Heat for UTV's with cabs

   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #61  
Hello;

The site amigauser posted offers the heater I bought for $236.99. I'm paying the factory $264.00. But, I will get it quicker from the factory. I promise to keep yall posted as things move along.

thanks, nicholas

Last time I talked to Amanda she said they were about 200 units behind.Did they give you a ship date? If you can,forward me that email they sent in regard to the BTU output. gregb at etczone dot com. They changed the output ratings on their heaters when they started using the RuCar elements.I was also skeptical of the output ratings and they said they would send an email with an explanation but I never received one.The latest one I got from them does get very hot and heats my somewhat small cab very well.It's the 24V/45 amp model that,according to the Volt/Amp gauge is soaking up a little over 1325 Watts.Wish I had some way to measure the output.

Anyway, I would suggest either 8 or 6 gauge wire directly to the battery,and have the engine running before you turn the heater on.These heaters like an ample amount of power or they won't work right-ie from the battery alone the voltage will drop like a rock with a sudden 50amp load,unless you're using a very large battery.

Let me know how it works.

Greg
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #62  
50 amps @ 12V is 600 watts , 600 watts can make about 2049 BTU, I looked at their specs and it does say 10,020btu, Their math is WRONG , to get 10,000btu of heat you need 3000 watts of electricity, at 12v it takes 250 amps to make 3000 watts !! The one thing about electric resistance heating is it is easy to calculate out because it is all fixed formulas , there are no magical more efficient elements they can use, the numbers either work or they don't.

Electrical resistance heating simply doesn't work out at 12v, you will need all your horsepower to generate electricity, about all those heaters are capable of is getting you defrosted and on the way before the engine warms up and the real heat is ready. Unless that cab is super tight and very well insulated I doubt you would notice if that 600 watt heater was running or not at -12f .

Even if it were practical does any UTV really have 50A continuous to spare ? That would really surprise me.


Ray

My first question was "do you make 120V heaters.I want five of them to heat my house" :licking:

It's a small operation with just a handfull of people that work there.They have been very good about issues with the heaters.Two out of the four I've got from them went south after just a few hours use with no problem getting them fixed.
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #63  
.It's the 24V/45 amp model that,according to the Volt/Amp gauge is soaking up a little over 1325 Watts.Wish I had some way to measure the output.
Greg

1425 btu.
Not rocket science. 1 watt=3.41 btu
You are getting more than the 1080 watt rating.
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs
  • Thread Starter
#64  
Hello Mr. Locknut;

Amamda said she does not know how many units behind they are but no where near 200. And to expect my heater in less then two weeks.

Give me your email address and I will gladly send you a copy of the response to calculation. IF you don't want to post it tell me and I will give you my address so you can mail it to me. Cut and paste is out of my league and I'm not going to mess with it.

thanks, nicholas
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #65  
I already did but here it is again........gregb at etczone dot com
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #66  
1425 btu.
Not rocket science. 1 watt=3.41 btu
You are getting more than the 1080 watt rating.

According to the formula the heater is putting out around 4500 BTU's,which seems to me about right.The output is similar to a normal household resistance heater on the high setting,which if I recall is 1500W/5000 BTU.
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #67  
According to the formula the heater is putting out around 4500 BTU's,which seems to me about right.The output is similar to a normal household resistance heater on the high setting,which if I recall is 1500W/5000 BTU.

Yes, 4521 btu, how did I fat finger the calc after giving the conversion? You mentioned you wished you could measure the output and I was hoping to convey that you can. Electric resistance heat is easy, just a conversion. Electric heat pumps get more difficult as the efficiency and temperatures inside and out affect the output. You know your watts going in so that is easy. Many hair dryers are 1500 watts as well.
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #68  
Hello Mr. Locknut;

Amamda said she does not know how many units behind they are but no where near 200. And to expect my heater in less then two weeks.

Give me your email address and I will gladly send you a copy of the response to calculation. IF you don't want to post it tell me and I will give you my address so you can mail it to me. Cut and paste is out of my league and I'm not going to mess with it.

thanks, nicholas

Thanks for sending me that email.Here it is in full;

[You can't use those numbers to figure our heaters output. We have
manufactured elements since 1984. The elements that we currently have a
patent on are far superior in life expectancy and much more efficient.
Efficiency meaning... same volts and amps equals more heat. Our RuCar
elements will heat a given area up to 300 percent quicker and hotter than
the standard alloy or "quartz" element. Part of it is the material, the
other is the components vacuum sealed inside. You can't use basic math to
calculate these results.]

Well,I think I'll call monday and see if they have a white paper they can fax me.If I can't figure the math out,I know someone who can.
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #69  
Thanks for sending me that email.Here it is in full;

[You can't use those numbers to figure our heaters output. We have
manufactured elements since 1984. The elements that we currently have a
patent on are far superior in life expectancy and much more efficient.
Efficiency meaning... same volts and amps equals more heat. Our RuCar
elements will heat a given area up to 300 percent quicker and hotter than
the standard alloy or "quartz" element. Part of it is the material, the
other is the components vacuum sealed inside. You can't use basic math to
calculate these results.]

Well,I think I'll call monday and see if they have a white paper they can fax me.If I can't figure the math out,I know someone who can.

Thanks for posting. I would not buy a heater from a company who flat out lies like that. What a bunch of BS. They should be reported to weights and measures.
 
   / Heat for UTV's with cabs #70  
Thanks for sending me that email.Here it is in full;

[You can't use those numbers to figure our heaters output. We have
manufactured elements since 1984. The elements that we currently have a
patent on are far superior in life expectancy and much more efficient.
Efficiency meaning... same volts and amps equals more heat. Our RuCar
elements will heat a given area up to 300 percent quicker and hotter than
the standard alloy or "quartz" element. Part of it is the material, the
other is the components vacuum sealed inside. You can't use basic math to
calculate these results.]


Riiiight, and I've invented a diesel fuel additive that doubles a tractors horsepower and cuts the fuel used in half. Not


Why aren't they taking the market by storm ? They could be the leaders in home heating not to mention the government contracts and grants because anything that increases efficiency like that is "green"and green will make you rich and famous faster than anything else right now.

Their playing with numbers on mobile equipment because the electricity is essentially free, and there is no meter on it to verify the usage, it's going to take some pretty big publicity for someone to feel ripped off enough to have their heaters independently tested and disprove those "efficiency"claims.


Ray
 

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