BX2200 Wont Start, New Battery, fule pump runs and starter clicks

[jduderdad]

I have a BX2200 that was having issues turning over and starting. I replaced the battery and still have same issue. Can hear the fuel pump going and the starter tryes to turn the engine over but just makes a loud clicking noise. Is the starter bad? Seloniod? Help please

 

[4shorts]

I've replaced two or three starters on those machines because of the solonoids. You hit the key to start and all you get is a "click". A quick test is keep your key in the crank position and tap on the starter with a small hammer. If it starts to crank (I suspect it will) then its the starter. Rather than just replacing the solonoid I replaced the starter because of the low cost.
Hope this helps and welcome to the site

 

[David Devuono]

You say the starter tries to turn the engine over, is that because you see a little movement in the fan blade or does it do like a 1/2 rotation? Was the new battery charged, have you tried boosting with your car\truck? Clicking starter Solenoid ususally relates to a week battery. If battery is good then...

I would do some gentle tapping on the starter with a small hammer and then try and start it, you may have some brushes seized or warn down too much.

How many hours on the tractor?

 

[David Devuono]

4 shorts types faster then me!

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

I have a BX2200 that was having issues turning over and starting. I replaced the battery and still have same issue. Can hear the fuel pump going and the starter tryes to turn the engine over but just makes a loud clicking noise. Is the starter bad? Seloniod? Help please

The problem you have is a safety switch is not activating. Try moving the PTO lever if not all of them and turning the key at the same time. I have the exact same problem. Just have not had the time to take the tire off and see what the problem is. It is a simple fix. Good luck and welcome to TBN

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[radioman]

I fall in the yankees camp of levers first. Its the easiest and free thing to check. 4shorts also makes a good point on solenoid as cars do the same thing. Just need to do a little more troubleshooting instead of part swapping and hoping.

 

[gwdixon]

As others have said, safety switches are all over the BX2200.

Try jiggling all of the levers one at a time and then try starting after each lever is bumped.

You likely know this but make sure it is in neutral, both PTOs are disengaged, sit on the seat, put on the brake, and generally shut down ever possible function except the start key.

 

[ibnxe]

If your solenoid clicks when the key is turned to the crank position, the safety switches are OK. With a safety switch out of position, there will be no power to the solenoid, and no click.
First, make sure that the starter and battery connections are clean and tight. With a voltmeter, take a voltage reading at the starter while attempting to crank. Cranking voltage should be above 9.6 volts. If the voltage measures 12 volts and all you get is the click, the starter is bad.
In most cases, a starter that won't run will need the brushes replaced. This is much cheaper than replacing the starter.

 

[4shorts]

In most cases, a starter that won't run will need the brushes replaced. This is much cheaper than replacing the starter.

I don't see it that way. I replaced the starter on the last two that I did. The new starter cost $120. With a 3 year warranty. If you just replace the brushes now or the solonoid who's to say another part won't go in a month or so.
My thought are IF you have to remove the starter at all, shove a new one in and be done with it.
Just my :2cents: worth.

 

[ibnxe]

I guess I'm from the old school. I almost always disassemble failed components to see what went wrong... and repair, if it is something simple.

 

[varmint]

There are two ways of thinking about this: 4shorts, who is a professional, and for whom time is money, and the other guy, who is just trying to get by, and maybe has less money. This reminded me of troubles I had with a Camry starter in the early 90's- the warranty was over, and the starter was giving me trouble. I had time, not so much money. I wound up soldering a piece of fabricated brass where something had been mis-aligned at the factory had worn thru, and the fix lasted for many years, until I got rid of the car, anyway. The started was Toyota-fine, otherwise. Sure, it would have been much quicker and easier to put in a new one, and had I been charging somebody to fix it, that would have made sense. But...

 

[4shorts]

I guess I'm from the old school. I almost always disassemble failed components to see what went wrong... and repair, if it is something simple.

There are two ways of thinking about this: 4shorts, who is a professional, and for whom time is money, and the other guy, who is just trying to get by, and maybe has less money. This reminded me of troubles I had with a Camry starter in the early 90's- the warranty was over, and the starter was giving me trouble. I had time, not so much money. I wound up soldering a piece of fabricated brass where something had been mis-aligned at the factory had worn thru, and the fix lasted for many years, until I got rid of the car, anyway. The started was Toyota-fine, otherwise. Sure, it would have been much quicker and easier to put in a new one, and had I been charging somebody to fix it, that would have made sense. But...

