Diesel: cold weather starting

[Egon]

Too many machines and buildings burned with a jackleg heating system. Too much heat wasted too. Use a proper block heater and battery blanket instead to having to rig some contraption.

Got some examples to show?

Never seen a Jackleg Heating system. Anything like a Herman Nelson?

 

[PhysAssist]

Pure sillyness. There is lube added to winter diesel, kerosene and gasoline. There are some people however that just can't leave well enough alone. And resort to witchcraft, soccery, potions and superstion.

Like adding gasoline or kerosene to fuel made specifically to run in diesels in cold weather?

 

[Egon]

The circulating heaters running off diesel and batteries (like the transport tractors use) may be a good way to go too. Stand alone system) :thumbsup:

 

[PhysAssist]

Hi Jymbee,

As you may be able to tell, we live in the Niagara/Monroe/Orleans County area of NYS.

We have had a 2001 Ford F-350 with the 7.3 diesel since '03, and our 2011 Kubota B2320 from day one, and never use any block or other heaters without having any cold starting problems. We run the recommended 5W-40 full synthetic oil in both, and use street diesel with Optilube like DeereMan and Raw Dodge suggested, allow the glow plugs plenty of time to prewarm and then go low but don't sit at idle to warm them up.

We do leave them running once started, unless they will be sitting at idle for more than 10-15 minutes, (this is true all year round) to avoid unnecessary restarts and still conserve fuel.
I used to use PowerService White in all diesel we purchase year-round, but after reading analysis of the lubricating properies of various diesel additives (which has nothing to do with their antigel/anticlouding ability) we changed to the Optilube, and it has also worked well.

For our multipe gas engines (cars, gennie, smaller mowers, and chainsaw) we use Stabil or a Stabil clone designed to reduce the ethanol induced water absorption and varnish formation from evaporation, with good effect.

For our usual temperature ranges, we have never had any trouble starting (except for some slowing of the process in our little Hondas- Japanese cars are never happy below 20 degrees F in put experience), even when the radios and other LCD displays are very sluggish 2nd to the cold.

Our Kubota has spent all its 2+ years in an unheated temporary garage or pole barn. The first year plus, it was in a Shelter Logic tent garage, then last wintwr, it was in our unsealed, and unheated pole barn withvthe wind blowing at it from under the garage door (it only closes to about within 6" of the gravel floor, pending pouring of a concrete floor-next week!) and still started first time every time.

I did invest in a charging system meter that plugs into the power port/cigarette lighter and last year when it showed that the Ford truck's two BIG batteries weren't holding their charge up to par, we pre-emptively changed them out for Wally World batteries, with a great improvement in cold cranking from the year before.

I check the power/charging systems of all the vehicles with it in late fall, under cold weather conditions (under 32F) and address any deficiencies it reveals preemptively before the real cold hits.

We only started the diesels a couple of times per week in the winter, as the truck is only really used to plow, and the tractor is mostly used for moving firewood, with a little supplemental snow removal as needed, and they still started easily each time.

PM me, if you need any more/other local area info.

What area are you in generally?

Thomas

 

[buickanddeere]

Hi Jymbee,

As you may be able to tell, we live in the Niagara/Monroe/Orleans County area of NYS.

We have had a 2001 Ford F-350 with the 7.3 diesel since '03, and our 2011 Kubota B2320 from day one, and never use any block or other heaters without having any cold starting problems. We run the recommended 5W-40 full synthetic oil in both, and use street diesel with Optilube like DeereMan and Raw Dodge suggested, allow the glow plugs plenty of time to prewarm and then go low but don't sit at idle to warm them up.

We do leave them running once started, unless they will be sitting at idle for more than 10-15 minutes, (this is true all year round) to avoid unnecessary restarts and still conserve fuel.
I used to use PowerService White in all diesel we purchase year-round, but after reading analysis of the lubricating properies of various diesel additives (which has nothing to do with their antigel/anticlouding ability) we changed to the Optilube, and it has also worked well.

For our multipe gas engines (cars, gennie, smaller mowers, and chainsaw) we use Stabil or a Stabil clone designed to reduce the ethanol induced water absorption and varnish formation from evaporation, with good effect.

For our usual temperature ranges, we have never had any trouble starting (except for some slowing of the process in our little Hondas- Japanese cars are never happy below 20 degrees F in put experience), even when the radios and other LCD displays are very sluggish 2nd to the cold.

