New Everlast 160STH unpacked

[BukitCase]

Daugen, if you haven't already found them, there's a TON of help at weldingtipsandtricks.com - Jody's been around the block a lot more times than Chucky, though I've yet to hear chuck steer anybody wrong.

I know what you mean about back probs, tho I doubt mine are as serious as yours sound -
I've found a few solutions by re-purposing such as Island Tractor mentioned. Just bought a couple candidates at the 3-day tent sale at HF;

A 1000 lb. hydraulic table (will get an aux. tabletop that pivots and has roller balls on it for a full-sheet plywood mover/positioner/infeed) and

Their motorcycle lift (don't own one anymore, will also get an aux. plywood top, used mainly for complete cabinet sections assembly, stain, etc so whatever I'm working on can be at a comfortable height)

If any of these "teasers" spark an interest, ask and I'll elaborate (My wife says I do that too much, trying to cut back :=) ...Steve

 

[IslandTractor]

I have the HF portable scaffold rig which works well. I find it easier to weld standing outdoors and being able to set the "bench" height to fit the work piece is nice. It is big enough to hold the welder and convenient for clamping too. I generally throw

 

[BukitCase]

I see you've learned how to keep a turkey in suspense... :laughing:

Hopefully the part that got lost tells us how you raise/lower the scaffold with a welder sitting on it??!? (Inquiring minds wanna know)... Steve

 

[IslandTractor]

I see you've learned how to keep a turkey in suspense... :laughing:

Hopefully the part that got lost tells us how you raise/lower the scaffold with a welder sitting on it??!? (Inquiring minds wanna know)... Steve

Hah, not sure how that semi post happened. I think I was about to say that I can throw all the welding gear on top and then roll the whole kit out of the garage to the driveway where I weld. Though I haven't tried it, it actually is not hard to raise the scaffold while standing on half of it as the "boards" are split so you can have one at a different level from the other. I'll try to find a link. Useful device I originally bought for painting.

Edit: Looks like HF has a different version than I have. Mine is closer to what is now sold by HD: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100658...ping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100658408&ci_gpa=pla

 

[daugen]

I have made lots of notes, ordered my rods online at 1/8 and 3/32 as suggested, and am waiting for them to come in.
Likely enough to keep me welding for many years, but then I like spares.

It's been suggested I start with the smaller rod first to train on.
Makes sense to me...so what amp setting do I use for 6011 when the
suggested max is 90 amps?
80?
thanks

METAL THICKNESS
ELECTRODE SIZE
WELDING AMPS
< 1 mm/.040”
1.5 mm/ 1/16”
20-40
2 mm/.080”
2 mm/3/32”
40-90
3 mm/ 1/8”
3.2 mm/1/8”
80-150

 

[daugen]

I see you've learned how to keep a turkey in suspense... :laughing:

Hopefully the part that got lost tells us how you raise/lower the scaffold with a welder sitting on it??!? (Inquiring minds wanna know)... Steve

I'd love to see this in its own thread with lots of pictures, as an adjustable height work surface is something I think just about everyone is interested in. And many have built their own, perhaps already in Projects.
I'd sure like one...
Keeping that rod a set small distance off the metal is going to take getting some getting used to ,and I mean that as far as ergonomics.
Where and what to prop up against for stability, if anything.
So if something can bring the project to me instead of me to it, boy that would be really helpful.
Or how about I stay still and it moves precisely in the right direction?

 

[IslandTractor]

I have made lots of notes, ordered my rods online at 1/8 and 3/32 as suggested, and am waiting for them to come in.
Likely enough to keep me welding for many years, but then I like spares.

It's been suggested I start with the smaller rod first to train on.
Makes sense to me...so what amp setting do I use for 6011 when the
suggested max is 90 amps?
80?
thanks

METAL THICKNESS
ELECTRODE SIZE
WELDING AMPS
< 1 mm/.040”
1.5 mm/ 1/16”
20-40
2 mm/.080”
2 mm/3/32”
40-90
3 mm/ 1/8”
3.2 mm/1/8”
80-150

As you are just starting to weld, your first task, after reviewing safety and doing appropriate prep, is learning how to strike an arc. This will take some practice. You might as well learn right away what "sticking the electrode" is so I would suggest you start with the 3/32 rods at 30amps on a 1/8th inch (12gauge) or 1/4" piece of scrap. If you are like most of us, you will probably stick the rod to the metal when you strike the arc. When you do, just release the electrode from the handle, put the handle down where it cannot complete a circuit, and then proceed to unstick your electrode by bending it or tapping with a tool. Make sure there is metal, not flux, showing at the tip and try again. 6011 tends not to require cleaning the electrode tip after sticking while some electrodes like 7014 often do. Someone like Shieldarc can probably do it successfully from the start even with less than ideal power but most of us will have trouble when the power is set too low and will stick the electrode to the work piece. Once you have done that a few times, add 10 amps and try again. Keep adding amps until you are able to keep the arc going. Then, back down the amps and try to keep the arc going with less power. More amps is easier but may well be more than you want for laying down a proper bead. Learn to read your bead for evidence of too little or too much power. There are photo charts available from a number of sources that will help you learn to recognize too much or too little power and too slow or too fast travel. In the beginning though you need to get competent at just striking the arc. Do not get discouraged if you stick the electrode regularly, just remember it takes both the correct power and your hand eye coordination to do properly so evaluate both your settings and technique if you are having trouble.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

With 6011 90 amps would work with 1/8" electrode. But 3/32 would work but it would feel a little hot.

No, don't learn to stick the rod. Inverters have arc force control and hot start. Intentionally sticking the rod is not a good idea unless you want a red hot rod completely toasted rod on your hand. No reason to intentionally stick the rod.

 

[IslandTractor]

With 6011 90 amps would work with 1/8" electrode. But 3/32 would work but it would feel a little hot.

No, don't learn to stick the rod. Inverters have arc force control and hot start. Intentionally sticking the rod is not a good idea. No reason to intentionally stick the rod.

You are far more experienced than I but I assure you with a Miller Maxstar 150, the equivalent inverter welder, it is VERY easy for a noobie to stick the rod. Starting at 90 amps is certainly easier to do but would burn the 3/32 rod pretty quickly and not teach the finer hand eye coordination and maintenance of gap that one needs to learn.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

That's a maxstar for you...

As far as my recommendations?

If you are going to box, you don't start by getting knocked out...and that's what you're recommending.
You take time to train and start easy, then get more intensive as you build your skills.

The 6011 is a fine rod to begin with. It's moderately difficult but will allow the user to see the puddle and give time to react. Possibly a 7014 might be better as its smoother, softer and lays in a whole lot easier, and gives the operator the practice in being able to visually separate the slag from the puddle. But sticking them intentionally does not help anything because there will be plenty of sticking going on as it is. IF you are sticking your rod as a welder on a routine basis, then something is wrong whether you aren't using enough amps, improper metal prep or wet rods.