New Everlast 160STH unpacked

[IslandTractor]

That's a maxstar for you...

Hah, it seems it was a pretty good template though! And though I love my Maxstar 150sth, I will grant that you guys have a very nice clone that beats anything I've seen in bang for the buck.

Seriously though, experienced welders may have forgotten how easy it is to stick an electrode when just learning. I still think it makes sense to recognize the issues and work through them systematically rather than blame the rod or welder.

 

[k0ua]

If he will start with some 3/32 7014, it is pretty hard to stick that..and he will make nice beads from the get go. Just my humble opinion.

James K0UA

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Hah, it seems it was a pretty good template though! And though I love my Maxstar 150sth, I will grant that you guys have a very nice clone that beats anything I've seen in bang for the buck.

Seriously though, experienced welders may have forgotten how easy it is to stick an electrode when just learning. I still think it makes sense to recognize the issues and work through them systematically rather than blame the rod or welder.

Not a clone, I assure you. Weld with the two and you'll see a difference.

 

[IslandTractor]

If he will start with some 3/32 7014, it is pretty hard to stick that..and he will make nice beads from the get go. Just my humble opinion.

James K0UA

Yes but if he does stick it (I have) he needs to recognize that the flux tends to insulate the tip after sticking and needs to be broken off to reveal the metal electrode. I just crush it with my mig pliers.

 

[IslandTractor]

Not a clone, I assure you. Weld with the two and you'll see a difference.

Send me a loaner and I'll be happy to compare them!

If I were buying today I would clearly look hard at yours before getting the Miller. Specs are almost identical. I got mine used but still paid double what the Everlast cost.

 

[daugen]

If he will start with some 3/32 7014, it is pretty hard to stick that..and he will make nice beads from the get go. Just my humble opinion.

James K0UA

Jim, I have some of that on order also so I will substitute 7014 instead. I hear you loud and clear on the sticking.
I also understand Mark's approach where if you run the welder within reasonable parameters, sticking is not a big problem, but
when the first stick comes, I'd better know about letting go of the rod properly. I finally got a welding book and am reading it carefully, though
not the first one I ordered.

Now Mark, it was my understanding the more sophisticated starting controls were not for stick welding. Does this unit do anything particularly clever on basic stick welding? thanks Drew

 

[k0ua]

Jim, I have some of that on order also so I will substitute 7014 instead. I hear you loud and clear on the sticking.
I also understand Mark's approach where if you run the welder within reasonable parameters, sticking is not a big problem, but
when the first stick comes, I'd better know about letting go of the rod properly. I finally got a welding book and am reading it carefully, though
not the first one I ordered.

Now Mark, it was my understanding the more sophisticated starting controls were not for stick welding. Does this unit do anything particularly clever on basic stick welding? thanks Drew

It has a hot start function that raises the voltage some to help prevent sticking when you start the arc. But skill, derived from lots of practice will solve most of the problem. Another thing you can do, is cut your rods in half until you get more skill. A 7 inch rod is easier to manipulate than a 14 inch rod for a beginner. Just chip a little off of the end of the rod piece you cut off for the stinger to make good contact. Now remember that with 7014 rod, while it is easy to run, and makes a wide smoother bead, it also requires you to move a bit faster as the puddle fills quicker than some others because the flux has iron powder in it that contributes to the puddle metal. This is usually not a problem because noobie weldors tend to move too fast anyway. I know I always did. Stringy nasty looking beads were always my forte, due to too long of an arc, and moving way too fast. All noobs seem to suffer from this malady. But if you will cut your rods in half to start, and start with some 7014 which by nature is an easy rod to run, you will build some confidence right out of the gate. Believe it or not a lot of guys start to learn to stick weld, and NEVER learn to stick weld, and sell their welder and say "I guess stick welding is just not for me" I have never had any instruction, or classes, but I am betting I could have benefited from it. What I have learned, I have learned the "hard" way. And I sure made a lot of nasty "welds". The biggest things that improved my welding, were practice, an autodarkening helmet, and some good 7018 rod. And I could use more improvement. I think welding is just a journey that never really ends, you get better if you stay with it but there is always more to learn and new hurdles to get past. Good luck and go make some sparks!

James K0UA

 

[daugen]

made lots of progress since last report. And my wife will be pleased to get the welding equipment out of "her foyer"...
Which luckily I can because my new cart rolls pretty easily.

I looked at the similar cart in HF, and it was only ten or twenty bucks less. This I found on Amazon, and it came well rated.
And I can see why. Adequately heavy, decent paint, quality hardware, all good. My memory is 65 bucks.
Thank goodness my wife likes to build these things, it's like doing a puzzle for her. I think she was assisting because she really
wanted the cart and its contents into the garage, where it belongs...

Everything seems to fit on the cart just fine. Stocked up on rods, a somewhat motley assortment, but to begin with I doubt the
brand of rod will be of any consequence. Now all I need to do is put the AC plug on and get somewhere to plug it in. The juice is not turned on at the barn yet, still arguing with the local electric company, who doesn't want to run the more expensive cable up the hill to the barn. Which they will do but we have to argue with them some more. Their position is very justifiable based on cost/benefit to them. But even if we have to buy our own transformer, we are going to get adequate power there. Which I have right in my home garage, where I want to start, but of course no receptacle. We have all new service and I never thought to ask them to put a separate 50 amp box on the inside garage wall.
I think I'm going to take the plug that came with the machine, go to Home Depot and make sure plug A fits into Box B and then I'll hunt down
an electrician. We have a small list of electrical to do's but this certainly warrants making the call. I mean, what could be more important?...

And while I'm doing that, I'm also making up a small toolbox for welding tools and clamps. Until my super duper welding table is built.
One small step for mankind...

and I still would like to mount this welder on a little garden cart like in the pic, but first I'll see how this rolls in gravel and thick field grass.

 

[daugen]

I looked at my pictures again this morning and had to chuckle. Looks like I bought enough welding rods to last until
the next Ice Age.

I also wondered why the ground clamp is not insulated on the outside. Seems like an accident waiting to happen.
Obviously the teeth have to make good contact, but why leave the rest of the clamp bare? Isn't this worth an extra buck?

Mark from Everlast suggested as my skills improve, I might consider a different stinger. Are any of them more ergonomic?

And if one is right handed, does one weld from left to right or right to left?

I sure am ignorant. But trying not to be stupid. :dance1:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

This is the better style that most people prefer. There won't be anything wrong with ergonomics on this one. It has the tong type release instead of the stub holder twist type that used to come with it.

You can weld left to right or right to left. Sometimes, depending on the joint and the position you have to do both. Just keep the top of the electrode leading the puddle by 15 degrees or so. Just be sure that you get your head in the angle between the top of the electrode and the metal on the front edge of the puddle so you can see. Don't sit up over the top of it.