wiring diagean 800 series ford 1956 needed

[Mike SWMO]

Tractor used to start fine. the other day it wouldn't start and I noticed a wire was loose. Not sure but think it came from the small terminal block that holds wires from ignition key, relay, battery, light sw, fuel gage. I would like to rewire as several wires are old, cracked and need to be replaced. Tractor is a one wire 12 V conversion. Is that just a terminal block or some kind of electrical component?

 

[Soundguy]

terminal block.

ps.. if you have a fuel gauge.. you have an 801.. not an 800.. BIG difference when you look at the wire diagrams..

 

[Mike SWMO]

Soundguy. Thanks. Yes, it does have a fuel gage. I was saying an 800 series tractor as that is what I had seen on the metal plate on the front of the tractor. I didn't know if it was an 801, 802, 860 or whatever. Not up on the different types of tractors. I will try to read the serial numbers a little later and do some more learning. I have to be away for a few days and will post later in the week. I was able to get it rewired to some degree. It starts, runs and I can get it off the trailer. This is what I needed for today. I was able to clean the terminal block and reuse it even though it was so dirty and rusty I didn't have much hope for it. I also replaced the light switch, a pull on push off switch. Like I said the wiring is in such bad shape I just want to replace all the wires. I notice there are different colors and some with tracers on them, such as black with white tracer and I would like to replace with original color code wire if possible.
Do you have a link of where I can find wiring diagrams. Perhaps I need to post the serial number and then maybe you can help me find the correct wiring diagram.

Again Thanks

 

[Dollar Bill]

HTH

 

[Mike SWMO]

Dollar Bill Thanks. I believe that is exactly what mine looked like except it had a ceramic doohickey just before the coil.

 

[Dollar Bill]

The ceramic doohickey is a ballast resistor. It allows full voltage to the coil when you first crank it up and as it heats up, it will reduce current flow to prevent overheating the coil - As you'll note in the wiring diagram, it calls out a "No External Resistor Required". Whomever did the 6V-12V conversion, probably left the original coil intact and added the dropping resistor. I recommend you replace it with a true 12 volt, "No External Resistor Required" coil and delete the ballast resistor. The NAPA part number you're looking for is IC14SB.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto that on the coil / resistor. much better setup.

to the OP. sn, model id, is on the trans bellhousing flat aft of the starter. 801 tin should not have an 800 id badge on it unless the user just mix n matched parts.

 

[Mike SWMO]

Dollar and Soundguy

I am on the other side of the state (SW MO) right now and not near the tractor. I will look into it more when I get back to SE MO. I yo-yo back and forth across the state.

Thank you both very much.

 

[Cbrown9064]

...was saying an 800 series tractor as that is what I had seen on the metal plate on the front of the tractor. I didn't know if it was an 801, 802, 860 or whatever...

Interesting, as my 861 also has a "800" badge on the nose. Mine is a '58. Weird two people have 01s with 800 badges.

 

[Soundguy]

i also question that he thinks it is a 56.. as that is a 00

i'd look at that bellhousing again...

as for the tinwork and the round badge.. that's mix n match for sure easy to do...

 

[1st fws]

56 800 ford won't start.New coil,battery,alternator but no fire to plugs.It sat up a couple of month.Was starting fine when i parked it last

 

[Soundguy]

You probably should have started your very own thread, but here goes.

Ps, welcome to tbn.

Now.. You mention alternator, new coil.

I'll guess 12v.

You dont mention coil type, but ill guess true 12v as well since you don't mention a ballast resistor.

Key on, points open, should be reading 12v at coo primary.

If yes, then check points gap. .025

Make sure they open and close when cranking.

You can put a test lamp inline to coil and crank over and lamp should blink.
If yes, then check for spark at the plugs, if spark at plugs, the troubleshoot fuel. Start fluid makes trouble shooting fuel easy. If it will start and run on start fluid, but dies as soon as you quit spraying, you have a due issue.

Now, if lamp did not blink:

No lamp, check to make sure points can close and are clean, no oxide from setting up for months.

Lamp always on, make sure points are opening. If opening and you still have a solid lamp cranking, remove pigtail from condensor. If lamp goes out, condensir is shorted. Its rare, nut happens. Usual short is where the small primary wire enters the distributor from the coil, the insulator can disintegrate and short the wire to distributor case. another common fault I the copper strip from inside the distributor insulator to the points , the copper van touch the housing and short , or break and be open. Open means no lamp, short means solo lamp.

Post back with details and observations of those tests.

Hopefully it os just dirty points.

Ps if no power to coil in first test, ignition switch may be bad. Jump around it for test. Is, from, battery hot to coil.

Lastly, if you have electronic ignition, disregard this and call the ei maker for tech supt.

 

[1st fws]

Thank you sound guy.Will do these tests and get back to you with results.Record rainfall the past few months.There a lot of things around here that are rusty and corroded that were never before.Took all the wiring connections off and shined them up.Probably climate related because it ran fine when last used in nov.

 

[Soundguy]

if so, check the points first before getting into all that. might just need to shine them up with an ignition hone or white or brown paper.

avoid sand paper if you can.. if you can't, after ultra ultra fine paper, then clean points with white or brown paper to clean the grit particles off.

Sanding and filing points reduces their life by removing the hard coating on them.