Adding compressor to 220v in my garage

   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #31  
I've seen a 2nd electrical breaker panel exclusively for 240V baseboard heating. Of course the confusion starts when Mr Homeowner tries to add a 120V circuit and there is no neutral. Worse yet when the knob connects to the ground.
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #32  
3HP unit Porter Cable unit in my garage has built in factory thermal protection.

really, in all the many smaller 60-80 gal units iv hooked up over the years, ive never seen one with thermals. than again, there all cheap units like my lowes compressor. Its a cheap single stage unit. I should have opted to wait till i could afford a nice US made 2 stage unit.

its nice to know that there are some out there. I was looking at a nice screw compressor for my shop replacement (in future) and that had an actual motor starter system. but too expensive at this time.
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #33  
For the electricians here: Wouldn't having a 50A sub-panel require a four-conductor feed, that is two hot wires, a neutral, and an equipment(case) ground? OP states he only has three wire, if I read this correctly.

His sub panel would just be able to handle "line to Line" loads...240 only, no 120
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #34  
really, in all the many smaller 60-80 gal units iv hooked up over the years, ive never seen one with thermals.

its nice to know that there are some out there. I was looking at a nice screw compressor for my shop replacement (in future) and that had an actual motor starter system. but too expensive at this time.

I have seen quite a few of these small copressors that have a thermal element integral to the motor. One point we are all missing is that since both of the items that the OP are refering to are packaged, listed equipment, is that the branch circuit capacity and overcurrent device selection needs to be based on the manufacturers requirements.
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #35  
really, in all the many smaller 60-80 gal units iv hooked up over the years, ive never seen one with thermals. than again, there all cheap units like my lowes compressor. Its a cheap single stage unit. I should have opted to wait till i could afford a nice US made 2 stage unit.

its nice to know that there are some out there. I was looking at a nice screw compressor for my shop replacement (in future) and that had an actual motor starter system. but too expensive at this time.

Built to Ontario electrical code spec
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #37  
Home Depot has an inexpensive surface mount GE breaker sub-panel. It comes with several single pole breakers. Some can be 'tied' together with little post kits (pins that mount between the lever/handle on the breakers). Or just buy the ones you need outright. I would look at the brand (and the model of breaker) you already have. One less thing to be different. Though if the existing breaker brand you have is $$$, I'd go with the cheaper brand (stay with well known national brands -- easier to add/change later).

For insurance purposes, use the same brand breaker the panel is.

If you have aluminum, you will need a small tube of 'alox' to apply at the terminals. This keeps the aluminum from oxidizing. One tube will last a life time. I think Home Depot carries it too.

Don't worry about the correction factor -- that's handled by the power company. 'Power Factor' is something industrial/commercial users worry about (or the power company charges them extra to fix it). They already expect a certain amount of it for residential customers (it's just not a big issue for the consumer).

A lot of compressor motors have a large capacitor mounted on them to help with start up power (actually, current) requirements (part of the discussion on start up spikes, etc). If the motor has a large (about the size of 2 D batteries) hump on it, then you have a start capacitor. Compressor motors have to start against a significant load (especially the cheaper home or low end commercial units -- just not sophisticated systems).

I have a similar set up. And I eventually did what you are doing: swapped devices on 'the' outlet, then added an outlet, then finally added a second circuit just for the compressor. Left the extra outlet though -- as someone else posted, it's a great place to plug the plasma cutter into! I do the same thing as the wood shops -- I only run a big current draw on one machine at a time. Since I am a one man shop, that's not a big deal. Now, if I ever build that little garden shed outside and put the noisy $%^&%!! compressor in it -- that would be a good thing.
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #38  
For the electricians here: Wouldn't having a 50A sub-panel require a four-conductor feed, that is two hot wires, a neutral, and an equipment(case) ground? OP states he only has three wire, if I read this correctly.

Simple enough to set a ground pole outside the shop and tie it in.

Chris
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #39  
Simple enough to set a ground pole outside the shop and tie it in.

Chris

That makes sense to me, but I seem to recall numerous discussions about this not being acceptable in the NEC. Also in many discussions about proper grounding of generators. Can anyone elaborate?
 
   / Adding compressor to 220v in my garage #40  
Most compressor motors have 1or2 electrolyte start capacitors to increase the start winding's phase shift. And one large oil filled run cap to improve power factor.
 

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