Tires Woke up to this today

   / Woke up to this today
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I may try the ratchet strap around the circumference first. Usually works well.
 
   / Woke up to this today #22  
No suggested pressure on the tire. Any ideas? It's a 13.6-24.

I've got 15x19.5 R4's that say 30psi max. The manual suggests 18psi for max traction.
 
   / Woke up to this today #24  
There is no need for the starting fluid explosion or the strap. Those are for tubeless tires, he has a tube.
 
   / Woke up to this today #25  
I've always wondered, why are there four bolts and two lug nuts? I can see why the studs help you locate the wheel, but why not use all studs and ditch the bolts?
I wonder if the studs are used to attach the tractor to the steel shipping crate. Two of my rigs have the studs - much easier to install the wheels - especially if loaded.
 
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   / Woke up to this today #26  
No, they do not use the studs to attach the tractor to the crate. The studs are installed by the dealer. Trust me I assembled many of them.
 
   / Woke up to this today #27  
There is no need for the starting fluid explosion or the strap. Those are for tubeless tires, he has a tube.
Yes, great observation, forgot about that.
 
   / Woke up to this today #28  
2 reasons for bolts instead of all studs.
1. cost - it costs more to make stud & nut for it than just a bolt. May not seam like much but multiply it by several thousand tractors built it adds up.

Seems backwards. A bolt is a more complicated part to machine than threaded rods or bolts.
 
   / Woke up to this today #30  
If you have ever took off a tractor tire, you would know what the bolts are there for. You just hang the rim on one of the studs and roll it till the other bolt slips in then tighten the nuts. Then all the stud holes are aligned and easily start. Imagine trying to manhandle a loaded tire just perfectly to align the holes and then trying to get a stud bolt started.
 

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