Massey 65 field find -- going to try and get her running and working

[PorkChopsMmm]

So I have been trying to convince a coworker to let me take his old Massey 65 tractor with loader that hasn't been started in a year and is covered in vines. He finally relented and I will hopefully get it towed out to my place this week. It is going to need *a lot* of work but I think it would be a good replacement for my 8N. It has a loader, has 35hp (the 8N only has 20), has power steering, is much heavier, and has a live PTO.

Tractor info here:
TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 65 tractor information

The tractor is covered in vines and they had grown through the tires, seat, all around the bucket, etc. It is in pretty rough shape but I think I can get it running again. The worst part is that hydraulic fluid sprayed all over the right side of the tractor (not visible in the pictures) and it will need to be cleaned off somehow.

Immediately in its future I see a new seat, all new oil, hydraulic fluid, filters, etc. Once I can get it running I will then see about painting it to get it back to its former glory. This thing is extremely heavy -- it has wheels weights and the back tires are filled. I will need to be careful driving this in the Spring out on my property -- it may very well sink at some point. My goal is to get it running before winter so it can take over road plowing duties.

Wish me luck!

 

[MIKE R]

Good luck. You got your work cut out. Its only been there a year. Looks more like 10 years.

 

[jkis]

what a great find, and a frontend loader, hope it doesn't take much to get the old girl going
cheers stuart

 

[murphy1244]

Seems to be missing some sheet metal. Good luck and good hunting

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks guys. My friend's wife passed almost a year ago. While she was going through chemo he didn't touch his tractors. Believe it or not there is a Farmall Cub that is equally covered and a large newer 60hp Case that seemed to not get hit so hard with the vines (it is in the background of the first pic). The Case won't start because the ignition key switch is frozen but other than that I think that one will start right up.

All of the sheet metal is in a barn close by (the barn is equally covered in vines) and I think the majority of the screws/bolts are there, but some are badly damaged by rust. I figured I will get the tractor running and then address the sheetmetal, which I believe is also dented and rusted a bit.

My friend tried to start it the other day but wouldn't turn over. It is the Continental Gas engine so I figured I would put in some Marvel oil in each hole, manually turn the engine, and then put in some new spark plugs. This is all after I changed the engine oil and replace the oil and air filter. The battery is new last year so hopefully charging that up will be all that is needed battery wise. Not sure if these are all this way, since Tractordata says different, but this is set up for 12V and looks like it has been for a long time. My friend has owned it for 25 years and kept it outside most of that time. I believe it is from 1965.

First things first is getting this thing to my house 30 miles away. A flatbed trailer tow will cost $178 but the local heavy equipment rental will let their large trailer go for $50 for half a day. We will try to go the trailer route but until we get the large Case started I don't see a way for us to get it on the trailer.

The seat pan is there but the back looks rusted. Should I just buy a combo seat pan/seat pads off of eBay?

My goal is to get this in good running shape for winter as I live back on a 1/2 mile dirt road I need to maintain. I want to "refurbish" her with some paint if time allows. This won't be a full restoration or anything, just enough to get her running and looking better. My friend has owned this tractor for 25 years and I want to do it justice.

I also cut all of the vines away to see what I am working with. All in all it doesn't look too bad with all of the brush removed. Hopefully I can get her running and then work on replacing parts as time and money allows.

 

[The kid]

When you get it running, don't engage the lift or PTO till you check the condition of the fluid. No need in making a poor condition worse. Field tractors that have poor shifter boots are notorious for leaking water into the transmission. Right now the water and fluid may not be mixed but as soon as you engage the pump it put the bad fluid throughout it's hydro system. Nice find and good luck with it. -kid

 

[DS43812]

My friend tried to start it the other day but wouldn't turn over. It is the Continental Gas engine so I figured I would put in some Marvel oil in each hole, manually turn the engine, and then put in some new spark plugs.

Nice find. In the event that the engine cylinders are seized, a 50/50 mixture of ATF fluid and diesel fuel allowed to soak for a few days can work wonders.

When you get it running, don't engage the lift or PTO till you check the condition of the fluid. No need in making a poor condition worse. Field tractors that have poor shifter boots are notorious for leaking water into the transmission. Right now the water and fluid may not be mixed but as soon as you engage the pump it put the bad fluid throughout it's hydro system.

Incorrect. The hydraulic fluid is circulated throughout the system the second the engine is started because the pump is directly connected to the engine and cannot be disengaged. The PTO is powered by the engine via the hydraulic pump when in the engine speed position or the differential when in the ground speed position. The correct procedure is to completely drain ALL fluids and replace them BEFORE starting the engine, in addition to addressing any issues which could allow water infiltration.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks for the info, guys. My plan is to drain all of the hydraulic fluid too and replace... I am familiar to this because of having the same issue on my 8N.

