Flail Mower Flail Mower ID

[mangus580]

I picked up a flail mower tonight for $200. It appears to be a 6' cut. I have NO clue what brand/model it is. There are NO tags/labels on it anywhere. I know it needs probably 2 new bearings for the main shaft (one is clearly bad), and will need some new knifes. Even in its current state, it cuts pretty nice though!

Can anyone ID it for me so I can start locating parts, and maybe a manual? Also, I saw in conversation elsewhere that they are supposed to 'float' on the hitch? I dont see how that is possible with this mower? I also need to figure out what to use for a 'debris shield' on the back.

Any advise will be greatly appreciated!!

 

[sodamo]

Looks to me like you got a great deal. Sorry I can't help with ID, but I'm sure Leon will be along with all the info.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[Arc weld]

It is definitely a Mott heavy duty 72" flail with the ring mount "Hammer knives". Alamo bought Mott after the owner(Elmer Mott) died in a crash, landing his airplane on his private airstrip outside Chicago. My dad was very good friends with him and the biggest seller of hydraulic drive, side mount Mott Interstators when they first came out in the 70's. He sold almost half of the first 100 made. Elmers dad was an engineer at IH when he developed his new mower but IH wasn't interested so he went on his own. It is a very good flail mower. The original flail mower actually. Other makers have copied the blade design after the patents expired. The knives use less power than a comparable rotary mower and are self cleaning. The self cleaning properties were tested in pig manure.

I don't think they make the HD model anymore, only the Super Heavy Duty, but all parts should still be available. This model was made for years. Compare the thickness of the deck to other makes and you'll see a big difference. The rear roller is adjustable for the height of cut and it rides on that. You don't have to have a debris shield on the back but if you want you could use a piece of rubber. The cutter bearings are Sealmaster but I don't know the part number. There are grease fittings in the roller bearings as well. I think there is a parts breakdown on the Alamo website. Buy the Alamo cotter pins for the pins that hold the knives on. They are flat on one side so they sit against the mount and don't turn. Another trick I remember about this model was to leave the 2 outermost knives off (one on each end) so they wouldn't hit the end plates. With the Mott knives you have to keep the PTO speed up at 540 or they will actually stretch. It was a weird phenomenon were the bend in the knives would move up. The knives are reversible if they get dull. I think that is a forward rotation cutter shaft but not sure if it's a fine or coarse cut. The drive belt is also specially designed specifically for Mott. It has a spring loaded automatic tensioner. The gearbox is the same as on the Super Heavy Duty models. Hope this helps. I put knives on Mott's when I was a kid helping dad.

Just looked at the picture of the knives again. It looks like those style use bolts instead of pins and cotter pins. It looks in great shape and just needs some paint and a little TLC. Should last you a lifetime.

 

[CliffordK]

If you're sure you have to pull the bearings, go ahead and pull one and take it to your local bearing shop. They should be able to match it, especially if there are numbers & brand marks on them. Also oil seals.

If you have numbers, you may also find them with an internet search, or at a local auto parts store.

 

[mangus580]

What defines it as a heavy duty, vs the super heavy duty?

 

[Arc weld]

All Mott's are very well built machines. The first models were just called Heavy Duty. The Super Heavy Duty are just that, Super Heavy Duty. A new SHD cost's around $4500-$5000. The HD has a 2 1/2" cutter shaft and the SHD has a 4 1/2" cutter shaft. They are designed for cutting grass and weeds and not brush but will cut the tallest, thickest grass you could find, often in one pass.

 

[mangus580]

So is there a specific model # to reference? is it HD74? or something like that? Trying to figure out what to reference for parts.

 

[mangus580]

Also, it would be helpful if I can find a PDF version of both parts and operators manuals...

 

[leonz]

I picked up a flail mower tonight for $200. It appears to be a 6' cut. I have NO clue what brand/model it is. There are NO tags/labels on it anywhere. I know it needs probably 2 new bearings for the main shaft (one is clearly bad), and will need some new knifes. Even in its current state, it cuts pretty nice though!

Can anyone ID it for me so I can start locating parts, and maybe a manual? Also, I saw in conversation elsewhere that they are supposed to 'float' on the hitch? I dont see how that is possible with this mower? I also need to figure out what to use for a 'debris shield' on the back.

Any advise will be greatly appreciated!!

