..

I agree, I have yet to see proof of unusual damage from chains on the front. Even with chains you will run out of traction before power and especially if the tractor is running a blower. A blower is much easier on the transaxle than a snow blade but the tractor is designed to handle either. Personally I would run front only with a blower but would run rears only or all four if I were pushing with a blade, bucket, or snow pusher. I have no idea why some would opine that front chains are hard on steering / suspension? What parts specifically and why?

 

[vtsnowedin]

I have Talon ice chains on my rears which are loaded. The owners manual for my JD5045E says not to chain the front but the dealer says that is more cautionary then need. There is the issue of MFWD having the fronts turn slightly faster then the rears to give positive steering. If your in 4x4 and on a hard surface with all chained up the fronts won't be able to slip and the load on the front U or CV joints would be quite high. I plan on fitting up a set of pickup chains to fit the front but only put them on in the event of an ice storm where it is raining on ice covered roads. That should give plenty of slip for the fronts but allow for positive steering as long as I don't put down pressure on the bucket and take the weight off the tires.

 

[lungdoc]

I chain all 4 but am on gravel roads with an almost constant snowpack. My view is that my front end load is much lower, due to higher slip, in winter with chains than using loader in summer without chains on a hard packed surface. Haven't had problems, but I have significant hills so I need them. My father in law has no hills a mile away and has never used chains on his loader. For snow work individual conditions really dictate the tools needed.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I chain all 4 but am on gravel roads with an almost constant snowpack. My view is that my front end load is much lower, due to higher slip, in winter with chains than using loader in summer without chains on a hard packed surface. Haven't had problems, but I have significant hills so I need them. My father in law has no hills a mile away and has never used chains on his loader. For snow work individual conditions really dictate the tools needed.

I'm one hundred percent in agreement with that.

 

[ilander]

I don't like chains on the rear simply because on a compact tractor they give a rougher ride.

My snow removal technique is to back up and blow the snow, then go forward with the blade angled to cleanup the spillage the blower leaves and/or windrow up the snow for the next blower pass, and repeat this until a road or drive is cleaned. This way each forward and reverse motion has work being done. What I have found out with the front blade angled is in hard or deep snow the front of the tractor is pushed away from the snow instead of windrowing it into a ridge. Even though the picture shows no chains, I will put chains on the front to stabilize the steering when angle dozing the snow.

The front axle of this particular tractor is so well made chains will not affect it's durability. We have no asphalt or concrete surfaces to worry about - wish we did.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Nice homemade cab. I like the homemade plow set up as well.