Loader Drilling a hole or 2 in the loader: a good idea or not?

[davel8257]

Hi,

I've been looking at clamp-on pallet forks. I'm not sure that I'm crazy about the clamp design and the pressure that it puts out on the front of the loader. My Kioti loader has 7 holes pre-drilled in the front already (double-thick steel lip). I'm thinking that the holes on either side of center would be about the right distance for pallet forks.

Why couldn't I drill 2 matching holes into the bottom of the loader, toward the back. Then, to create a set of (non-adjustable) pallet forks, I could buy some heavy "C" Channel, and drill 2 matching holes in 2 pieces and bolt them up underneath of the bucket.

Granted, they would not have any adjustment to the width -- they either work or wouldn't work going into a pallet, but for cutting wood, general lifting, etc... I could live with that design. I'm pretty sure I could live with the price tag (aka 'cheap').

If the loader seemed 'thin', I could run a piece of heavy angle steel inside the bucket between the bolts for added reinforcement. When I'm not using the forks, I could 'fill in' the holes with a stubby carriage bolt and nut and just live with the intrusion inside my bucket.

Any thoughts?

Thanks...

 

[paulharvey]

I believe your talking about drilling the hardened tool steel cutting edge. Hard to do, probably take several bits to get though, making small pilot hole and working up to 1/2". Should not torch cut the cutting edge, will ruin its temper.

 

[davel8257]

I believe your talking about drilling the hardened tool steel cutting edge. Hard to do, probably take several bits to get though, making small pilot hole and working up to 1/2". Should not torch cut the cutting edge, will ruin its temper.

The front edge has factory holes already in place. 7 of them. They start at each edge, 3 on a side and one in the middle. I've already increased the size of the middle hole (1/2" or 5/8") to accommodate a 2" trailer ball so that I can move a trailer around the yard if I already have something on the back.

I'd be drilling into the bottom of the loader -- single layer of steel (probably 1/4" thick). I'd have to start pilot hole and step up. I might see what 3/8" looks like, perhaps use Grade 8 bolts. Since the bottom is flat, I would think that the "C" channel and flat plat would 'mate' and act as a single piece of thick steel (yes, I realize that's not scientifically accurate).

 

[IndyIan]

Sounds like a great idea to me, the rear holes won't affect anything. You may come to appreciate why pallet forks are thin at the tips, but if you add some boards to jack up your skids you can get some extra space to fit larger tips under. I've had the full capacity of the loaders curl function on one point in the middle of the bucket edge (lifting one end of a big rock)and it stayed pretty much straight so you should be fine with 2 points for the forks.

 

[powerpace]

I've got holes all over mine but not the cutting edge.

 

[davel8257]

Last summer during the drought, I used the loader to haul water out to the garden, (collect in rain barrels, then pour the barrel out into the loader). I'd want to plug up those holes once in a while when not using the forks. I have yet to move any sand or other fine material.

The new Northern Tool catalogue has clamp on forks. The clamps with a simple receiver hitch is $119 -- that's 25-30% of the pallet fork cost right there.

I'm leaning toward trying this. I might get some time this weekend to get started on it.

 

[kiotiken]

IMHO, clamp on forks are not the right way to go, especially for your tractor. Smaller FEL's with the load way in front of the bucket can't lift much weight, so they don't always destroy the bucket, but your loader is strong enough to bend your bucket fairly easily.

You can get a good set of SSQA forks for around $400, cheaper if you watch equipment auctions (and still new). You'll get the full potential out of your loader more safely and without damaging your bucket. The drop in lift capacity is amazing the further out you go and that's a big deal when you're picking up a skid that's going to stick out another 4'.

I'm not sure how much it would cost to convert your loader to SSQA, but you'll find it more than worth the cost. I'll often switch between forks and bucket several times in an afternoon, once you get the hang of it, it's a 30 second switch.

 

[mj007]

.....The drop in lift capacity is amazing the further out you go and that's a big deal when you're picking up a skid that's going to stick out another 4'.....

That is FOR sure!

 

[davel8257]

I'll often switch between forks and bucket several times in an afternoon, once you get the hang of it, it's a 30 second switch.

I've not had my bucket off -- I took off the entire framework just for practice. I wasn't sure how much the bucket would move after it was released and thereby require some 'jiggling' in order to get it lined up so that it would go back on the mount. If you are right, then making the investment in a good set of SSQA forks does sound very interesting to me (makes more sense than $400 for clamp on forks).

I think I'd also want to weigh the merits of also having the bucket still on the tractor. If I'm working on firewood, then forks for lifting, cutting is good. But, also have an 8 cubic foot bucket for loading up firewood cut to length for transport back to the truck would be useful. (Capacity might be augmented by the addition of the forks sticking out in front.).

 

[kiotiken]

Once I figured out exactly were to look while lining up for the switch, I can hit it first time every time now. What takes the longest is opening the door, jumping off the tractor, pulling the SSQA lever and getting back on the tractor. You then have to do it all again after the switch. Still a lot easier and faster than pulling out a wrench.

