Damaged Threads in Wheel Hub - Thread Chaser or Tap - Or Call For Help

[CurlyDave]

The first think I would try is to run a bolt into the hole from the back side. The threads there are not damaged and the bolt will easily follow the threads in and will push the distorted metal back into the right shape. This will cut the least amount of metal and will be the best repair you can get.

If you can not do that, a thread chaser from the front side is probably better than a tap. Again it cuts a smaller amount of metal.

If you end up having to buy both a thread chaser and a tap you are still way ahead of the game vs. replacing a hub.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The first think I would try is to run a bolt into the hole from the back side. The threads there are not damaged and the bolt will easily follow the threads in and will push the distorted metal back into the right shape. This will cut the least amount of metal and will be the best repair you can get.

If you can not do that, a thread chaser from the front side is probably better than a tap. Again it cuts a smaller amount of metal.

If you end up having to buy both a thread chaser and a tap you are still way ahead of the game vs. replacing a hub.

These are the best options. Without some prior experience you are likely to get a hit or miss on finding the proper lead in thread from the front side. If you come from the back you are guaranteed. If you do using a bolt be sure to use moly anti seize paste on the threads to prevent galling.
larry

 

[Mechanos]

I bought the bolts from the JD dealer for that $1.63 each. But as hard as I looked online at the JD site and others, I could not find the specs on the bolt. Could you tell me where you found the dimensions?

And thanks for the info.

JD Parts

 

[DKCDKC]

Thanks for all the ideas. I had not thought of running the bolt in from the back. I did. It tore up the bolt some and left the threads in the hub a bit shallow in places. But I took a new bolt and then ran it in from the front normally. It went in fairly smoothly and took the proper torque. So I think it's good.

But I have learned to check mundane things like bolts and taps from now on. Making it a routine part of my pre-use check. I do learn from mistakes.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I can see through the bolt hole so I imagine I can access it on the inside. The tires are loaded so I hope I can work through the bolt hole there. Handling loaded tires is hard. I have used taps in the past, but not in this kind of metal - in things like pipe fittings. I think I would call a neighbor who has more experience.

The other issue is getting a tap of the exact size and thread angle. I have a bolt, but can find nothing online anywhere to give me the exact metric size and thread. I may have to take it to a local Fastenal shop and see if they can measure it for me.

While at the Fastenal place pick up one of the bolt sizing and thread gauge identifiers They are about $8 and cover all the different SAE and Metric thread with thread pitch visual reference guide for each thread. I got one last time I was there getting some bolts for my tractor. Easy to use and even has a ruler for getting those mm lengths just right. It is just a little plastic jobby, but it works.

 

[DKCDKC]

A Fastenal place only recently opened in town and I did visit. It is amazing all the stuff they have. Wish they were here when I was fishing for bolts for my old JD and some equipment. They have it all, and know what they're talking about. However, this time I just trotted down to the JD place and bought 6 wheel bolts for about $1.60 each, as I recall. I ran one in from the back to clean out the threads. The threads were visibly damaged, but enough left to hold. So I then ran a bolt in the normal way and it took normal torque... So all is good. Thanks.

 

[jaotguy]

before replacing the hub, if there is enough clearance from behind ( and the head of the bolt will not hit anything ) just buy a longer bolt (about an inch longer) and an acorn nut that matches your wheel profile... thread the bolt in from the back and tighten it down to lock it in place , the longer thread sticks out the front thru your wheel , put the nut on and torque it down.

 

[Willl]

I had not thought of running the bolt in from the back.

I thought that was what Hoss was talking about in post #5 ?

 

[jaotguy]

true ... but if the hub is too badly damaged, a longer bolt AND nut will save buying another hub.

 

[CliffordK]

You might look at thread restoring taps.

Craftsman 48 pc. SAE & Metric Thread Restorer Kit

If the threads are too badly damaged though, you might have to helicoil, or weld and tap.