cracked rim HELP! HELP!

[promodranger]

This is the good wheel.I have a 7010 cab/air. My front LEFT rim is cracked between the lugs. Welded it, but cracks come back. Thinking about it, I turn to the right 80-90% of the time making hay. Problem is thay wont sell me the inner part, I have to buy the whole wheel assy. $900. ANY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Texan4Life]

interesting... can you post a pic?

 

[Gary Fowler]

See my post on other thread for detailed welding. You need to v bevel it from one side, weld it up then flip it and v bevel the other side and weld. Use 7018 rods for more crack resistance. You have to completely remove the crack and replace with full penetration weld to keep the crack from coming back. V bevel each side more than 50% so you end up removing all the original metal and replace it all with weld metal. IF the crack is from bolt hole to bolt hole, weld from the ends to the middle so your stops are in the middle and all your starts are at the bolt holes. Use a carbide burring tool or dremel tool with abrasive cone to remove the excess metal from the bolt holes when finished.

 

[civesnedfield]

Should have seen if was a Titan rim before welding it. I think they have a pretty long term warranty.

 

[Reyer Farms]

See my post on other thread for detailed welding. You need to v bevel it from one side, weld it up then flip it and v bevel the other side and weld. Use 7018 rods for more crack resistance. You have to completely remove the crack and replace with full penetration weld to keep the crack from coming back. V bevel each side more than 50% so you end up removing all the original metal and replace it all with weld metal. IF the crack is from bolt hole to bolt hole, weld from the ends to the middle so your stops are in the middle and all your starts are at the bolt holes. Use a carbide burring tool or dremel tool with abrasive cone to remove the excess metal from the bolt holes when finished.

I concur Dr. I would also like to stress clean, clean, clean. Just like new metal. I would also heat the metal and let it anneal back then weld. While heating you can look for other problem areas. Weapon of choice specifically 3/32 7018 at lower amps. Take your time, don't over weld. Good luck.

 

[SPYDERLK]

See my post on other thread for detailed welding. You need to v bevel it from one side, weld it up then flip it and v bevel the other side and weld. Use 7018 rods for more crack resistance. You have to completely remove the crack and replace with full penetration weld to keep the crack from coming back. V bevel each side more than 50% so you end up removing all the original metal and replace it all with weld metal. IF the crack is from bolt hole to bolt hole, weld from the ends to the middle so your stops are in the middle and all your starts are at the bolt holes. Use a carbide burring tool or dremel tool with abrasive cone to remove the excess metal from the bolt holes when finished.

Yes! Then peen the welds with a needle scaler. On reassembly use high strength washers under the bolt heads or nuts to spread the clamp force to a wider area of metal.
larry

 

[Reyer Farms]

Sypderlk,
A needle scaler is a pretty specific tool, I don't even know a welder that has one. I have only seen them in factories. Now it just could be I'm behind. Would the chipping or ball peen hammer do the trick? Is there an advantage to the scaler other than speed of peening?

 

[Boostinjdm]

Sypderlk,
A needle scaler is a pretty specific tool, I don't even know a welder that has one.

I have one. Get's used for peening welds, chipping slag in tight spots, and heavy rust removal. The little one from harbor freight is awesome.

 

[Reyer Farms]

I have one. Get's used for peening welds, chipping slag in tight spots, and heavy rust removal. The little one from harbor freight is awesome.

Well, I reckon I need to take trip to harbor freight. I have seen your work, especially your trailers, and you are quite craftsman. I don't go to ww much anymore so I have not seen what you have done lately but I'm sure it is still first rate.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well, I reckon I need to take trip to harbor freight. I have seen your work, especially your trailers, and you are quite craftsman. I don't go to ww much anymore so I have not seen what you have done lately but I'm sure it is still first rate.

That scaler is just $20 til 12/31 I think. The problem with new scalers is the new needles still have sharp squared off ends. Try to blunt the edges a little by using it against concrete at an angle for a few minutes. Dont forget to oil it in the air port and keep the sales slip. Warranty is a year and some of the cheap ones like HF will malfunction by then.
larry