Wet Sleeve Questions

[superdrew92]

Hello All,

This is my first official post on TBN and I promis it is a wapper of a post also i found that the knowledg base is very high on TBN, so I am not affraid to ask questions.
I am embarking on an engine repaire for this summer, my tractor has developed piston blowby on a grand scale.
She smoks big time at the vent pipe comming from the valve covers when the engin is ideling also when the engine is running I pull the dip stick and pulsating smoke comes out. When the tractor is working hard more smoke comes out the vent pipe to a point where I leave a trail of smoke behind me when driving (more load more smoke, Less load less smoke).
Tearing down the engine is not an issue for me however removing the engine is.
Now for the questions
Can the wet sleeves be removed (cylinder sleeves) from the block while the block is still on the tractor frame?????
If so how difficulte would it be to remove them, do i need special tools or gadgets???????

Any help would be greatly apriciated from all

ThanX Superdrew92

 

[Ken]

Welcome to the TBN forum.
I don't know with your Case But am at this time pulling the wet sleeves from a Allis Chalmers WD-45 that compression was flowing past the rings.
The head and pan needs to be taken off and usually easier pulling the engine. This way can see the seals to rods and crank. As to getting the sleeves out turn block upside down and I use a aluminum block to tap the sleeve to loosen to start removing. after getting the sleeves out check carefully for cracks or spots that might interfere with the putting in new sleeves. clean the sealing area and I use a small amount of gasket maker to make sure the rubber seals are tight.
Then reinstall until flush with top of block unless instruction are different. And most sleeve sets comes with the pistons and rings ready to install.
Others may have different ideas but this way works.
Also since the engine was worn to point of needing repair might as well change the clutch idler bearing and through out bearing if one is used.

Then good time to replace thermostat and clean the radiator. repaint there is never a end when getting started.
ken

 

[cyrush]

The service manual section 2120 deals with pistons and liners but service ops are carried out with the engine removed from the chassis.

Do you require a manual for your tractor, if so drop me a PM with your e mail address for further information. These are genuine Case IH manuals not cheapo aftermarket versions!!!

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

If the front and rear seals are not leaking I would not split the tractor. I use a sleeve puller, but I know others that use a piece of hard wood and drive them out. After the first inch or two they lift out easily.Make sure to clean the area where the O ring seats. Read the instructions carfully about installing the O rings on the sleeves. Some are tapered and can only be installed in one direction.
Bill

 

[cowski]

get a oak 2x4 and drive them out.as long as the cranks good you can rebuild it in frame.

 

[MasseyWV]

Can the wet sleeves be removed (cylinder sleeves) from the block while the block is still on the tractor frame?????
If so how difficult would it be to remove them, do i need special tools or gadgets?

The wet sleeves on my Massey Ferguson 135 tractor's Continental Z-145 gasoline engine were removed while the engine was still bolted to the tractor. I'm not familiar with your specific engine, but imagine the process would be very similar. Here is a link to my TBN post about removing the cylinder sleeves.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...y-1966-massey-135-tractor-21.html#post2905066

 

[MHarryE]

Also not familiar with your particular model but I removed the sleeves from our older Case tractor with the engine in place. Dad was a dealer so I did have access to a sleeve puller.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day wet sleeve engines are easy to do an "in chassis" rebuild just one thing to take note is I always wrap elec tape around the crank journals as you always get water/rust/crud falling down when yyou lift the liners and you don't want that in your oil galleries. I tend to use a liner puller nowadays as I am not fond of ditry water and oil showers!! that is unless the apprentice is around



Jon

 

[Ken]

The reason I had suggested the removal of engine one reason I'm 77 + and neighbors see me laying around under the tractor seem to want to come and measure my pulsed. and crawling out ,standing up to work on top then get back under gets longer each time.
Also I had mentioned replacement of clutch and clutch parts. engine worn to point of needing sleeves changed out, clutch usually is also worn. unless the new type clutch less.
In the tractor I'm repairing the crank is .010 undersize so had already been worked on. so no need to purchase parts until know the size of bearings. then order and wait 10 or more days to arrive.
banjodunn mentioned a helper. or apprentice to be around. Been a few years since I've seen one that is willing to work. Can they be imported?

The group that never gets there hands dirty . are afraid of the former local workers that would work. but now has returned across the Rio Grande.
ken

 

[superdrew92]

Hey All,
ThanX for all the replies, U Gents are getting me all hot and bothered with all your great Ideas, unfortunatly I don`t have a sleeve puller, so would a 2 ton hydrolic jack with a 2X4 oke block of wood cut to length and a metal plate between the jack and block of wood then jacking the sleeves out from the bottom up.
Do U boys think it will work????

Ken, U put a smile on my face with your coment about checking your pulse:laughing:

ThanX again for all replies.