View attachment 317868 View attachment 317869 View attachment 317870 View attachment 317871

Looks to me like you got a great deal. Sorry I can't help with ID, but I'm sure Leon will be along with all the info.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

It is definitely a Mott heavy duty 72" flail with the ring mount "Hammer knives". Alamo bought Mott after the owner(Elmer Mott) died in a crash, landing his airplane on his private airstrip outside Chicago. My dad was very good friends with him and the biggest seller of hydraulic drive, side mount Mott Interstators when they first came out in the 70's. He sold almost half of the first 100 made. Elmers dad was an engineer at IH when he developed his new mower but IH wasn't interested so he went on his own. It is a very good flail mower. The original flail mower actually. Other makers have copied the blade design after the patents expired. The knives use less power than a comparable rotary mower and are self cleaning. The self cleaning properties were tested in pig manure.

I don't think they make the HD model anymore, only the Super Heavy Duty, but all parts should still be available. This model was made for years. Compare the thickness of the deck to other makes and you'll see a big difference. The rear roller is adjustable for the height of cut and it rides on that. You don't have to have a debris shield on the back but if you want you could use a piece of rubber. The cutter bearings are Sealmaster but I don't know the part number. There are grease fittings in the roller bearings as well. I think there is a parts breakdown on the Alamo website. Buy the Alamo cotter pins for the pins that hold the knives on. They are flat on one side so they sit against the mount and don't turn. Another trick I remember about this model was to leave the 2 outermost knives off (one on each end) so they wouldn't hit the end plates. With the Mott knives you have to keep the PTO speed up at 540 or they will actually stretch. It was a weird phenomenon were the bend in the knives would move up. The knives are reversible if they get dull. I think that is a forward rotation cutter shaft but not sure if it's a fine or coarse cut. The drive belt is also specially designed specifically for Mott. It has a spring loaded automatic tensioner. The gearbox is the same as on the Super Heavy Duty models. Hope this helps. I put knives on Mott's when I was a kid helping dad.

Just looked at the picture of the knives again. It looks like those style use bolts instead of pins and cotter pins. It looks in great shape and just needs some paint and a little TLC. Should last you a lifetime.

If you're sure you have to pull the bearings, go ahead and pull one and take it to your local bearing shop. They should be able to match it, especially if there are numbers & brand marks on them. Also oil seals.

If you have numbers, you may also find them with an internet search, or at a local auto parts store.

What defines it as a heavy duty, vs the super heavy duty?

All Mott's are very well built machines. The first models were just called Heavy Duty. The Super Heavy Duty are just that, Super Heavy Duty. A new SHD cost's around $4500-$5000. The HD has a 2 1/2" cutter shaft and the SHD has a 4 1/2" cutter shaft. They are designed for cutting grass and weeds and not brush but will cut the tallest, thickest grass you could find, often in one pass.

So is there a specific model # to reference? is it HD74? or something like that? Trying to figure out what to reference for parts.

Also, it would be helpful if I can find a PDF version of both parts and operators manuals...

Hello Mangus580

I want to welcome you as the newest member of ther Flail Mower Nation.

It appears that you have a Mott finish cut 72 inch flailmower with side slicer knives.

I double checked because you do not have the high flow trash doors on the rear of the mower.

you can get all the parts you need from flailmaster including flail rotor bearings, D ring knive hangers, rear roller bearings, side slicer-grass blades, trash guards etc.


Please send an e-mail to Flail-Master - Mower Replacement Parts, Commercial Riding Mower Parts, Rotary Cutter Parts, Blade grinders, Trimmer Line, Mowing Accessories - Flail Master - Flailmaster - with very definitive /close up photos of your new find and they will help you with what ever parts you need.


I mention flailmaster because the have a bigger parts inventory and they are closer to you and me here in New York State as Clean Cutter is in California.

The V belts can be obtained locally-be sure to purchase the green kevlar belts as they absorb shock loads better.



Be sure to chain up the mower so it does not grow legs.

A new mower of that size goes well above $6000.00 these days new.

Please post any more questions you may have here on the forum when needed.

Happy Mowing.

Only 19,815 mowers to go.
_________________________________________________________Once you go flail you never go backl!
Pronovost or not at all!

 

[Arc weld]

Try contacting Alamo directly for a manual and parts list. They were built into the 80's I believe. It is just the 72" heavy duty model with the smaller diameter cutter shaft and ring mount knives.

 

[mangus580]

Had to see how it worked in the yard tonight... I can clearly see where the missing knifes are! LOL

Now, I want a 48-60" version for my little tractor! The 72" is a little big for smaller lawn mowing.... Although I could settle into it I am sure - just requires more trim work which I hate.


