murphy1244
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- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
What kind of paint?
Everything Attachments Wicked Grapple Build
- Thread starter 94BULLITT
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What kind of paint?
Scooby074
Super Member
Good choice.
At a former employer, we built and repaired rock crushers and screeners. As you can imagine, the paint took a lot of impacts.
Standard prep was sandblast followed by two part epoxy paint. Epolon or Duraplate from SW (I think, it's been a while
). Sometimes 2k Urethanes were used too, also SW products.If you'd rather Dupont, old school Imron is still available, but only industrially or for aircraft.
Edit: I see your going to use the factory enamel. That should do OK, plus be a whole lot safer and easier to apply. Cheaper too!:thumbsup:
dstig1
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Bullitt - do yourself a favor and run this test. Put the grapple on the tractor. Curl it down. Press the tines into the ground in this position. Then try to curl it more. Make sure it does not pop off the SSQA on the tractor.
I do not think you will have a problem as you have a vertical tine behind your Kubota SSQA plates, but there is an issue here that I ran into with my Markham/Gator grapple that it would pop off in this situation. On my grapple there is no tine behind the SSQA plate, so when you stress it, the grapple deflects/distorts and the Kubota plate has a "curl" in the top edge that has nothing to push against so it pops out. I added heavy angle as plates to act as stops and the problem disappeared.
It is not an issue with implements that have a solid face (like your bucket in the background), but anything open like the grapple can be a huge problem.
Green arrow points to the "good" tine that should help you. Red arrow points to the problem zone. Like I said, the tine should stop it, but it is easy to fix now, painful later....
I do not think you will have a problem as you have a vertical tine behind your Kubota SSQA plates, but there is an issue here that I ran into with my Markham/Gator grapple that it would pop off in this situation. On my grapple there is no tine behind the SSQA plate, so when you stress it, the grapple deflects/distorts and the Kubota plate has a "curl" in the top edge that has nothing to push against so it pops out. I added heavy angle as plates to act as stops and the problem disappeared.
It is not an issue with implements that have a solid face (like your bucket in the background), but anything open like the grapple can be a huge problem.
Green arrow points to the "good" tine that should help you. Red arrow points to the problem zone. Like I said, the tine should stop it, but it is easy to fix now, painful later....
SPIKER
Elite Member
check with the place you got he enamel to see if they have a catalyst/hardener for it. that will really help it for scratch / chip prevention & follow directions it will also help it cure faster. JUST FOLLOW DIRECTIONS WEAR RESPIRATOR IF SPRAYING. Brushing is just fine though...
Mark
Mark
I'll check it, I don't think it will be a problem with this design. The tines are just tacked to the pipes. They still need to be welded and the gussets added before I can check it.
Good choice.
At a former employer, we built and repaired rock crushers and screeners. As you can imagine, the paint took a lot of impacts.
Standard prep was sandblast followed by two part epoxy paint. Epolon or Duraplate from SW (I think, it's been a while
If you'd rather Dupont, old school Imron is still available, but only industrially or for aircraft.
Edit: I see your going to use the factory enamel. That should do OK, plus be a whole lot safer and easier to apply. Cheaper too!:thumbsup:
Is SW Sherwin Williams? We have a couple around here but I think they just sell paint for houses. I think Imron would be really good but I think you need a really good respirator. The Kubota paint is my first choice but I also keep thinking about the rustoleum hammered finish. It seems to be very durable. RustOleum.com
I got the paint at the dealer, they had to order it in. The can does not mention using a hardener it only mentions thinning it. I need to check I may have some hardener that will work if not I need to get something. I am still open to any other ideas other than painting it, I can't think of anything else.
ericher69
Veteran Member
I took a bunch of pictures tonight. The QA is completed now and the lid hinges are fully welded. It does not sound like much but it was a big step.
Pics of the lower QA fully welded.
Some welds on the upper portion of the QA.
A far back view
All 4 of the the Lid hinges are fully welded now.
Pics of the lower QA fully welded.
Some welds on the upper portion of the QA.
A far back view
All 4 of the the Lid hinges are fully welded now.
That sounds like some good stuff but I would have to ship it to Texas and back so it would be costly.
Scooby074
Super Member
Yeah SW is sherwin.
You need to find an industral SW store or try to have it ordered in. In all honesty you should be using supplied air with any of the paints on my list if spraying.We had full supplied air. If you're brushing, you could get by with a good respirator and NEW cartridge. Anything with Iso's (hardeners) in it is serious stuff. Industrial grade coatings are that much more serious again. Not to scare you, but bad things can and have happened to painters who didn't take precautions. Imron has killed people! These products are 100x more durable than the relatively soft product like Rustoleum. And can cost 10x as much or more/gal.
You can likely get some "wet look" hardener and use it with your enamel. This will toughen it considerably. Bare in mind that this product has iso in it and should be sprayed outdoors (if possible, or with ventilation) and with a new cartridge. This is the cheapest and safest option to get "tough" paint.
Hammertone is much harder than regular rustoleum. A good product that is easy to apply, and cheap too. Doesnt protect against rust as well in my experience. But again, not near as tough as the industrial stuff.
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