Why doesn't my MX6 suck?

[Henri88]

Sorry, you guy's type faster than I do.

 

[econometrics]

Yes, I don't recall the exact difference that the op manual says, but I like to run an inch or so difference. Your pasture doesn't look too bad, so I think you are close, a little drop in the front might get you where you need to be.

The instruction say that you should have the front of the cutter a little lower than the rear.

I guess I need to give this a whirl and see what happens, then!

The only reason I cringe at this idea is that I have a few random rolls in my pasture that I am worried about the blades digging into if I run the cutter offset too much. But an inch or two lower in the front probably ain't gonna hurt. :thumbsup:

 

[arlen4720]

With the size of that pasture, and that nice tractor, I think an MX10 should be on your christmas list. My neighbor has one, and it has a nice cut.
That is a nice looking chunk of pasture.... My cows would enjoy messing it up:laughing:

 

[econometrics]

With the size of that pasture, and that nice tractor. I think an MX10 should be on your christmas list. My neighbor has one, and it has a nice cut.

I have really been thinking about that lately, too. This is only about 50% of the grass I am cutting 3-4x per year right now in these pictures. It takes about two full days on the tractor to get it done with the MX6.

I would really love a pull-type cutter like the MX10. I think dual spindles would be a lot more efficient.

The only downside with the MX10 is that I can't trailer it all as easy to cut some of the pastures I have to drive the set-up to 1-2x per year.

Thus, the MX8 has been a little more on my radar than the MX10.

 

[ddivinia]

You need to tighten up your 3rd link. Take ALL the slack of those braces.

Looks like you moved the tail wheel down some. Which would make it cut higher. I pretty much dont use the tailwheel much. The manual said something about the height should be where the deck skids are off the ground and the wheel is not touching.

I would put the new blades on it.

Tighten up the 3rd link.

Go from there.

D.

 

[econometrics]

You need to tighten up your 3rd link. Take ALL the slack of those braces.

Looks like you moved the tail wheel down some. Which would make it cut higher. I pretty much dont use the tailwheel much. The manual said something about the height should be where the deck skids are off the ground and the wheel is not touching.

So the idea here is for ALL of the weight of the cutter to be on the 3-point? I have been purposefully leaving slack in the top link so the wheel is almost always on the ground thinking it would deliver a more even cut through the ups and downs. But that's not really how I should be operating her?

 

[Tx Jim]

The manual said something about the height should be where the deck skids are off the ground and the wheel is not touching.
Tighten up the 3rd link.D.

To mow with the tail wheel off the ground is a new one for me. If that is true then why does JD sell a semi-integral that has no top link bracket and the tail wheels carry the rear of the cutter?

 

[ddivinia]

I can control the cut height easier with the 3 point than getting out and changing the tailwheel height. Going thur transitions the tailwheel keeps the mower from digging in, etc.

It works for me - I have mowed a whole bunch with my MX6.

D.

 

[Tx Jim]

econometrics
Have you tried mowing in the opposite direction than you previously mowed? The direction you mow verses the direction the blades turn gives the blades an opportunity to lift the mashed down grass.

 

[Dutch445]

it may just be a condition with the height of the material, trying to take it from
2-3' down to 6-8" in 1 pass causes too much material to gather under the mower
preventing a good "suck" of all the grass.
I'd be interested to know if it does the same thing if you were to cut from 12-18 inches
down to 6-8 inches....