Adding shower in barn, TILE Questions

[SPIKER]

Hey all still working on this utility room,

Added the shower plumbing and taped up the Back Wall and taped the OSB & Durobond taped/coated the OSB in the shower area that will have a Durorock. I went ahead and corner taped the back wall and will double tape the corners when the Wet Wall and OSB Back wall get the Durorock in and re-tape the corners so 2 times the sealing there.






Mark

 

[Dr Dave]

If you glue your liner panels to the wall, be sure to rough up the back side, of the liner panel, with some fine sand paper. Or the glue will not stick, I learned this the hard way.

Dave

 

[stub]

Personally, since this shower is in the barn and not for your wife's bathroom, I'd just tile the floor, put up some plastic shower walls, and caulk the seam with silicone, and let the next guy fix it 20 years from now.

If you want to do it right, they make a real thick rubber/vinyl sheet stuff that's made for under your shower pan and goes up the walls a little ways. This is used for building a shower pan out of concrete or thin-set mortar over a wood subfloor. Google "shower pan mud job". Basically you lay the sheet down into the drain and up the walls a little ways and seal it against itself. Then you mud over it to form your shower pan. Finally you lay your tile on the floor and walls with thin set mortar. The rubber sheet seals the wall and floor joint if it moves and water gets in the cracks it runs down the sheet and into the drain. This is a permanent installation.

 

[jaotguy]

don't forget , they make "epoxy grout" for shower tiles and wet areas ... water proof when dry and no mildew

 

[SPIKER]

...

If you want to do it right, they make a real thick rubber/vinyl sheet stuff that's made for under your shower pan and goes up the walls a little ways. This is used for building a shower pan out of concrete or thin-set mortar over a wood subfloor. Google "shower pan mud job". Basically you lay the sheet down into the drain and up the walls a little ways and seal it against itself. Then you mud over it to form your shower pan. Finally you lay your tile on the floor and walls with thin set mortar. The rubber sheet seals the wall and floor joint if it moves and water gets in the cracks it runs down the sheet and into the drain. This is a permanent installation.

STUB:I saw some "ROLLS" of some sort of "Tile Sealer Sheets" at Menards that were maybe 3' x ? long. I did not look closely at them & I THINK they said Concrete Counter Top Sealer Sheets. I think for use under formed in-place concrete counter tops. Saw them just in passing & best thing was they were in clearance rack. Assuming that one would lay this on the floor and up the sides say 4" and then also apply to the sides/walls and down over the floor layer so it has a fully sealed "surround & floor?

Does it lay on with standard mastic adhesive or does it require some other mastic?

don't forget , they make "epoxy grout" for shower tiles and wet areas ... water proof when dry and no mildew

Jaotguy: that was what I was planning on using on top of adding a final grout sealer just in case.


Questions. I have the DuroRock Boards on the BACK WALL only I also have used the Tile Tape and taped up it's seams and the corners to the walls with no rock on them yet. I figured I can then have an overlapping seam at the Vertical Corners. When I add the Wet Wall and the End Wall Durorock Boards I will then re-tape those corners from Rock to Rock boards (dual tape sealed.)

What I have also done is hold the Rock up off the floor about 1/4 ~ 3/4" depending on Fall so that Bottom Concrete Floor has a GAP that I need to FILL. There is a 50yr Silicone Rubber Seal/Caulk between the Floor & Framing Lumber. What would be best to fill that void with, the "Epoxy Grout" or "Tile Mastic" or ??? I'll try & get over to look at the Vinyl Sheet Tub/Pan sealer stuff this weekend, which I was already thinking about when Stub Mentioned it. I'm Assuming that this VOID has to be filled with something prior to this going in so it has something to seal against.

This is where I stripped the floor I started with a 9" Grinder with a Masonry Disk on it, STUNK (had good Disposable still dusk mask on.)

So I grabbed the Belt Sander with 36 grit Carbide belt on it, a little better but still not great.



so out came the old sand blaster & the once used cabinet Garnet/Black Beauty 40 grit. the "d" or "C" was about 10 seconds to blast so best surface & fastest though clean up and prep was a bear.







I made a decision that is taking me a few steps back today, I increased the size to be more of a Trapezoid than a Rectangle.

I Stripped all the Water Based Floor Sealer & Stain off today,
Shows Back Wall & the VOID at the bottom to be filled this is about 3/8" or so.





