Bush Hog top link & quick hitch

[DaButcher]

I haven't found the right combination for the Bush Hog top link and HF quick hitch yet. I've tried raising and lowering the QH and not satisfied yet, any suggestions?

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[nybirdman]

I would loosen the top link a little,you want the BH to "float".Set cutting height with three point lift arms and tail wheel.

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmm,, not sure what you mean by not satisfied yet.

It doesn't look like you are going to get much "float" action because the tip of the Quick Hitch top link is going to hit the swivel pin on the BH tower if the tail wheel tries to go up over something. I like a LOT of float on a brush cutter but I'm using mine in rough terrain.

As for moving the QH top link position. That gets technical. Geometrically technical. Will cause the cutter to lift wierd. In one setting you might not be able to get the tail wheel off the ground very far so you shorten the tractor top link and then you have no droop action of the tailwheel. In another setting you might get the opposite effect. That's why CAT I QH's have adjustable top links. That allows the user to correct these wierd lift actions. That's just something you gotta experiment with to find what works the best.

Personally I never thought the Bush Hog cutters hitch assembly allows enough vertical float movement. Then by adding the QH you limited it even more. You may find that the attachment works much better on your tractor if you eliminate the QH and hook it direct to the tractor.

 

[DaButcher]

I had it looser and lower and a couple times it came unhooked

 

[ovrszd]

I had it looser and lower and a couple times it came unhooked

Yeah, I think that's also a possible problem. Sorry to say, you may get along better by eliminating the QH. Another alternative would be to redesign the BH tower. But I'd try without the QH before I went to that much work.

 

[ovrszd]

By redesigning I mean make the two flatbar straps that go to the rear of the cutter foldable to get the float you desire. Then eliminate the swiveling bracket that you currently hook to. That would keep the tower of the cutter fixed to the QH because your QH toplink would then hook on the current swivel bolt of the tower. All of the float would happen away from the QH and eliminate all that binding and coming unhooked.

 

[radrock]

I never have purchase a QH because it always looks as if it could come unhooked. I use my Bush Hog finish mower most of all and it is a floating hitch like DaButcher's. I wonder why they don't make a retaining bracket or something for the top link like the bottom ones? I keep all of those moving parts sprayed with graphite spray for lubrication so that would most likely increase the likelihood of that top coming out even more. Guess I will keep putting my attachements on the old fashion way :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

I never have purchase a QH because it always looks as if it could come unhooked. I use my Bush Hog finish mower most of all and it is a floating hitch like DaButcher's. I wonder why they don't make a retaining bracket or something for the top link like the bottom ones? I keep all of those moving parts sprayed with graphite spray for lubrication so that would most likely increase the likelihood of that top coming out even more. Guess I will keep putting my attachements on the old fashion way :thumbsup:

Normally the top link pin on an attachment is in a fixed position in regards to distance from the bottom pins. Thus, it can't come unhooked when using a QH. But in Bush Hog's case they created a swinging top bracket to get cutter float. With the tractor hooked directly to the cutter this is not a problem and if the rear of the cutter raises, the swinging bracket swings down due to the weight of the tractor top link and all is well.

When using the QH, and having the rear of the cutter raise, the top hook of the QH comes in contact with the swivel pin on the tower of the cutter. So he has little or no float and is at risk of the hook coming unhooked during motion.

That's why I suggested modifying the cutter by making the two flatiron straps fold for float and hooking the QH to the swivel pin of the cutter tower.

I have saw some QH's that come with a swinging top link bracket that allows the top link to be pinned to whatever attachment is being used. But in this case that wouldn't work either because it would still get bound up during movement.

I've got 5 3pt attachments for my tractor. Only one did not have to be modified in some manner to fit my CAT II QH. That was my JD 1008 brush cutter. It hooked right up and works like a champ. Good thing since it weighs over 1000lbs and can't be wiggled around to hook up. I can hitch and unhitch using the QH in a matter of a few seconds and only get off the tractor to deal with the PTO shaft and latch/unlatch the QH.

 

[radrock]

That's why I suggested modifying the cutter by making the two flatiron straps fold for float and hooking the QH to the swivel pin of the cutter tower.
QUOTE]

I guess it is still too early for me. I can't get the picture in my head... I only have three rear attachment. The other two I hardly use now days. Box Blade, 6 foot blade. I sold my rock rake, I have a ratchet rake now that does about anything that I really need to do. I can see the QH being a nice addition if I was changing things all of the time. I was thinking if there was something on that top link kind of like a pintle hitch works. That top would set down on top of the pin and lock. I'm sure something could be figured out.

Hey have you been on the Heavy Equipment site? It sure seems to have died down but I think it does so because of summertime. Everyone is busy...

 

[ovrszd]

If you look at his pictures, the pin at the top of the cutter tower that the hitch assembly swings on is in a fixed position in regards to the lower 3pt arm pins. So if his QH top hook hooked on that pin it could not come unhooked because the vertical distance between that pin and the lower pins is always the same. For it to then come unhooked you would have to unlatch the QH and let the lowers come unhooked as well.

Then modify the two flatiron straps that go to the rear of the cutter and hinge them in the middle. This would allow the rear of the cutter to raise and lower with terrain changes without changing the dynamics between the QH and the cutter tower.

