Pressure Tank Installation-Need some Expertise on a Pressure Tank Delema Please

[hr3]

Just a thought. Another reason for shutting off Booster Pump while Down well pump is running. Is that there may not be enough electrical power to run both pumps at same time. May want to check that out before using some of the suggestions that both pumps run at same time. Otherwise those suggestion sound like the easiest solution.

Was thinking the same thing.. good call,, :thumbsup:

 

[PILOON]

Thinking that perhaps a mechanical 24 hr/7daytimer like used to turn lighted signs on/off might be incorporated into the system.
That way you could program periods that the watering system would be 'off circuit' giving household usage priority.
If wire size to the pumps is sufficient to run both pumps then another option presents itself, namely re-configuring float levels to protect the booster pump.
Providing wire is OK but it is a quantity question then the timer approach to cut out the irrigation would work.
Those 24/7 timers run about $100. or so.

 

[tommu56]

I have a similar set up at my cabin and i use a more complex system mainly because i have a low yield well.

If you put a tank at the house make sure to put a check valve or 2 in the line from the pump house.

I would put a timer on your down well pump and turn it on at night when you are sleeping and top it off.
that way the tank is full all the time.

If you are using over the 1000 gallons start it a couple times a day before it gets low and have the top float cut it off.

tom

 

[M E Race]

If your cycling 3 to 5 times a day, that would put you without water for close to 2 hours a day. From the sound of it your well tech is a blithering idiot. One 84 gallon preasure tank is more than enough to service a house. I use a 2 inch well with a 12 gpm Sta-Rite deep well pump to supply water to mine and my sons house with no loss of preasure even with two washers, dishwasher, and showers running sometimes all at the same time. If your downhole pump is putting out 25 to 28 gpm simply set cut in switch to cut on at 50 percent of your storage tank and do away with the cut out on booster pump.
That way you are looking at a 5 min refill cycle,unless you are irrigating at more than 25 to 28 gpm you would never run dry. A third tank, piping, slab, building, check valves, and you are already into a 4 figure tab for a fix that any reputable well tech could do for under $100. I would bet that your tech can recomend a cement finisher to do your slab and a carpenter to build your well house and of course he will give the best deal on the trenching and pipe work. As with any operation I would get a second opinion befor I went under the trencher.

 

[BSVLY]

Noted. Thanks

Just a thought. Another reason for shutting off Booster Pump while Down well pump is running. Is that there may not be enough electrical power to run both pumps at same time. May want to check that out before using some of the suggestions that both pumps run at same time. Otherwise those suggestion sound like the easiest solution.

 

[BSVLY]

Good suggestion. Thank You

I have a similar set up at my cabin and i use a more complex system mainly because i have a low yield well.

If you put a tank at the house make sure to put a check valve or 2 in the line from the pump house.

I would put a timer on your down well pump and turn it on at night when you are sleeping and top it off.
that way the tank is full all the time.

If you are using over the 1000 gallons start it a couple times a day before it gets low and have the top float cut it off.

tom

 

[BSVLY]

I think you are coming on strong here. My tech is a great fellow, a friend and does not gouge anyone. Your reply is bit offensive partner. It would be cool if you would please edit out your vile quips. However, your technical input was much appreciated. Thanks you.

s

If your cycling 3 to 5 times a day, that would put you without water for close to 2 hours a day. From the sound of it your well tech is a blithering idiot. One 84 gallon preasure tank is more than enough to service a house. I use a 2 inch well with a 12 gpm Sta-Rite deep well pump to supply water to mine and my sons house with no loss of preasure even with two washers, dishwasher, and showers running sometimes all at the same time. If your downhole pump is putting out 25 to 28 gpm simply set cut in switch to cut on at 50 percent of your storage tank and do away with the cut out on booster pump.
That way you are looking at a 5 min refill cycle,unless you are irrigating at more than 25 to 28 gpm you would never run dry. A third tank, piping, slab, building, check valves, and you are already into a 4 figure tab for a fix that any reputable well tech could do for under $100. I would bet that your tech can recomend a cement finisher to do your slab and a carpenter to build your well house and of course he will give the best deal on the trenching and pipe work. As with any operation I would get a second opinion befor I went under the trencher.

 

[BSVLY]

Update:

I timed my tank refill cycle today: it was 40 minutes exactly. Guessing the tank is considered empty at 900 gallons gone, so that equates to: 22.5 gallons per min.

Also, this system is minimizing the number of cycles on the submersible down well pump. I understand it is the start-up torque that wear them out. fewer starts means longer pump life. I'll find out more about the system and the merit of the fixes suggested after my well tech reads this thread this weekend.

Also: there is a mode I can switch to that bypasses the storage tank altogether. I can use this mode in the winter when I am not irrigating. The sub pump runs a lot when It is in this mode during growing season; so I switch to the storage tank then-to, again, minimize pump starts and stops.

Thanks All.

Rich

 

[SPIKER]

I was going to say that with 22GPM submersible pump is a pretty good well and should more than keep up without the 1000gal tank & 2nd booster pump.

I would check with your well tech and see if he can get you a copy of the wiring dia and we can suggest FIX much easier to fit your system.

for most part what it sounds like is you have a single common relay switch that is running the booster or the submersible thru NC or the NO side of the relay. By adding a 2nd float switch that can get power when the booster is OFF it can then turn ON the submersible pump relay (which maybe needs a 2nd relay to do so.)

Mark

 

[Carl_NH]

I agree with Mark also you might consider putting a low pressure (manual cutout switch)http://store.thepumpwarehouse.com/prostores/servlet/-strse-7/SQUARE-D-Pressure-Switch/Detail on the booster pump that will turn the pump off at 20 PSI for "catastrophic" system protection, then on the main well pump 2 HP a pumptec pump saver for the sub in the ground which is your key supply resource. Pumptec Plus

Carl