Our Kubota has spent all its 2+ years in an unheated temporary garage or pole barn. The first year plus, it was in a Shelter Logic tent garage, then last wintwr, it was in our unsealed, and unheated pole barn withvthe wind blowing at it from under the garage door (it only closes to about within 6" of the gravel floor, pending pouring of a concrete floor-next week!) and still started first time every time.

I did invest in a charging system meter that plugs into the power port/cigarette lighter and last year when it showed that the Ford truck's two BIG batteries weren't holding their charge up to par, we pre-emptively changed them out for Wally World batteries, with a great improvement in cold cranking from the year before.

I check the power/charging systems of all the vehicles with it in late fall, under cold weather conditions (under 32F) and address any deficiencies it reveals preemptively before the real cold hits.

We only started the diesels a couple of times per week in the winter, as the truck is only really used to plow, and the tractor is mostly used for moving firewood, with a little supplemental snow removal as needed, and they still started easily each time.

PM me, if you need any more/other local area info.

What area are you in generally?

Thomas

Why are you so proud of not using a block heater? The electrical cost are negligible and the benefits undeniable.

 

[terryknight]

Why are you so proud of not using a block heater? The electrical cost are negligible and the benefits undeniable.

he is just stating what works for him. and whether or not the electrical costs are negligible are based on the size of the heater. the one on my truck is 1200W. the bill goes up considerably if you use it every night

 

[Clint S]

he is just stating what works for him. and whether or not the electrical costs are negligible are based on the size of the heater. the one on my truck is 1200W. the bill goes up considerably if you use it every night

Yes a 1000w heater would cost $1.00 to run for 10 hours (assuming 10 cents a kwh). Does not sound like much, but multiply x 30 and now your talking $30 a month. If used alot it can add up. Not saying it is not worth the money, but it can add up.

During winter (lower than 20 degrees or so) I plug lower radiator hose heater in before I go to bed only if I think I will need it for snow removal in the AM. Other than that 2 to 3 hours before use and salamander blowing on it for about 1/2hour or so too when it is really cold. I live north of Syracuse NY and it can get pretty cold. I do not have glow plugs and have only had a few instances where it was very difficult to start. I will be switching to Rotella T6 to help. I have an 7 foot blower, but prefer the confines of my 95 f150 to plow snow in. Heater works very well and do not have to deal with snow in the face. Only use the tractor in extreme lake effect dumps, but mostly to push back the banks or to more snow after I shovel the roof.

 

[PhysAssist]

Why are you so proud of not using a block heater? The electrical cost are negligible and the benefits undeniable.

Not proud, just stating a fact.

I do know that I am lucky to have the glow plugs and that they seem to work well for me. I don't know where in NYS the OP is located, but if he is a similar clime, he may not need to go to the trouble of finding and adding any supplemental heaters.

Why are you so defensive about having to use one?

I never once commented on cost or efficiency of using them (because I have no personal experience or objective knowledge of them; nor have I attacked or derided anyone else for needing them.

In point of fact, if I was in your situation, I would likely do just as you are doing, and I already primarily use my truck for plowing for the same reasons you use your truck for plowing.

The other reason to use the truck is that we don't yet have any dedicated snow removal toys/implements for the tractor, just the BB and bucket, although we have contemplated converting my Snow Bear plow (which is currently what we use on the truck for snow removal) for use on the FEL, or on a set of frame mounted arms that use the FEL for lifting and controlling the plow's bite, but since we both like a nice warm truck cab better than sitting out on the tractor, we aren't in any hurry to do so.

If the truck died or otherwise got cost prohibitive to keep running, that would be the next redneck engineering project at our place...

What general area in NYS (besides being N of the 'cuse) are you located in? I'm not asking you for any details, any more than I give details, just curious.

Happy and safe tractoring,
Thomas

 

[PhysAssist]

he is just stating what works for him. and whether or not the electrical costs are negligible are based on the size of the heater. the one on my truck is 1200W. the bill goes up considerably if you use it every night

Thanks, you read me correctly, I have no axe to grind, no dog in the race, or whatever aphorism is appropriate, I was just sharing my "upstate New York" winter experiences regarding vehicle use and maintenance, withoit block, oil, radiator hose, or other heaters.

I do have a question about them.

Does anyone use one of the magnetic block heaters that stick onto the oil pan? How do they work? Any down sides?

Thanks,
Thomas

 

[buickanddeere]

Snow belt on the east coast of lake Huron.
I figured given the long list of advantages of 1-4hrs of preheat before starting. Most operators would pre-heat if there was 120V nearby.