This is a situation where none of is wrong. You both have very valid points and for myself I might have just did the repair IF I could have just got the one part but if your going to the dealer to buy a solenoid you'd be much better off getting a rebuilt starter with a three year warranty for 1/3rd the cost of the one dealer part with no warranty plus in my case it would have to be ordered in and that can take days on an island.

Also IF you just need to put brushes in the starter its really useless to do that unless you have a lathe near by to cut the armature. Put new brushes on a old armature and its going to let you down.

Now from my stand point Varmint got it right. If I take a customers tractor, car ..... And just repair the starter and charge for example two hours to install the solenoid and that starter ends up with other issues shortly after, what do you think the customer will say?
I bet it will go like this " Heck man. It was only the other day I spent $150 on this starter and its broken again! "

To avoid that issue I replace the starter for 1/3 of the cost with the 3 year warranty and if it causes an issue with in 90 days I replace it for free and after the 90 days he gets the 3 year warranty and just pays the labour.

Face it. If the solenoid is bad in the starter what's the bushings, armature, bendix drive, windings like? I bet there's other weak components in there as well. These are the reasons I say replace the starter plus the fact the end user is satisfied. I think that's more than fair. As I say, everyone has great points and this is just mine :thumbsup:

 

[varmint]

Reading this thread got me remembering a story I heard from a guy who runs a marine outboard engine repair shop on Maryland's Eastern Shore- a location with lots of boats and motors. You'd think he'd be in a good place, but when they began to mix ethanol into gas, his troubles began: LOTS of customers with outboard engine problems (from ethanol) so he was busy, but the trouble began when these customers came back with problems, again, and didn't think they should pay all over... he didn't have time to do the work that made money for him, because he was baby-sitting too many ethanol caused problems. He was bummed out, with no happy future in sight! Fix it, fit it again, and again. Now, some guys were smart enough not to leave any gas in their engines, but some weekend sailors couldn't get it into their heads that the gas was their problem, not the motor guys.

 

[jduderdad]

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and help. Here's where the issue stands. Have fully charged battery and starter wont crank or click. With a voltmeter checked and confirmed 12 + volts at the starter positive terminal. from their I removed the wire from the ignition that fires the solenoid/ starter. With key in crank position I only see 7.3 volts. Jumping the solenoid to the positive terminal results in the started turning over and working. Is my ignition switch bad? Loose or corroded wire or connections? What could cause low voltage from the ignition switch? Thanks

 

[3v0]

On topic. The tractor will not start when the transmission is in high or low range, has to be in neutral. A quick test is to put it in low and turn the switch to start it. Now put it in neutral and try again. Did the sound it makes change? If it did it is not the safety interlocks. I just made that up. Think it is right

Off topic:
When I hit collage the starter went out on my car. I knew it was the bendix but the guy at the garage that fixed it said they only replace the entire starter. The starter failed twice under warranty and the second time it was the bendix again! that time he replaced the Bendix but I had payed for a starter and at least one tow.

After that I started investing in tools. Years latter I was too lazy or busy to replace a power steering hose so I had my wife take the car to have it fixed. The bums either knocked loose or unplugged the oxygen sensor.

 

[David Devuono]

Its interesting that on three occassions since I bought my B3200 a month or so ago my tractor has died because I got out of the seat while it was moving and it would not restart no matter what position the levers were in. After a few minutes, it would start so this has me thinking there is some kind of timer in the start circuit. When the tractor is stopped, I can start it in any range setting, even standing beside the tractor. I have not tried it with the PTO engaged.

It sounds as though you are on the right track now that you have confirmed the starter is okay. You will need to go one by one through the safety features. Test each switch.

 

[radioman]

You are on the right track -- the older BX's have issues with the starter switches. Before you replace - I'd trace the starter wire from starter all the way to switch and make sure its not rubbed through insulation causing corrosion and higher resistance for voltage somewhere. Its a free check before wasting money on a switch.

 

[3v0]

... When the tractor is stopped, I can start it in any range setting, even standing beside the tractor. I have not tried it with the PTO engaged.

My BX2200 must be in neutral to start.

 

[gwdixon]

My BX2200 must be in neutral to start.

Mine, too. In fact, almost all HST tractors have to be in neutral or the clutch depressed (if so equipped) to start.

 

[3v0]

gwdixon it is cool to see the BX2200 parked next to the big boys. Does it have a FEL too?