This is the FINAL shape of it after the changes. I have to re-plumb my incoming water line now so when I Glass Block the part wall in the lines will be out of the way so if I ever want I can Glass Block it all way to top shelf.



it is (Back Wall) 4' & End WET WALL is 3' while the Back Splash (OSB WALL) is now 4' and when I get to it it will have a 30" wide full height Glass Block side closure wall with a curtain in behind it and that will slide out/over that Crock/Sump where the shower will drain.


So thoughts?

Need answers to FILL VOID with best material to seal/not shrink up.
Best way to Seal Floor to Walls?
Best Mastic to use waterproof plastic stuff or??

Everything was pretty dry, but dropping into freezing and snow tonight !?!?!

thanks
Mark

 

[stub]

The tile sealer sheets sound like what you want. This thread describes the process of installing the PVC shower pan liner: How To Build A Tile Shower Pan | icreatables.com.

I would use thin-set mortar to set your tile. Way better and easier to work with than glue.

 

[stub]

The tile sealer sheets sound like what you want. This thread describes the process of installing the PVC shower pan liner: How To Build A Tile Shower Pan | icreatables.com.

I would use thin-set mortar to set your tile. Way better and easier to work with than glue.

 

[powerpace]

I would carry the precast plastic shower base one step further and get an entire pre-formed plastic shower stall.

Goes in fast, leakproof, and adequate for a shower/bath in a barn. Will never show up in a fashion magazine, but will more than do the job and will be the most economical solution.

P.S. For a dog wash, I would go with a bathtub elevated 24" above the floor with steps for the dog to climb up and get into the tub. Not only will this save your back, the thought of getting into a stall shower with a dog is not particularly appealing. Are you planning on doing this clothed or naked? No matter how docile the dog, at some point it will look like a melee but the dog has sharper claws and teeth...

I'm with Dave on this one. One piece shower. That is what we have in our barn. Drains under the cement floor planned after we bought the show to make sure the shower drain would connect to the septic line and still have room for a P trap. We lived in the living quarters of the barn six months before the house was finished. Now I have a great shop with full bath, laundry and kitchen. I cleanup at the shop after a particular messy day.
Tile is much harder to take care of than plastic. The house has a big tile shower. It took two guys four days to finish. First greenboard on the walls, three layers of waterproof membrane on the whole bathroom floor, waterproof membrane (three layers) on floor and walls. then tile. Bath room is 9X11 shower is 5X7 no door. If you don't seal the tile there will be problems and tile is harder to take care of.

 

[SPIKER]

Hi Gus: Been busy doing a bunch of stuff, got mower fixed and worked on the tractor & trimmed a bunch of trees. FINALLY got back to working on the barn Utility Room some.
Pics are thumbnails so click for larger ones.

I started by cleaning, Coating and painting the OSB wall & went ahead and stapled up & cut to fit the Black Plastic leaving bottom free for the liner to go under it.



Here is the Tile Underlay getting fitted.


I Spanished the OSB wall with Durobond 90 and then followed that up with a painting of DRYLOCK Paint to waterproof it better. I also painted & Smooth Coated the OSB in the shower stall area, once that drys well I'll put up plastic and the DUROCK. Went ahead and put the Radiant Tubing back onto the wall so that is getting a bit closer to running.


The splaters/droppings of the DUROBOND90 pulled up some of the floor finish (NEVER BUY RUSTOLIUM STUFF AGAIN!)

Some of the FUN I been having did the first Mowing thru the Plumb Blossoms some of the sweetest smelling blossoms EVER just pure pleasure setting between the rows smelling them.


Some of the Pear also Blooming almost full bloom now.




I also have the chance for a quick walk in the woods



Nope not sharing lol


Mark

 

[SPIKER]

Just thought I would put in an update, I have been getting all my stuff together to go back to school, going to get me a BSEE degree! anyhow with my grant secured, and now enrolled into UA (University of Akron) I went back to the barn for more work.

I have all the Durock installed, and switched to working outside a lot.
I finished off the washing machine wall and this is a storm shelter area JUST IN CASE... the built in bathroom is really making some headway anyhow.




Today I put in the fan and finished off the Durock but weather moved in and I didnt want to tape it up just yet and weather killed my back and motivation... I'm hoping to get it all taped up this weekend if the humidity is down some. I also have garden tilling to do mowing (grass going nuts) and hopefully finding some MORE Morels!

Mark