Can anyone explain the proper way I should have it mounted on the 3pt? I see references to replacing the lift links on the 3pt with chains? What can I do to make swapping the mower out with other implements not painful? Do new 3pt hitches not float well enough for the mower to follow the ground right?

 

[leonz]

Had to see how it worked in the yard tonight... I can clearly see where the missing knifes are! LOL

Now, I want a 48-60" version for my little tractor! The 72" is a little big for smaller lawn mowing.... Although I could settle into it I am sure - just requires more trim work which I hate.


Can anyone explain the proper way I should have it mounted on the 3pt? I see references to replacing the lift links on the 3pt with chains? What can I do to make swapping the mower out with other implements not painful? Do new 3pt hitches not float well enough for the mower to follow the ground right?

NO!!! you use the top link and the twin lower links
and be sure to fully retract the rigth lower link if it adjustable.

Many owners simply build a wheeled dolly out of 6 by 6's to set thier mowers on to make mounting and dismounting them easier.


Some folks use chains to better follow the ground contour in some cases
but its not at all necessary.

You simply have to adjust the top link properly to assure the mower does not nose dive when mowing the contour- just be sure to use a torpedo level to make sure it is level from front to back when making the top link adjustment, thats all you need to do after you set the height of cut by adjusting the height of the rear roller which is what regualtes the cutting hieght of the flailmower after you have the top link leveled.



Be sure to change the gear oil as I am sure it has water in it.


The larger mower will save you time onece you become more comfortable with it and
you will see how much better it cuts when you have it properly adjusted.

Please do not run it anymore with the blades missing as that will put that much more stress
on the bearings until you replace them with two new ones-YES two new ones.

Please PM me if you are serious about obtaining a 48 inch flailmower-BUT I dont think you will want to purchase a second unit when you begin mowing and see how well it does.

 

[Arc weld]

Adjust it like a rototiller with the gearbox level and use the roller on the back to set the cutting height. It should have skid shoes as well but shouldn't really ride on them all the time. You could use the top link for a little more adjustability. Have the 3 pt. arms level from one side to the other. No need to use chains on it for 95% of mowing jobs. Missing knives, expect the two very end one's will cause the cutter shaft to be out of balance and may make it vibrate. Unless it fits a quick hitch, there's not much you can do to make it easier to mount. With practice they aren't too hard to mount. You stole that mower for $200:cool2: Why not get used to it before you look for a smaller one? Just make sure to run it at 540 RPM like it was designed for.

 

[mangus580]

I actually think I can make it fit my quick hitch.... I should look into that.

I hope to order bearings and knifes as soon as I figure out exactly which ones to buy.


The biggest reason I also want a 48" is for my little Bolens Iseki that I have. its only a 15hp rating, and its MUCH more maneuverable than the LS for general lawn duty. I have some trees I cant get under, and some spots in general I just cant fit at all with the bigger tractor.

 

[sodamo]

Maybe you can put this one in top shape and sell it for the smaller one.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[8404]

i put chains on mine because i use it to mow ditches and uneven slopes. it helps keep the cutter flat on the ground and takes the stress off the hitch parts when you cross uneven areas.
the chains on the flail mower braces are used because i replaced my rear roller with bush hog style tail wheels.

 

[mangus580]

Maybe you can put this one in top shape and sell it for the smaller one.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

I am greedy - I want BOTH!!

I am working on restoring a Wood RM60 right now that I was going to use behind the bolens.... but its a touch heavy for it, and after the little I have used this Flail.... I am HOOKED!

 

[whirly]

Here is a parts list for the mot 60 & 72 flail mower:

http://cwaiii.com/images/mott utility 60 & 72.pdf

The "D" ring blades are not listed and I "believe" they were an after market replacement. However, Flail Master has anything you may need including the belts.

 

[Arc weld]

Fantastic you found a manual and posted it:thumbsup: The ring mount knives are not aftermarket. They are original Mott. I think the ring mount knives for HD models came after the success of them on the SHD models. Users like that the ring mount knives can swivel in all directions if small obstacles are encountered. The HD models were around for quite a while before the SHD models came out. If you look closely at the parts diagram, it shows the ring mount knives and rings, bolts and nuts, etc. The manual also has a very good explanation of why chains are used. If your tractor doesn't have float on the lift arms you use the chains. Mott always had very good manuals and assembly instructions. The Interstator manuals were very straight forward which was important because they were somewhat complex. I know Mott specified to use teflon tape ONLY on the hyd. fittings and not paste.