Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade"

   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #21  
I'm actually using the nut to hold the rod vertical. Now I'm trying to figure out some way to mark the rod so I know when it's level with the tractor. I'm just like you, I start complicated and then work to simplicity.

I decided to carry the fixed link in case the hydraulic cylinder drifts down when carrying the brush cutter. I'll just switch them out if that happens.

I also thought that I could use those clamp stops that you put on cylinders to keep them from closing too far. Put in the right size stopper and I could just raise the cylinder until it stopped to get level with the cutter.

A work in progress.....

Make the rod something like this.
Bucket level.jpg

Nice work BTW.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #22  
Just build another rod for the manually adjusted link, color coordinate the rods with stripes so that you can tell where each one is adjusted to . You're all done. Only downfall will be that you will need to have standoffs so that the adjustment bars will clear the bar. :(

Nice job by the way. ;)
 
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   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #23  
Maybe both the rod level indicator and a bubble-type level indicator would be beneficial- one to indicate position relative to tractor (position implement to tractor) and one for relative to ground (setting grade/crown on driveway)?
Love the job and had been thumbing through the Surplus Center catalog to piece together same project. Did you use solenoid valves or manual spool valves?
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #24  
Maybe both the rod level indicator and a bubble-type level indicator would be beneficial- one to indicate position relative to tractor (position implement to tractor) and one for relative to ground (setting grade/crown on driveway)?
Love the job and had been thumbing through the Surplus Center catalog to piece together same project. Did you use solenoid valves or manual spool valves?

He has the OEM Kubota manual valves. You can see them in post #1 at the rear of the tractor by the top link bracket.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #25  
Okay, I enlarged the pic on my phone and now see the valves- look like solenoid valves. Do you put restrictors in-line to have better control? I was thinking about 2 spool manual valve for better control.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #26  
Okay, I enlarged the pic on my phone and now see the valves- look like solenoid valves. Do you put restrictors in-line to have better control? I was thinking about 2 spool manual valve for better control.

Those are OEM Kubota manual valves. I have no idea if he is using flow restrictors. Yes I offer them to all of my customers.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade" #27  
I can actually see the rod very easily. If I didn't have an adjustable link on the left side it would be easy to complete. I had also thought about a bubble level on the top of my quick hitch, maybe magnetic that could be moved if needed. Problem with that is it is affected by whether the tractor is sitting on level ground or not. I'm wanting some method to indicate when the 3pt is "level" with the tractor, regardless of what position the tractor is in. I'll bang this around a few days and if I don't come up with a solution, I'll give up. Just hate to be beat..... ;)

Since you're left side link is adjustable then it must be the reference. I think it would be hard to put a scale from the left side over to the right so maybe what you can do is attach a scale to the right side and put a movable pointer on it to indicate the level point relative to your rod. The pointer could be positioned based on a measurement of the length of the left side adjustable link.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade"
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Just build another rod for the manually adjusted link, color coordinate the rods with stripes so that you can tell where each one is adjusted to . You're all done. Only downfall will be that you will need to have standoffs so that the adjustment bars will clear the bar. :(

Nice job by the way. ;)


Yep, I thought of that too. I'm thinking that I'll only use a couple different settings on the left side adjustable link. One setting to get equal up and down. One setting with it completely collapsed to add lift height when using the cutter. If that comes to be true I'd only need two marks on my rod. I'm thinking I'll just use it awhile and see what develops. Might never have a real use for it. Just thought if I could figure out an easy solution it might be handy and quicker to set to level.

Thanks for the compliment Brian.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade"
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Okay, I enlarged the pic on my phone and now see the valves- look like solenoid valves. Do you put restrictors in-line to have better control? I was thinking about 2 spool manual valve for better control.

I am not using restrictors yet. For the top link I don't seem to need one. For the side link it might make adjustments a bit easier. The side link has a bigger impact on the attachment with minimal movement. I've got a bunch of box scraper work to do when it dries up. After a couple days of that I'll better answer whether restrictors are needed or not. That also might be determined by the users tractor and it's hydraulic capacity.

I think if I was buying a kit from Brian or whomever and they offered restrictors I'd probably order them. Could always remove them if not needed and they are pretty cheap.

I don't think I want a restrictor in the top link because I want quick response when using the brush cutter and dropping it into ditches or jumping over stumps.
 
   / Hydraulic Tilt Link "Homemade"
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I have a Land Pride BB2584 and Land Pride HR3584.

That's what I was thinking you had.

I found a MR3584 that's been converted to HR. Very straight, no welds, little wear on the front cutting edge and scarifier teeth for $1000. I'm thinking it's a very good buy. My only concern is that my tractor's tire width is 90". Not sure I can deal with that. But the scraper is cheap enough I can sell it if I can't use it that narrow.

I'm having a very hard time finding a 96" that's built heavy enough. I went to my local steel supplier with a list of materials to build one with fixed scarifier bar and it would cost me $900 and then I gotta build it. My supplier is who has the one for sale above. He said I could take it home and use it to see if I liked it and keep it for a pattern if I decided to build one.

I wonder how hard it would be to length one??? With Spring here I hate to commit to a shop project, I wanna be outside....
 

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