Pressure Tank Installation-Need some Expertise on a Pressure Tank Delema Please

[BSVLY]

That sure sounds reasonable to me. I'm going to contact the well tech again. Thanks

I know you don't want the booster running dry, but there are better ways to do that, than waiting for the big tank to fill completely up.

One way would be to raise the "pump on" level so the tank always has enough water for the booster and change the defeat circuit to monitor the "too low" level.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I agree with the others. Set the well pump to come on when the 1000 gal tank is around 200-300 gal. Disable the booster pump protection system or modify it so it cuts power to the booster when the tank level gets to 100 gallons or so to reduce the chance of running dry. Should be simple to adjust the float to start filling sooner.

Brett

 

[rmorey]

I agree, assuming I understand your system description, adjust the float higher in the 1k tank. It will think its empty but will have 200 gal left. Disable the boost pump cutoff cct., you dont need it now because you have 200 gal of water for the house. All you have done is made the tank smaller.

Its the same as adding 200 gal. of extra tankage but cheaper. Your down pump cycles several more times per day is all.

 

[firedog]

More that likely, your system was installed with a minimal amount of control logics. Meaning, there is probably two float switches or even one dual action float switch that at low level turns on the well pump and disables the booster. then at high level shuts off the well pump and re-enables the booster which will continue to operate until the low level hits again.

What you need is an additional low level switch.
Your system logics should operate like this.
Low level (say 40%): turn on well pump
Low Low level (20%): disable booster pump
high level (80%): turn off well pump

Now, whether you tank can accomodate an additional switch or this revision, your tech will need to figure out.

 

[BSVLY]

More that likely, your system was installed with a minimal amount of control logics. Meaning, there is probably two float switches or even one dual action float switch that at low level turns on the well pump and disables the booster. then at high level shuts off the well pump and re-enables the booster which will continue to operate until the low level hits again.

What you need is an additional low level switch.
Your system logics should operate like this.
Low level (say 40%): turn on well pump
Low Low level (20%): disable booster pump
high level (80%): turn off well pump

Now, whether you tank can accomodate an additional switch or this revision, your tech will need to figure out.

Thanks for the detailed Explanation. I will try to get my tech to log-on to TBN and read this thread. maybe I can avoid the hassle of a thiord pressure tank after all.

THX

 

[BSVLY]

sounds reasonable to me. I'll have the tech check out this proposed fix. THX

QUOTE=rmorey;3269504]I agree, assuming I understand your system description, adjust the float higher in the 1k tank. It will think its empty but will have 200 gal left. Disable the boost pump cutoff cct., you dont need it now because you have 200 gal of water for the house. All you have done is made the tank smaller.

Its the same as adding 200 gal. of extra tankage but cheaper. Your down pump cycles several more times per day is all.[/QUOTE]

 

[BSVLY]

I agree, assuming I understand your system description, adjust the float higher in the 1k tank. It will think its empty but will have 200 gal left. Disable the boost pump cutoff cct., you dont need it now because you have 200 gal of water for the house. All you have done is made the tank smaller.

Its the same as adding 200 gal. of extra tankage but cheaper. Your down pump cycles several more times per day is all.

10-4. Going to check out this possible fix. THX-

 

[BSVLY]

More that likely, your system was installed with a minimal amount of control logics. Meaning, there is probably two float switches or even one dual action float switch that at low level turns on the well pump and disables the booster. then at high level shuts off the well pump and re-enables the booster which will continue to operate until the low level hits again.

What you need is an additional low level switch.
Your system logics should operate like this.
Low level (say 40%): turn on well pump
Low Low level (20%): disable booster pump
high level (80%): turn off well pump

Now, whether you tank can accomodate an additional switch or this revision, your tech will need to figure out.

Thanks. Deserves investigation. I will likely head in this direction.

THX

 

[Xfaxman]

Have the Well Tech look at this: Constant Pressure Valve

Watch the amps on the pumps.

Large pressure tanks are not needed with a constant pressure valve.

 

[ronjhall]

Just a thought. Another reason for shutting off Booster Pump while Down well pump is running. Is that there may not be enough electrical power to run both pumps at same time. May want to check that out before using some of the suggestions that both pumps run at same time. Otherwise those suggestion sound like the easiest solution.