What metal drill bit for putting a Piranha on?

[RoyJackson]

Roy the .9 hash mark on the carriage is not visible. It will be almost another 1/10 of and inch of jaw opening before it will be visible. The carriage is slightly past the .8 hash mark. The numbers are to the left of the hash mark they represent. You need to get out your own calipers and have a look at them. When fully closed the carriage will be at the 0 hash mark, and the owner should adjust the dial to read 0 also. Which he has not done. We can only estimate the dimension as show at around .805 as this caliper is out of adjustment as evidenced by the hash marks on the carriage and the dial are not in agreement. I too wish the owner of this caliper would show us this caliper fully closed.

James K0UA

You (and others) are assuming the first hashmark is the "zero"...based upon my experience, I'm assuming the first hashmark is for .100.
Well, reckon we do need the OP to post a picture of that caliper closed.

As I wrote previously, we expect the OP to be able to use his own calipers...

 

[murphy1244]

Wonder if he drilled them holes yet?:zzz:

 

[RoyJackson]

Wonder if he drilled them holes yet?:zzz:

Yeah...me too...

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

You (and others) are assuming the first hashmark is the "zero"...based upon my experience, I'm assuming the first hashmark is for .100.
Well, reckon we do need the OP to post a picture of that caliper closed..

No need. A picture with them closed will only prove if it is zeroed or not (which it doesnt appear to be). You only have to look at the picture to figure out what the lines indicate.

The line to the RIGHT of the 0 mark is aligned with the fixed jaw- indicating 0. The line to the RIGHT of the 1 mark indicates 0.100". The line to the RIGHT of the 2 mark indicates 0.200".... So on and so on. The mark to the RIGHT of the 8 mark indicates 0.800", which is right about where the carriage is. So, if the dial is assumed correct, then it is reading 0.795". If the dial is out of zero, and the hashes are taken on their own, then it is about 0.805" - nowhere near the 0.895" you claimed it was reading.

You are wrong. You will realize you're wrong. And you will feel like an idiot for talking down to the guys who disagreed with you because you felt like you were the one "professional" on the board.

I don't normally get worked up over something this trivial, but I absolutely despise the Princess-Perfect attitude. At my level, in my industry, there are way more experts than "also-ran"s, and plenty of dudes who know more than me and/or stuff that I don't know. I've learned to be really careful about the way I present "facts", cause my colleagues will not hesitate to call you out.

I had a guy interview for an instructor position once and open with the line "yeah, so I know more about guns than most people". Poor guy didn't realize his interview was over before it even really started.

 

[murphy1244]

On my pair if I can see the number 8 on the body it is 8???. You do not go back one #.

 

[k0ua]

OK... here is my properly zeroed caliper set to various dimensions

Here is properly zero'ed

Here is .095

Here is .105

Here is .895

And here is 1 inch even

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

I guess the last thing to be seen is how the Princess handles being PROVEN wrong. By a bunch of non-QC professionals, at that.


Oh...and how the OP's bucket project comes out. That too.

 

[RoyJackson]

On my pair if I can see the number 8 on the body it is 8???. You do not go back one #.

I did request (via a PM) the OP to post a picture of his calipers closed...then we'll have the answer.

 

[murphy1244]

I did request (via a PM) the OP to post a picture of his calipers closed...then we'll have the answer.

Mine are Mit's

 

[RoyJackson]

Mine are Mit's

I can't tell what his are...the brand name is frequently on the dial face, but all I can read is "Shockproof".

 

[newbury]

Wonder if he drilled them holes yet?:zzz:

Nope just got the bits yesterday.

You guys are hilarious. It seemed pretty obvious to me that I made a typo on the 0.8 and my primary question was what bit was best to use.

What metal drill bit

But the thread had taken on a life of it's own with caliper arguments, so I let it go.

Harry had initially suggested a titanium coated step-drill.

I wasn't asking about pilot holes, my caliper, or buying a mag-drill.

Since Harry indicated I could use a 1/2" it took me a while to get even a 1/2" cobalt without going mailorder.

And then the thread digresses into taking the bucket off and taking it to a machinist. I don't know about the rest of you but to me that bucket is heavy (350lbs plus).

I'm almost surprised no one suggested burning a hole with a billion dollar DOD high energy laser.

So I made a typo on the caliper reading and I did not zero it.
And I haven't been back to the tractor to even attempt to drill a hole.

But at least the thread didn't descend into politics.

Now if there was only a button so an OP could close a thread.

