Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150

   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #11  
you use a hollow ground screwdriver to remove them seats.

that said.. if they aren't bad.. might just leave them in.

use a toothpick and buffinf compound to polish them.

any new needles that are viton.. set them int he seat then tap a bit in to get them to conform to the seat.
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #12  
A trick I use for carbs:
Carb cleaning solutions are pricy and my auto parts only sells by the 5 gal. It is really a strong caustic solution.
I used OVEN CLEANER in the spray can and can report that it works like a charm. Gunk, goo and paint strips away leaving a nice clean carb.
I rinse afterwards with warm water to stop any further chemical reactions.
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #13  
caustics are hard on any non iron parts though....

around here carb cleaner is like laquer thinner.. not caustic..e tc..
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #14  
I used Oven cleaner on a holley once. pretty much ruined it.
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #15  
any aluminum, zinc and or yellow metals will be damaged by long term contact with caustic cleaners
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #16  
Saw the float....I'd replace it if it were my carb. A little bit of heat with a small propane torch around that needle seat and hit it with PB or Liq.Wrench is my method and a BIG ended screwdriver that fits the slot in the brass.
To remove varnish that is stubborn,use steam. don-ohio :)^)
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #17  
After 45 years, the carb started leaking on my MF 150 so I thought I'd try to rebuild it myself. This is my first carb rebuild and I'm probably in over my head, but how else does one learn.

I removed the carb and took it apart. It was pretty grungy, so I got one of the gallon cans of carb cleaner from Napa. It is the consistency of paint, I put the carb in the basket and soaked it for an hour (instructions only said 20 min). I pulled it out, rinsed it off and began trying to remove the seat. However, I can't get the seat to turn. When it didn't turn easily, I quit before I completely boogered the brass up. So I have two questions.

1. How are you supposed to remove the seat? Is there some special tool I need or a huge screwdriver? (pic attached for reference).
2. The float does not have a hole in it, but the sides appear to be caved in (pic attached for reference). I'd like opinions on whether I should replace the float as well.

Not sure if it matters, but the carb is a Marvel Schebler TSX 882.[/QUOTE


A huge screwdriver would have been the best place to start but at this point, I would suggest clamping the casting down to a secure object and take a flat pin punch and place it in the screwdriver slot and gently tap on the punch in the direction to loosen the seat. The only thing the seat seals on is a gasget so it should break free fairly easily. The key to remove these kinds of things is to have the piece secured so you can press down with the screwdriver and gently turn it. sometimes if you have a square shanked screwdriver rather than round you can press down on the screwdriver while gently turning the screwdriver with a wrench. After looking at the picture again you could remove the butterfly and throttle shaft and bolt the casting down through the throttle bore. If you could be very carefull and protect the casting with thin metal you might also take a hacksaw or thin file and square up the slots to have a more square screwdriver slot. Be very carefull not to file the casting face. This would be the most risky fix but if done slowly and carefully it may be successful.
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #18  
yep.. heat as well may work.. just be careful..
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #19  
I used Oven cleaner on a holley once. pretty much ruined it.

Personally, I use oven cleaner for many things since it's a great cleaner and degreaser, but never on a carburetor. It tends to eat soft non-ferrous metals like candy.
 
   / Carburetor rebuild help...MF 150 #20  
Another trick would be if you have a substantial enough drill press, Insert the correct size screwdriver tip in the drill chuck, (cut one off if needed, the cost is far less than the carburator.) secure the carborator to the table while lining the seat up with the screwdriver tip. block up the table underneath to help carry the load. advance the spindle, lining up the screwdriver tip with the slot in the seat. While holding down pressure on the spindle turn the drill chuck slowly and gently in the directon to loosen the seat. You could turn the spindle with the upper pulley, a pin punch inserted in the chuck key hole, or just the chuck key. Remember to unplug the drill press to prevent an accident.
 

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