I bought firewood bags this year. I block my wood then it goes on the spliter and then DIRECTLY into the bag that is sitting on a skid. When the bag is full, it is tied closed, the metal frame used to hold the bag open is removed and the tractor picks up the skid. The skids are also stackable which is great. Of course, if you're transporting the wood, you need the tractor at both ends, so that might not help you.

There have been threads here about people trying to figure out what's wrong with their loader because they couldn't pick up a 1/4 cord of firewood with clamp on forks. I'm sure you could find the actual numbers but there is a HUGE loss of lift capacity for every foot you move away from the pivot point.

 

[davel8257]

I've not heard of firewood bags... this could be a whole new topic.

Firewood cutting and transport is part of what I want to do. I'm weary of having flat tires on my log splitter. I'm thinking that I could remove the wheels and strap it down to a pallet and transport it on a pallet and use (still on the pallet).

I have another lifting project in mind as well -- the stability and extra capacity would probably be a good feature that I should consider.

 

[IndyIan]

The maximum force you can put on the front edge of the bucket with the tractor hydraulics stays pretty the same weither you have a long lever or none, if the lever goes all the to the back of the bucket.
Now if you lift up the biggest load you can, then drives fast over rough ground, bouncing the tractor then you could expect to start bending the bucket pretty quickly.
Also I think you have a SSQA, do you see two levers behind the bucket? Its super easy to switch buckets, flip both levers and tilt the bucket forward and slowly drop it to the ground, then back away. Go scoop up the next bucket and flip the levers back.

 

[kiotiken]

This is pretty much what I have. Fast Firewood B120 Firewood Bag - YouTube I paid about $2/bag and they are reusable most of the time. I think you'll find you'll put everything on a pallet once you have pallet forks!

 

[kiotiken]

The maximum force you can put on the front edge of the bucket with the tractor hydraulics stays pretty the same weither you have a long lever or none, if the lever goes all the to the back of the bucket.
Now if you lift up the biggest load you can, then drives fast over rough ground, bouncing the tractor then you could expect to start bending the bucket pretty quickly.
Also I think you have a SSQA, do you see two levers behind the bucket? Its super easy to switch buckets, flip both levers and tilt the bucket forward and slowly drop it to the ground, then back away. Go scoop up the next bucket and flip the levers back.

A little off topic, but do you have one or two levers? My CK30 had 2, my DK has a single lever.

 

[Redneck in training]

Last summer during the drought, I used the loader to haul water out to the garden, (collect in rain barrels, then pour the barrel out into the loader). I'd want to plug up those holes once in a while when not using the forks. I have yet to move any sand or other fine material.

The new Northern Tool catalogue has clamp on forks. The clamps with a simple receiver hitch is $119 -- that's 25-30% of the pallet fork cost right there.

I'm leaning toward trying this. I might get some time this weekend to get started on it.

Do not drill a hole. Weld or have somebody weld a large nut to the loader. Then when in not use screw a short greased bolt in it. Alternatively you can weld a bolt there.

 

[IndyIan]

A little off topic, but do you have one or two levers? My CK30 had 2, my DK has a single lever.

Single lever on my loader but the pics I see of the 402 always have two.
You'll have show us the firewood bag and skid setup, I have been thinking about how move firewood on skids. Didn't think of the bags though.

 

[davel8257]

A little off topic, but do you have one or two levers? My CK30 had 2, my DK has a single lever.

I have one lever.

 

[davel8257]

Do not drill a hole. Weld or have somebody weld a large nut to the loader. Then when in not use screw a short greased bolt in it. Alternatively you can weld a bolt there.

I'm not sure I know what you mean. This might work on top or back of the bucket. I guess this might work on the inside if I were going to run the back of my forks into the inside of my bucket, but I was going to run the steel underneath the bucket. I would not want a protrusion on the bottom of the bucket.

Maybe I'm on different page...?

 

[kiotiken]

I just sent Dave a PM with the link, but here it is for everybody else. VERY nice guy to deal with and I was actually shocked how fast they arrived. I believe he's down near London Ont. but he may ship to the US, I'm not sure. I welded up a simple frame and it works really well. I've cut the number of times I have to pick up each piece of wood by at least 3 or 4, and when you see that log truck pull up and think about lifting that load by hand 6 times, you really start to appreciate it. I also made a dolly out of a skid and 4 casters (although I'll be replacing them with stronger ones this year). I bring a skid over with the tractor, put it on the dolly which is on the back deck and then push it up against the back wall of the house and cover it with a tarp. Each bag is slightly less than 1 face cord.

BAG Supplies Canada Ltd :: Cubic Firewood Nets

 

[kiotiken]

Single lever on my loader but the pics I see of the 402 always have two.
You'll have show us the firewood bag and skid setup, I have been thinking about how move firewood on skids. Didn't think of the bags though.

Check out the youtube link I posted above, my set up is identical to his, I just don't have a mill. I go from my splitter to the bag. I put two full bags side by side and then one on top in the middle to make a row. After I have all my rows, I cover the whole thing with a silage tarp. The DK 40+ and DS4510 guys are fine, but my CK30 wouldn't lift a full bag (I had to under fill them and that doesn't work) and certainly wouldn't stack them. From the charts I've seen, green hardwood is about 2200-2600# per face cord and since this is slightly less than a face cord, it's around 2000#.