Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade"

[ovrszd]

Since you're left side link is adjustable then it must be the reference. I think it would be hard to put a scale from the left side over to the right so maybe what you can do is attach a scale to the right side and put a movable pointer on it to indicate the level point relative to your rod. The pointer could be positioned based on a measurement of the length of the left side adjustable link.

Hey, that's an idea. The pointer could be positioned at the top of the rod when level and have a couple settings to match the particular length of the left side. Hmmmmmmmm..... Now ya got me thinkin!!! Thanks for the idea!!!

 

[TripleR]

That's what I was thinking you had.

I found a MR3584 that's been converted to HR. Very straight, no welds, little wear on the front cutting edge and scarifier teeth for $1000. I'm thinking it's a very good buy. My only concern is that my tractor's tire width is 90". Not sure I can deal with that. But the scraper is cheap enough I can sell it if I can't use it that narrow.

I'm having a very hard time finding a 96" that's built heavy enough. I went to my local steel supplier with a list of materials to build one with fixed scarifier bar and it would cost me $900 and then I gotta build it. My supplier is who has the one for sale above. He said I could take it home and use it to see if I liked it and keep it for a pattern if I decided to build one.

I wonder how hard it would be to length one??? With Spring here I hate to commit to a shop project, I wanna be outside....

We may not have our tires set to maximum width as the HR3584 is as wide as our M8540 tread and we have or are supposed to have the same size tires as the M9540. Here is a picture of it on the M8540. I would buy that thing in a minute as it is way cheap compared to my new price.

 

[ovrszd]

We may not have our tires set to maximum width as the HR3584 is as wide as our M8540 tread and we have or are supposed to have the same size tires as the M9540. Here is a picture of it on the M8540. I would buy that thing in a minute as it is way cheap compared to my new price.

Yeah, I'm set one notch wider than you. You can see the difference in the pics at the beginning of this thread, compared to your first pic.

I think you are right, I need to buy that scraper and give it a try. If it doesn't suit me at least I could use it until I get an 8' found or built. Then I could always sell it and recoup my money.

 

[TripleR]

Yeah, I'm set one notch wider than you. You can see the difference in the pics at the beginning of this thread, compared to your first pic.

I think you are right, I need to buy that scraper and give it a try. If it doesn't suit me at least I could use it until I get an 8' found or built. Then I could always sell it and recoup my money.

I hadn't noticed yours was set wider than ours, do you have any clearance issues in the woods? Ours set like it is has proven to be very stable in our hills and using the turning brakes we can get through most places we can take our L5740 if height is not an issue.

The LP HR/MR3584 is not rate for as much horsepower as the M95/8540 puts out, but ours has worked really well and I wanted something I could use on either tractor. Woods offer the Gannon in a 96", but you will stroke out when you see how much a new LP or Woods costs. You could probably use the LP as a template to built your own 96" and have something reasonably priced then sell the LP to cover the cost of materials.

With the scarifiers down, the HR3584 will anchor the M8540 if you allow it to go down very deep and you can move a lot of dirt with it. We use a 10' drag scraper for moving and smoothing more soil in bigger areas or for some road work.

 

[ovrszd]

I hadn't noticed yours was set wider than ours, do you have any clearance issues in the woods? Ours set like it is has proven to be very stable in our hills and using the turning brakes we can get through most places we can take our L5740 if height is not an issue.

Mine was set like yours when I got it. Before I filled the rears with fluid I moved it out a notch. It still can be set out one more notch which would add another 6". So I can't really testify to stability difference. I don't notice any issues in tight terrain. I'm used to it now. The only thing I don't like is my tractor is wider than my loader bucket. Last Fall I was straightening a ditch and leveling the bottom and sloping banks to seed down. I made the flat bottom of the ditch the width of my bucket. My rears were riding up on the slope a little. In AG tractors the next size bigger than ours you never see the rears same width as the bucket. Now I've just accepted it and don't pay much attention.

 

[jinman]

Nice job Richard. That's about as good as it gets; much better than any one you could buy assembled. You have excellent tilt in both directions.

 

[ovrszd]

Nice job Richard. That's about as good as it gets; much better than any one you could buy assembled. You have excellent tilt in both directions.

Thanks for the compliment Jim. I respect your opinion.

 

[1savoy]

How about two of the RV bubble type indicators? One on a standoff off the tractor near the second on the quick attach. Then just adjust the sidelink (quick attach bubble) to match the tractor. Just a thought. Great build by the way and I like the indicator rod, just a matter of making it work.

 

[TripleR]

Mine was set like yours when I got it. Before I filled the rears with fluid I moved it out a notch. It still can be set out one more notch which would add another 6". So I can't really testify to stability difference. I don't notice any issues in tight terrain. I'm used to it now. The only thing I don't like is my tractor is wider than my loader bucket. Last Fall I was straightening a ditch and leveling the bottom and sloping banks to seed down. I made the flat bottom of the ditch the width of my bucket. My rears were riding up on the slope a little. In AG tractors the next size bigger than ours you never see the rears same width as the bucket. Now I've just accepted it and don't pay much attention.

Our renters use a John Deere 7000 for their utility tractor with a bucket and he has duals, so no way does it fit down in anything. For precise work in close quarters they have a JD4610 eHydro, but mostly they use the 7000.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nice job Richard. That's about as good as it gets; much better than any one you could buy assembled. You have excellent tilt in both directions.

I take exception to that statement. :laughing: Here are some pics of the clevis on a side link for an 8540. Don't know why I don't have a complete picture. The black unit is for a john Deere 5085, it has more stroke than an OEM unit. Collapses more and extends more.