I got along without a QH on my CAT I tractor because I could usually wiggle the attachment around or physically roll the tractor a little forward or rearward to get hooked on. When I went to CAT II size, that option went away. So the QH became a closer friend.

Haven't been on HEF for awhile. Wanna go on there and discuss the latest EPA change coming. Interim Tier IV is just that,,,, interim. Deere and CAT will be building equipment that requires Urea by the end of the year........ Bummer......

 

[DaButcher]

The mower did work fine without the QH, thought maybe there would be a mod to keep the float action and the quick hitch. I haven't given up yet on making it work. My small tractor shredder has a chain at the end of the flat bar that lifts it from the top link, so modifying the BH to similar may be an option.

 

[radrock]

If you look at his pictures, the pin at the top of the cutter tower that the hitch assembly swings on is in a fixed position in regards to the lower 3pt arm pins. So if his QH top hook hooked on that pin it could not come unhooked because the vertical distance between that pin and the lower pins is always the same. For it to then come unhooked you would have to unlatch the QH and let the lowers come unhooked as well.

Then modify the two flatiron straps that go to the rear of the cutter and hinge them in the middle. This would allow the rear of the cutter to raise and lower with terrain changes without changing the dynamics between the QH and the cutter tower.

I got along without a QH on my CAT I tractor because I could usually wiggle the attachment around or physically roll the tractor a little forward or rearward to get hooked on. When I went to CAT II size, that option went away. So the QH became a closer friend.

Haven't been on HEF for awhile. Wanna go on there and discuss the latest EPA change coming. Interim Tier IV is just that,,,, interim. Deere and CAT will be building equipment that requires Urea by the end of the year........ Bummer......

Ok, I have the picture now. Along with some more coffee hahaha. You would have to make the flat iron longer than they are now as you would not get any free movement going over a hump. You would in a valley. I don't know how much you would need. Probably only an inch or a little more. I can see the problem with CAT II implements. Sometime a 6' box blade can be a little over bearing for me. I try to keep it on the level cause is it a lot easier.

I haven't seen much on HEF lately, I posted on there that our company is demoing a Volvo Grader. I have not been around it but have to go to the job site tomorrow. Our other blade operator is trying it out. Forman said they were getting a New Cat blade for sure and I think I may get it. I demo'd a 140M about 4-5 years ago. The 160 I run is getting pretty old and lots of hours. I think you run a deere don't you? I really wanted to demo a 662 GP but I don't see that happening. Oh well. I figure anything that is a tight blade would be rather nice. hahaha.

 

[ovrszd]

The mower did work fine without the QH, thought maybe there would be a mod to keep the float action and the quick hitch. I haven't given up yet on making it work. My small tractor shredder has a chain at the end of the flat bar that lifts it from the top link, so modifying the BH to similar may be an option.

Yep, I totally understand what you're trying to do. I've saw several cutter use a chain. Never hear of anyone having a problem with that solution. Although the thought of the chain somehow getting loose and wrapping itself in the PTO shaft always freaked me out.

Keep us posted on your progress and solution. Ya never know, ya might create something that everyone wants!!!! Kinda like Pat's Easy Change system. Just an ole country guy with an idea.

 

[radrock]

The mower did work fine without the QH, thought maybe there would be a mod to keep the float action and the quick hitch. I haven't given up yet on making it work. My small tractor shredder has a chain at the end of the flat bar that lifts it from the top link, so modifying the BH to similar may be an option.

I have an idea,,, How would it work if you attached a spring or bungee cord to keep it from bouncing out. I can see it would be easy to attach to the pin but not for sure where to attach the other end. I'm gonna go look at my mower for ideas

 

[radrock]

I have a top link pin that has a ring on the end of it and a linch pin on the other You could hook the end of the bungee on the ends of it and around as indicated and it should keep it from bouncing out. Just an idea...

 

[bcp]

Maybe this? Replace the top link with a chain section. Or make a top link from flat bars with a loose joint in the middle. Or use chain or jointed rear support bars.

Take the flex out of the hitch itself and put it someplace else.

Bruce

 

[dusty3030]

There is an adaptor you need. It replaces the top hook of your qh with an eye, it is for this problem. Search the forum and you will find it. I think it is less than $20 shipped from harbor freight.

 

[dusty3030]

Here is a picture of it.

 

[NICKB304]

Get rid of the flex link. Hook into the top pin with the QH hook and replace the bars that go from the top pin to the rear of the mower with chain. Do you have a rear remote with a float position? It would be an expensive but handy solution to get a hydraulic top link that you could put in the float position when traversing uneven terrain. Another option would be to get rid of the top pin A-frame all together and run a chain from the back of the mower to a pin in an unused hole in your QH top hook adjustment. How often do you need to pick the mower up? Could you run it only using the bottom pins and not worry about the top? That is how I use my old john deere #5 sickle mower, bottom pins only.


2012-08-09_17-25-50_557 by nickb304, on Flickr



2012-08-09_17-26-45_887 by nickb304, on Flickr

 

[DaButcher]

Thanks for all the suggestions! Solution is on hold for a while, just broke a blade on a stump. I'll probably try the top link adapter from HF or just mow without the QH for now. At some point I will make the QH work with the mower though, most likely a winter project.