Light Colored Smoke

[Hinomotoman]

You might have some oil getting by rings until they seat. Keep rpm's low, don't stay at same rpm for more then 15 minutes. Very speed. Keep loads light for as many hours as you can tolerate. Let those rings seat. Don't put it under heavy loads for 50 hrs. HS

Will try that. Thanks

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Late timing can cause white smoke also. This can be either pump timing or cam timing (which is usually tied to pump timing). Not knowing what the previous owner had apart could make this challenging.

 

[Kernopelli]

Just rebuilt my K3F and assembled it with regular 30W. No smoke whatsoever under any engine speed or load. In this same engine I once had to replace the #3 rod and I put new rings in with it at that time just as good measure since I had it apart ( hydrolocked the engine in pond accident and bent the rod). I didn't crosshatch the cylinder wall that time and it took about 5 hrs of running time before the new rings finally seated. It had light white/bluish smoke until they seated......just like it smoked prior to putting the new rod in. I was very concerned that the rod or rings were not right, that I still had a some water/moisture in the engine etc. but in the end I am sure it was just an issue of the rings on #3 seating. Ran great with no smoke for the next 5 years/600 hrs until a rod bearing spun ( very thick oil, partially obstructed pickup screen on a cold morning start up was the culprit there).

I'm curious, did you put a fresh bore or finish/deglaze/ crosshatch the cylinders on this rebuild? If not, my experience is that it will take a good while for those new rings to seat.

 

[houstonscott]

Should have set all the timing on rebuild.

HS

 

[Hinomotoman]

Late timing can cause white smoke also. This can be either pump timing or cam timing (which is usually tied to pump timing). Not knowing what the previous owner had apart could make this challenging.

The previous owner didn't have the engine apart. I took it apart. I put the pump shims back just like they came out. It starts way too easy to be out of time.

 

[Hinomotoman]

Just rebuilt my K3F and assembled it with regular 30W. No smoke whatsoever under any engine speed or load. In this same engine I once had to replace the #3 rod and I put new rings in with it at that time just as good measure since I had it apart ( hydrolocked the engine in pond accident and bent the rod). I didn't crosshatch the cylinder wall that time and it took about 5 hrs of running time before the new rings finally seated. It had light white/bluish smoke until they seated......just like it smoked prior to putting the new rod in. I was very concerned that the rod or rings were not right, that I still had a some water/moisture in the engine etc. but in the end I am sure it was just an issue of the rings on #3 seating. Ran great with no smoke for the next 5 years/600 hrs until a rod bearing spun ( very thick oil, partially obstructed pickup screen on a cold morning start up was the culprit there).

I'm curious, did you put a fresh bore or finish/deglaze/ crosshatch the cylinders on this rebuild? If not, my experience is that it will take a good while for those new rings to seat.

The previous owner ran it without an air filter. I had to have it bored 40 thousanths and replaced pistons. It was crosshatched. I spent $2500 on parts alone not including machining costs with also included rebuilding head. Maybe I need to give it more time but it seems really excessive to me and I would think with 450 lbs. of compression, the rings would be seated.

 

[houstonscott]

Does it use oil? The value guides may leak oil into combustion chamber, unless they were replaced.

HS

 

[Hinomotoman]

Everything internal was replaced. I haven't run it long enough yet to tell about any oil consumption. The oil is still clear. The reason I did a compression check is that I thought because of the smoke, the gaps in the rings might have become aligned. But apparently that's not the case.

Eugene

 

[Kernopelli]

Coolant leaking into combustion chamber and "burning off" or a fuel issue? ( I assume it is fresh fuel and the tractor has a water separator/sediment bowl), injectors not giving good/full spray? Leak down should show if it's a coolant issue. You could pull the injectors individually and visually inspect the spray pattern.....don't know how effective that really is in all scenarios of injector delivery issues though?

After my rebuild, I started the engine on the 18 month old fuel that was in the full tank stored indoors. It initially ran horribly....it didn't smoke but it sputtered, rev'ed slow and was hard starting. I was devastated! I changed the fuel and she ran like a top immediately. I have heard numerous stories about diesel lasting years but in this instance, 18 months made the difference between tractor fuel and brush pile starter.

 

[Hinomotoman]

Today I bled the fuel system again. No air at all. When I loosen the injector tubes it slows down on all 3 cylinders so I know it's firing. I haven't started it since Saturday. It still starts immediately without glow plugs. I moved the throttle the full range several times. No smoke until I load the engine. There is no power loss. I'm stumped.