My friend just wants to fire it up and try to get it on the trailer... Thinks I am going overkill with all of this. I just want to get it home and then I can really dig in.

I take lots of pictures of things so I will be sure to document this.

 

[DS43812]

Thanks for the info, guys. My plan is to drain all of the hydraulic fluid too and replace... I am familiar to this because of having the same issue on my 8N.

After draining the old hydraulic fluid and before adding new fluid, you might consider flushing out the system by adding 3-5 gallons of diesel fuel with several quarts of ATF fluid mixed in for lubrication then driving it around briefly before draining it and adding fresh hydraulic fluid. Oh and previously I said that diesel and ATF is good for freeing stuck pistons, but I forgot to mention that adding Acetone makes the mixture even more effective. If adding Acetone in addition to diesel and ATF fluid the mixture ratio is roughly 1/3 of each.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks, good advice. A few other things you should know about me -- I don't have much to spend on this project and I have a new baby on the way in a month and a half. So once I get this thing to my house I will be kicking into high gear to get it running.

I have a few quick questions..
- Do you all recommend a certain sparkplug for the Continental Gas engine?

- Any tips for draining such a large amount of fluids? I bought a 5 gallon drain pain and that thing filled to the brim when I drained my 8N trans -- made it hard to move around.

- There is old hardened hydraulic fluid all over the control valves and the right side of the tractor. Is there any type of chemical you think would remove it better than another?

- Any recommendations fro the best service manual? I did some searching and it looks like a few versions are available. Jensales, I&T manuals, etc.

 

[murphy1244]

Get factory manuals they still have them.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Yeah, the factory operators manual is only 36 pages long. There is an I&T manual that is 408 pages long but it doesn't get the best reviews, e.g. really weak on the carb section. Maybe the answer is to get both?

Operators Manual $25.99:
Massey Ferguson MF 65 Tractor Operators Manual | Massey Ferguson Tractor Manuals

I&T Service Manual $25.21:
Massey Ferguson Shop Manual Mf-201 (I & T Shop Service Manuals): Clymer Publications: 9780872883765: Amazon.com: Books

 

[The kid]

My suggestion to get both I&T and the Agco service manual. Best of both worlds. I have found they compliment each other.


The I&T manual is more like 90 to 95 pages if it's like the 135. The AGCO service manual is over 400 pages in length.

 

[Beltman60]

The $178 might be money well spent to get it home and start working on it
good luck

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Beltman -- I agree. Right now I am at the mercy of my friend getting his larger Case tractor up and running and he is in no hurry. I am going to see if I can check with the boss and make this happen on Saturday morning.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

So you guys won't believe this, but with a charged battery and some gas in the tank (the gas was completely empty) she started right up in my friends field. I played with the bucket after she had time to warm up a bit. My buddy kept telling me that she was going to start up and I didn't believe him... well I was wrong! Only took a few cranks -- no starting fluid, messing with the carb, or anything.

So far the good: back tires have newer tubes in them with NaCl, radiator was recored, and she starts right up. Also the sheet metal is all fairly straight save for a dent on the end of the hood. Some new paint and lights should fix that right up.

The bad: I need to clean out the sediment bowl and want to replace all of the fluids -- engine, hydraulics, power steering, loader, etc., replace the spark plugs, and replace all of the filters. Buying all of the oils and filters is going to get a little expensive and take some time. She also needs a new seat.

More pictures...

Check out the dried hydraulic fluid.

Back

She will need a new seat -- probably just the seat pads. I think the frame isn't too far gone.

Sheetmetal -- I think knocking out a dent and some paint would do wonders.

The barn in behind these tractors. This thing is huge.

 

[jonathco]

Nice work Pork, I am not surprised. MF built some fine machines in their day. We can all thank Daniel Massey and Harry Ferguson for that.

 

[Beltman60]

good to see it up and running
now get ur home and flush and fill her and she is good to go

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

I am planning on getting the rental trailer sometime next week to bring her home. Should only cost ~$60 which is a lot easier to live with then $150. Thank you for the encouragement!

 

[Cecil Stults]

I agree on changing the engine oil and filter. but for the gear oil for the tranny and the hydraulic oil it may be better to crawl under the tractor and crack open the drain plugs and let all the water drain out. Drain it till it nothing but oil is coming out. do this before starting the engine /pumps.
Some of the tractors hole many GALLONS of oil. It won't be cheap to replace the fluids.

might even have a second session of draining the water after it sits a day or two from the first draining.
After the water is out make sure there is some oil left in the hydraulics and tranny. sometimes if there is enough
water it will displace all the oil out past the seals.

Then see what shape your engine is in. If you find a serious problem with the engine or something else you would have wasted the $ spend on the new oil.

If all things check out THEN change flush and refill the fluids, filters, hoses, rust spots, carburetor kits, seats, wires, pins, hydraulic parts, springs, lights paint ETC. ETC. A never ending hobby......