Sticker shock at the service counter

   / Sticker shock at the service counter #21  
As mentioned it is not all that big of deal to do the service on the M Series, my son did ours on the M8540, dealer was only going to charge $100 to send a guy to do it on site, but still didn't want to pay that. Transmission fluid does come out faster than anticipated, so he spilled a bit but will be better prepared the next time. Just read and follow the manual.
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #22  
It's really nothing technical to do the normal service. Bottom line is how much is your time, bending and insecurity worth to you.
I doubt any dealership has their top mechanic doing the normal, routine fluid and filter changes. Maybe the top or in between mechanic MAY remove the drain plugs and some time during the day remember to come close/re install them and then start pouring fluids in the machine. They are not going to go over the machine to insure everything is perfect no m ore than the service people at vehicle dealerships.
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #23  
I do my own service. Draining is easier with a couple of 5 gal buckets to catch the oil. My problem came when I went to refill the hydraulic and front axle. Using a funnel and holding a 5 gal bucket of new oil is not my idea of a good time. I think for the next I will get either a hand pump or electric drill pump to make it go faster. -I said that the last time too!
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #24  
I do my own service. Draining is easier with a couple of 5 gal buckets to catch the oil. My problem came when I went to refill the hydraulic and front axle. Using a funnel and holding a 5 gal bucket of new oil is not my idea of a good time. I think for the next I will get either a hand pump or electric drill pump to make it go faster. -I said that the last time too!

northern tool has some good options for hand pumps working off 5 gal buckets. world of difference when doing this service. i just get cheap plastic tubs (storage, etc) @ walmart for drainage (60 qts for hyd oil in my case)
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #25  
Yep the plastic storage tubs.. You don't need the lid:) I had the one I needed already, it easily held all the fluid from my Kioti. Now shoving it around to pull it out from under the tractor on gravel was fun! That much fluid weighs quite a bit. But all in all. doing it yourself is no big deal.. If I can do it you can do it.
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #26  
I have done all service and repairs to my Kubota L3800. Now have about 240 hrs. Much happier knowing what was done and that all caps are re-installled without cross threading. For my BX2200 I had to spend nearly 2 hours walking a 4 acre area to find the Hydraulic cap after dealer repairs. fortunately I found it, it is red. And I had to walk that acreage thinking, was the cap on the dealers work bench or on the side of the road between his place and mine. Check out the metal fillings on the magnetic ring of the Hydraulic filter. Doing it yourself lets you learn l lot about your tractor. Also I use Napa filters for oil but need Kubota for the hydraulic filter.
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #27  
FUMOTO ENGINEERING

had to look these up, nice looking valve.
any concern for something getting wrapped around the lever?
a vine getting underneath could conceivably pull it up and sideways....??
they say "locks in" and I'm sure it works though.
Just wonder if a round ball valve style would be safer.

The lever is spring loaded it must be lifted up before you actually rotate it open. For added safety on agricultural use Fumoto recommends, You put a spring loaded hose clamp in the grove around the valve. This locks the lever in the down position and the clamp must then be removed before the valve can be opened. a ball valve has nothing to prevent rotation. You could always take the handle off a ball valve, but you would need an adapter for your threads making the whole assembly very long. I would worry about having a ball valve hanging out 2 inches and ripping the whole valve off. The fumoto valve does not protrude much father than the drain plug. Again i would not recommend the N models with a nipple to attach a hose.
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #28  
Thanks Gents....I guess from reading the posts of some of you w/larger machines who also got a price on the 50 hr service, I'm not doing too bad. ....gee was it really that easy for Kubota to convince me that their service costs weren't that bad?? :laughing: Thanks for the heads up on draining the trans...I think mine holds 6 gallons ... I have a plastic trough for mixing concrete that I could slip under the five gallon can before I get started. I don't have the manuals with me but I'll have a look over it before to get an idea whether I can/should go the DIY route. I do brakes, oil changes, tune ups etc... on the vehicles..I know my limits though and so far anyway haven't gotten into trouble.

Every thing you need to do should be explained in the owners manual do not need a shop manual for the major stuff. Which means they assume the average owner should be able to handle this task.

On another note i would not worry to much if the magnets on the Trans filters have a fair amount of metal shavings on them. I'm not sure if Kubota processes "parts wash before assembly" the hydrostatic Trans differently than the gear Trans on their bigger tractors
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #29  
you just had to mention 1st service on a tractor lolol.i did my 1st service at 125hrs because of the cost.the hydro oil motor oil an all the filters cost me $400.an thats not counting $150 for the air filters later.then i gave a buddy $150 todo the service.an now im dreading the 1st service on the 7040.
 
   / Sticker shock at the service counter #30  
Why does the trans fluid need changed after only 50 hours? I can't even think of any good reason to change the gear oil in the front end???
 

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