No, you can get both from the twine box side of the knotter. You'll need a 3/4" wrench. Make sure you take note of your shims and the location when you remove them. Also make sure you follow the shimming procedure in the operators manual. NH knives are strait knives and are easy to sharpen. To barry you are out of time in one place or another. Check the knotter drive chain for kinks and tightness. If it is too loose it will cause erratic shear bolt breakage. If the pludger stop is engagng the crank arm then it is doing its job to save your needles and cradle.
Baler flywheel shear bolts
- Thread starter barrybro
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barrybro
Bronze Member
Wow - Great information, I defenitley need to sharpen my knives and also go through all of these other items just to be sure.
Thanks!
Barry
Thanks!
Barry
I sharpened the knives on my hesston baler a couple months ago. What a world of difference it made!
The bales are cleaner looking, I can defintly feel the difference in how bad it rocks me back adn forth too. Power requirements have gone down considerably too. If you have never sharpened yours then it is a really good idea to do so now.
It does sound like your timing is out though. Or that is at least part of the problem. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual if you don't already have it. It's got great illustrations and descriptions of exactly how to do it.
The bales are cleaner looking, I can defintly feel the difference in how bad it rocks me back adn forth too. Power requirements have gone down considerably too. If you have never sharpened yours then it is a really good idea to do so now.
It does sound like your timing is out though. Or that is at least part of the problem. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual if you don't already have it. It's got great illustrations and descriptions of exactly how to do it.
I got the knives out, sharpened and installed.
Took a few hours for the whole job. How often is this necessary? Not the easiest of jobs, kind of a pain actually. All the shims fell out when I pulled the bolts out so after a lot of farting around I got it back together. On the bottom where the knives first meet I have a good thumb nail of clearance which gets a little tighter as the knifes move past each other, ending with a snug thumb nail on top. By my measurements it should be a little over 1/32" at bottom and just under 1/32" at the top. Manual states 1/32 max. Seemed to work fine rebaling a few bales at idle. No loud scary noises
Cut a few acres tonight so I will get to try it out in a few days.
Thanks for the help guys.
Took a few hours for the whole job. How often is this necessary? Not the easiest of jobs, kind of a pain actually. All the shims fell out when I pulled the bolts out so after a lot of farting around I got it back together. On the bottom where the knives first meet I have a good thumb nail of clearance which gets a little tighter as the knifes move past each other, ending with a snug thumb nail on top. By my measurements it should be a little over 1/32" at bottom and just under 1/32" at the top. Manual states 1/32 max. Seemed to work fine rebaling a few bales at idle. No loud scary noisesCut a few acres tonight so I will get to try it out in a few days.
Thanks for the help guys.
I have a 269 hayliner that I replaced. the clutch on the flywheel last cutting when it broke. Now when I start the pto it runs fine until I engage the knotters. then instantly shears pin. Looking at the needles they are not fully resetting and when I reset them manually it's fine again until the knotters are tripped. So I removed all hay and turned it over by hand and everything works fine. did this several times with no problems until I engage the PTO on the tractor and then the needles don't fully retract back and boom sheared pin. What is this and how to fix. Please. it did always shear a few pins before but not because of the needles not locking out. Help.
SPYDERLK
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The baler is protecting the needles. It should.drive the needles full cycle during the tie cycle and "park" them out of the way. There should be an adjustable friction clutch to stop their movement as soon as drive stops. ... Are you sure its not driving them far enuf - or is it letting them go/coast too far - /partly into next cycle?
larry
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It looked as if they were not fully resetting but I took a chance and gave a couple of turns of tension to the clutch pads. after that I tried hand turning the knot cycle and it seemed to be the same as before it completed the cycle. So I then tried it under pto speed and it is now completing the cycle. Thanks. it was still shearing pins but not due the safety arm hitting the bale arm. So I cleaned out the chute again and ran it dry for a couple minutes. Hasn't sheared a pin since about 450 bales. Any Ideas what else might be causing pin shear? Sometimes it seems like it has to warm up??? It'll shear pins in the beginning every 10 bales or so then after about 30 minutes it runs like it should? I don't know I just have to be patient but if I could fix it things would move along faster. Any thoughts.
peeton59
New member
i have a New Holland 326 square baler and today it has broken a lot of bolts the bales are not wet. Im thinking its something else maybe the needles are linked to safety latch needs to be adjusted.? How much can you adjust that latch? till you dont see it sticking out? This baler is at it last leg. I got an old 237 NH and the it had been parked for over 5 years i cleaned it up and rotated it. I hooked it to tractor and the needles went up but didnt go back? Baler kept running but needles stayed up? I thought the shear bolt on flywheel should have broken off ? Does the speed have to be up on tractor for needles to come back down after knotter grabs string?
SPYDERLK
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Im not understanding. This sounds impossible. The needles go thru the bale chamber very quickly while the ram is backstroked. They must flip back down out of the way to allow the ram an unimpeded forward stroke. For preservation of the needles there is a mechanical safety that sticks up into the bale chamber while the needles are up. This stops the ram dead and shears the bolt. The flywheel continues but the baler is NOT running.
You can observe and trace the motions while turning the baler by hand. When you trigger the knot cycle will delay until ram is on its backstroke. The needles come up while the knot ties and rethread the knotter - then recede quickly as the ram comes back toward the chamber. At running speed, if the ram comes back into the chamber before they are clear they are destroyed. Trace all the drives at hand speed and youll find a loose or sticking or broken part. Then everything will be ok.
larry