 

[RoyJackson]

Now if there was only a button so an OP could close a thread.

You can PM a mod to close the thread...or let it die on it's own

So, you measurement was .895 or .795?

 

[tomfifield]

I guess the last thing to be seen is how the Princess handles being PROVEN wrong. By a bunch of non-QC professionals, at that.


Oh...and how the OP's bucket project comes out. That too.

He still is not going to admit it. Roy if you really did work with calipers you would have had the right answer before you dug your self a hole, they are all the same. I will give you this, maybe you did not look close at the calipers and just went with what you thought you saw. Just admit you'r wrong and move on. I have to say it was all the experts that did not know what they were looking at that made me feel I needed to educate some people, before they made a mistake working on some thing. My posts were not made in malice, but for the hope that it may help some one. Please do not feel that I was trying to put you guys down, if you read what I do for work you will see that I had better know what I am talking about. Like Gunmokey said; I listen to people that know more than me, even some that I think know less, and I hold off on being any sort of smug, as I hate to eat crow. If I am not sure on something I let people know that, it is better not to know something than to think you know something and be wrong. Besides, I feel it is not who is right, but what is right, that counts.

Out of all of this the best advice was for the first poster to go to a machine shop, but that would take a triller and truck to get it to there, and as you said "take the bucket off" that would be no way. You could rent a mag drill. My cobalt bits cut much better than any of my other bits.

 

[newbury]

You can PM a mod to close the thread...or let it die on it's own

So, you measurement was .895 or .795?

About a squig less than 0.8.

 

[RoyJackson]

About a squig less than 0.8.

OK...good luck drilling that hole! Or holes!

 

[RoyJackson]

He still is not going to admit it.

Nope...I just ignore posts that take it to a personal level.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

I guess the last thing to be seen is how the Princess handles being PROVEN wrong. By a bunch of non-QC professionals, at that.

He still is not going to admit it.

Nope...I just ignore posts that take it to a personal level.

Got it. Then those of us who disagreed with you should have just ignored this comment. In which case this discussion never happened and there is nothing to see here.

Well, not much use going back and forth on this...if you use calipers professionally, I think you'll change your mind. If you don't use them, well, as I wrote, not much use going back and forth...

But, now that even the OP has confirmed that you were wrong...

About a squig less than 0.8.

removing any possible question that you were wrong, I'm just hoping that your boss never decides to get a tractor. It would really suck if he started reading the boards and discovered that his "quality control" guy had no idea how to read a dial caliper AND was incapable of admitting he is wrong. That is one heck of a bad combination to have in a QC guy.

"That's not MY number on that approval sticker on that out-of-spec part."
"Oh, wait, yes it is, but see it says 'Passed'. That means I passed on it because it was bad."

 

[Coyote machine]

A long long time ago, in a far away reality I suggested using a machine shop to do the drilling. Since then I've had another idea: why not get a billion dollar DOD high energy laser to do the job? Since Roy is working in QC he might have a connection to someone who has one?!:confused2::laughing:

Wow, talk about beating a thread to DEATH!? This may take the cake. Some may even have to eat some 'humble pie'. And we wonder why America has so much trouble making anything - if reading a scale is so difficult, and realizing a dial is not properly zeroed; well then it seems we're clearly doomed to turn out mediocre work results. And China may produce a lot of crap, BUT we KEEP buying it!:confused3:

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

...Some may even have to eat some 'humble pie'. And we wonder why America has so much trouble making anything - if reading a scale is so difficult, and realizing a dial is not properly zeroed; well then it seems we're clearly doomed to turn out mediocre work results. And China may produce a lot of crap, BUT we KEEP buying it!:confused3:

I'd still like to know what company Roy works for, so I can buy the Chinese version of their product instead.

 

[jenkinsph]

Last year when building a new landplane I posted a picture of what I used to drill the mounting holes. While I have a large drill press and lots of other various tools I know that most of the guys don't have as much to work with. I used a very limited set of tools to build this implement, torch, stick welder. grinder, chalk, clamps and saw horses. I drilled the holes for the 5/8" plow bolts with a holesaw Lenox or Milwaukee I suspect and cordless drill. Worked pretty well with no problems maybe three minutes per hole. Clamp the new blade over the bucket and use the holes in the blade as a guide for good line up. I can usually remove the pilot bit if the blade is a close enough fit and have less material to remove.

While I would not use this method for machining intricate parts to tight tolerances it works well enough for mounting a new blade on your bucket. If that didn''t work I would have torched the holes and been good to go.