Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[SPIKER]

Pete,
Do you ever have strong winds or a tornado in that area?
There are some simple metal clips that go from the truss down to the inside of the wall top plate before the plasterboard goes on. Cost a few cents each.
...
Ron

Ron I believe they are called Hurricane Straps I added them to my barn & they are mandatory in many parts of Ohio. I just happen to live in an area with only Federally Mandated inspections, (Well & Septic.)

You can see them in this pic

They are shiny on each of the floor joists running along the top plates.

 

[s219]

Yeah, you can't get by inspection nowadays without hurricane ties and other types of strapping and reinforcements. Some is a good idea, others are overkill but required by code.

 

[pacerron]

Ron I believe they are called Hurricane Straps I added them to my barn & they are mandatory in many parts of Ohio. I just happen to live in an area with only Federally Mandated inspections, (Well & Septic.)

You can see them in this pic

They are shiny on each of the floor joists running along the top plates.

Spiker,
That is the same type I used and added them myself since I had not specified them in the deal I had with the framer.
The big advantage IMO is that the trusses are normally toe nailed into the plate. That is the weakest manner of attachment since
nailing through the grain at an angle often cause splitting or a weak condition where a little lateral movement will split the piece between the nails and the plate.
The big advantage of the bracket is that the nails that come with them go into the grain of both members straight and far enough from the edges to make a very secure connection.
I also live in a part of Ohio where plumbing, wells, and septic tank systems are all that is inspected but I still do everything "to last forever"
to avoid as many potential problems as possible.
Ron

 

[pclausen]

Pete,
Do you ever have strong winds or a tornado in that area?
There are some simple metal clips that go from the truss down to the inside of the wall top plate before the plasterboard goes on. Cost a few cents each.

Strong winds we do get on occasion. I'll check with the builder to get his take. I used those when I build my polebarn.

What kind of siding are you going to use?

A mix of stone veneer and hardy plank. Have not decided which will go where the meter base and transfer switch will be yet. Good idea about spacers if we go the hardy plank route!

Have you thought about re-balancing the front view of the house since you are adding a wider garage door?
I played with the artist conception and have figured it out. The changes are on another computer, but I can send them the next time
I have it on, if you are interested?

Sure Ron!

 

[Obed]

Yes, the hurricane straps will protect your roof from more than just hurricanes and tornadoes. I saw several roofs blown off by a "microburst". I microburst is basically an anomoly caused in a thunderstorm and can happen just about anywhere.

Microburst - Wikipedia

A microburst is a very localized column of sinking air, producing damaging divergent and straight-line winds at the surface that are similar to, but distinguishable from, tornadoes, which generally have convergent damage. There are two types of microbursts: wet microbursts and dry microbursts. They go through three stages in their life cycle: the downburst, outburst, and cushion stages. The scale and suddenness of a microburst makes it a great danger to aircraft due to the low-level wind shear caused by its gust front, with several fatal crashes having been attributed to the phenomenon over the past several decades.

A microburst often has high winds that can knock over fully grown trees. They usually last for a duration of a couple of seconds to several minutes.



Obed

 

[pacerron]

Strong winds we do get on occasion. I'll check with the builder to get his take. I used those when I build my polebarn.
Builders don't like to mess with them, if they can get away with not. Air nailers are much faster. There may be an air nailer now though that will handle the fat short nails.

A mix of stone veneer and hardy plank. Have not decided which will go where the meter base and transfer switch will be yet. Good idea about spacers if we go the hardy plank route!
Hardy plank is nice but I hate to paint. You can get some white nylon dowel and saw off a few pieces the thickness you think your siding will be. Center drill it for the longer mounting screws, and you can do what I said before regardless of the siding/stone.

Sure Ron!

i guess that means "let-r-fly.
Most houses with the ridge or peak over the garage door/doors center the cutouts for balance. Your original concept, even though the door was not centered under the peak maintained the balance by
1. covering the door with the siding material and 2. covering the storage nook face on the right side with stone about the same width as the stone on the left in front of the garden entrance.
Adding the wider door, IMO would look more balanced if you keep the siding above the door and the door covering the same material. Then if you extend the stone covering to the right of the right side of the garage an amount similar to the entrance width you will regain the balance and also create a better street view in that the generator, meter box, and related devices will not show as you approach the front of the house.
I would suggest you pound some posts in the ground to get an idea of the wall extension effect and look at it from different angles while standing out in the driveway. You probably already paid for the stone on the right of the garage anyway in the original bid. When they dig the foundation for the wall on the left they can also do the right.
See attached changes to the original artist conception.

Number 2...
If you have not done so already, read all the warranty requirements for the roof shingles. Most 30 year shingles today are fully covered for the 1st 10 years, but only if the underlayment has been done according to the requirements for a particular shingle. Most require a rubber stick down roll as the first thing above the spoutings for ice protection and also in all valleys. Some require it along the outer edges as well as starter strips, and a specific nailing pattern. You can read all the requirements on the net at the mfg. sites or pick up pamphlets at a builder supply that sells the brand you want to use.
After the contractor starts laying the shingles it will be too late if he hasn't done it right.
Ron

 

[chub380]

Beautifull place, Hardipank is grat stuff but make sure your contractor uses the right nails and be sure it is anchored into the studs. It wouldnt hurt to put a couple of screws in each piece also. We recently had some high wind and took 2 pieces of plank off our house half way up crazy i know. Anyway i have pretty much experience with the stuff so if you would like to talk about it let me know and we could talk.

 

[aczlan]

Number 2...
If you have not done so already, read all the warranty requirements for the roof shingles. Most 30 year shingles today are fully covered for the 1st 10 years, but only if the underlayment has been done according to the requirements for a particular shingle. Most require a rubber stick down roll as the first thing above the spoutings for ice protection and also in all valleys. Some require it along the outer edges as well as starter strips, and a specific nailing pattern. You can read all the requirements on the net at the mfg. sites or pick up pamphlets at a builder supply that sells the brand you want to use.
After the contractor starts laying the shingles it will be too late if he hasn't done it right.
Ron

I agree. Around here most good contractors will use "Ice and Water Shield" in all valleys and for the first 1-2 rows of underlayment on all eaves. Its thicker and sticky so it adheres itself to the roof.

Aaron Z

 

[mjncad]

From a design standpoint, I like Ron's idea to balance the front of the house and hide the genset as shown in illustration three.

 

[PILOON]

I agree. Around here most good contractors will use "Ice and Water Shield" in all valleys and for the first 1-2 rows of underlayment on all eaves. Its thicker and sticky so it adheres itself to the roof.

Aaron Z

On any roofs that I did I proposed ice guard on the whole roof.
Very cost effective as it is roll and stick; done.
IMHO better than using more costly shingles and in effect it is your primary water protection with the shingles then becoming the wear protection for the ice guard.
Simply put, you can have poor insulation and or poor ventilation plus water dam build ups and heaps of snow and enjoy no leakage.
Even one of the major tile manufacturer rep recommended this procedure as the way to go especially around here where we get heaps of snow and lots of cathedral ceilings with inadequate insulation and or poor ventilation..

This proved especially effective when converting seasonal chalets to year round dwellings all while on a budget as most folks did not want to re do the interiors as well as the roofs. We are in a area that gets up to 4 ft of snow and temps swing from -30 to +80 seasonally.
(last week we saw +8 and -20 and next 24 hrs will get 16" snow. AKA winter, summer spring fall all in same week)

I have 36" sitting on my roof, some icicles and no leaks.