Sticker shock at the service counter
- Thread starter keegs
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oosik
Epic Contributor
I do my own service on my M6040. Just read and follow your owners manual. My 50 hr service was changing all oils and filters on the tractor. The only part, for me, that was a little confusing - had to talk to dealership service mgr - was draining & refilling the front axle and outer axle housing. The remainder - air filters, oil filters, hydraulic filters, oil draining and refill was straight forward. I don't know about your unit but mine takes 15 gal + for the hydraulic change. Try finding a single container that will hold 15+gal in a single shot. Try moving a large container full of hot oil to get a new empty container in place without spilling the hot oil. I was very lucky I had a large plastic storage container that just held the entire amount. My oils & filters cost $525. The local dealer wanted $300 to do the service and $500 round trip for the tractor - I live 30 mi from the dealer. My annual service - engine oil & filter and air filters - cost $100.
It took me 2 1/2 to 3 hours to do the 50 service. I took my time, had all the required tools, containers etc in place and had a firm understanding of what I was about to do.
Things I learned - its good to have a thick pair of rubber gloves to wear when removing all the drain plugs - the oil IS hot. If you drop the drain plug into the oil pan do not panic. Its not going anywhere and you can figure out how to fish it out after all the hot oil drains. Have fun.
It took me 2 1/2 to 3 hours to do the 50 service. I took my time, had all the required tools, containers etc in place and had a firm understanding of what I was about to do.
Things I learned - its good to have a thick pair of rubber gloves to wear when removing all the drain plugs - the oil IS hot. If you drop the drain plug into the oil pan do not panic. Its not going anywhere and you can figure out how to fish it out after all the hot oil drains. Have fun.
xring100
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1,532
- Location
- Livingston County, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota M8540, ZD1211 60"
Yeah it would be nice if they warned you ahead of time that your first oil change was going to cost you an additional months payment. The real shocker is pulling the Trans drain plug and watching the first 5 gallons drain out in about 25 seconds, not a good thing when your draining it into 5 gallon pails. I would guess it took under 2 minutes to drain 10 gallons. next time i will line up 3 pails in a row and funnel it in with piece of gutter. I would say the best part of changing the oil on the larger utilities is that you have about 2 feet of ground clearance to work under the tractor.
Does anyone have - or considered installing - Fumoto valves? I have them on a couple of my vehicles and they make an oil change a nice, clean procedure. I have no idea if they make them the right size, tho.**edit: Appears they have them for at least some tractors. Allis Chalmers, John Deere, Kubota, and a couple others are listed on the Fumoto website.** Are the tractor drain plugs about the same size as automobile (cars & pickups) drain plugs?
Charlie
Charlie
Last edited:
xring100
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1,532
- Location
- Livingston County, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota M8540, ZD1211 60"
Yes i bought one for mine sitting in the barn i plan on installing it on the side drain of my transmission next time i pull the filters at 300 hours only 20 more to go. I did not buy the one with a nipple i was afraid i would catch it on something.
I believe the one i ordered is the F-105 20mm-1.5
Thanks Gents....I guess from reading the posts of some of you w/larger machines who also got a price on the 50 hr service, I'm not doing too bad. ....gee was it really that easy for Kubota to convince me that their service costs weren't that bad?? :laughing: Thanks for the heads up on draining the trans...I think mine holds 6 gallons ... I have a plastic trough for mixing concrete that I could slip under the five gallon can before I get started. I don't have the manuals with me but I'll have a look over it before to get an idea whether I can/should go the DIY route. I do brakes, oil changes, tune ups etc... on the vehicles..I know my limits though and so far anyway haven't gotten into trouble.
JJZ 109
Veteran Member
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- Feb 7, 2009
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- 2,175
- Location
- Lake Ontario/St. Lawrence River
- Tractor
- Kubota BX2380/LA344 loader/60" MMM, Bobcat S185 skid steer, JD X394 4 wheel steer mower
Good idea. When I saw these I bought one for my Ford 7.3 diesel.
daugen
Epic Contributor
FUMOTO ENGINEERING
had to look these up, nice looking valve.
any concern for something getting wrapped around the lever?
a vine getting underneath could conceivably pull it up and sideways....??
they say "locks in" and I'm sure it works though.
Just wonder if a round ball valve style would be safer.
had to look these up, nice looking valve.
any concern for something getting wrapped around the lever?
a vine getting underneath could conceivably pull it up and sideways....??
they say "locks in" and I'm sure it works though.
Just wonder if a round ball valve style would be safer.
JOHNTHOMAS
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2008
- Messages
- 7,717
- Location
- Somerset, Ky
- Tractor
- F2690 4WD RTV X1140 MX5400 HST ZD1211
Mine has never been hot. I drive the tractor to my garage, 50', turn it off and then come back in about a half hour and do the draining of slightly warm or cool fluids.