Building a Pole Barn: Step 1

[gregfender]

Are you going to finish off the interior walls? Insulate the walls and roof? The advantage of a pole barn is that it's the least expensive way to build a barn. But if you are going to finish off the inside and pour concrete, it makes more sense to build it stick frame. Eddie

I'm going to finish off a part of the lower part and half of the loft. I am going to panel part of it with the weathered boards I salvaged from my Pappy's barn.

Eddie, what's your opinion on concrete thickness? The heaviest thing I have is 3100 lbs of tractor that I will pull in only for servicing, not for storage. Would 4" with rebar and fiber filled concrete work? I'm thinking 3500 psi. Any suggestions?

 

[Hiltz]

My names not Eddie but I'll chime in. 4" should be plenty. Back in my home building days we never poured anything thicker when doing driveways or garages for cars. Always used 2x4's for forms. Your tractor weight is about what a full size car nowadays weighs.

 

[BrinkME]

I'm going to finish off a part of the lower part and half of the loft. I am going to panel part of it with the weathered boards I salvaged from my Pappy's barn.

Eddie, what's your opinion on concrete thickness? The heaviest thing I have is 3100 lbs of tractor that I will pull in only for servicing, not for storage. Would 4" with rebar and fiber filled concrete work? I'm thinking 3500 psi. Any suggestions?

If you don't mind I'd also like to chime in on your question directed toward Eddie.

If you build it just like they say to you'll have a building that will last you many years, but like Eddie said, if you want to finish out the interior and switch to stick built, these plans go out the window.

Pay close attention to the minimum requirements, which you've surpassed with going with 3500psi concrete . . . they call for 3000 minimum. They also call for 6x6 #10 wire mesh. I know I've seen Eddie make the comment several times that mesh/rebar left on the bottom of the form does no good and this is very very true.

The biggest killer (cracks) of slabs is unstable/non-compacted fill. Again, follow the plan and you'll have a well built building.

 

[gregfender]

Speaking of concrete, how should it be layered? I was planning on excavating 8-10", compacting the soil, adding 3-4" of sand, compacting that, then 2-3" of washed gravel, compacting again, then laying a vapor barrier down, setting the rebar or wire mesh on chairs, then pouring 4" of concrete.

Is that the right order, overkill, or the right approach?

 

[Hiltz]

Speaking of concrete, how should it be layered? I was planning on excavating 8-10", compacting the soil, adding 3-4" of sand, compacting that, then 2-3" of washed gravel, compacting again, then laying a vapor barrier down, setting the rebar or wire mesh on chairs, then pouring 4" of concrete.

Is that the right order, overkill, or the right approach?

Im not sure why you would want to excavate undisturbed soil to that depth only to fill it back with 4" of sand. I would skip that step and dig the depth for 4 inches of gravel under the slab. The rest of your steps sounds like a solid plan. Good luck. That's a beautiful building

 

[BrinkME]

On page 10 they call for a minimum of 8" clean (washed) gravel. In the concrete notes (Notes 3) they also call for the slab to be at least 2" thicker at all edges, this includes both sides of expansion joints that run along the centerlines of the posts.

I'm not so sure the sand is necessary, but maybe someone more knowledgeable could chime in. The vapor barrier and chairs are both good calls.

 

[gregfender]

Im not sure why you would want to excavate undisturbed soil to that depth only to fill it back with 4" of sand. I would skip that step and dig the depth for 4 inches of gravel under the slab. The rest of your steps sounds like a solid plan. Good luck. That's a beautiful building

I had never really thought of it like that. I am so used to doing patios and such where the base layer of sand is what keeps the stones level. I sometimes forget that concrete levels itself!

 

[GManBart]

NC is usually pretty warm, but are you going to heat it?

 

[gregfender]

NC is usually pretty warm, but are you going to heat it?

I am going to either put a barrel stove in it or putting a gas wall heater in. Initially, I will probably just go with a kerosene heater to knock the chill off.

 

[hunterridgefarm]

Greg,

That is a nice looking building.:thumbsup:

Keep us updated with photos. Do you have a couple of friends that can help? If not it looks like a good project for a history class:laughing:

I plan on starting mine late winter early spring. I will get a local guy to put in the post and get it under roof then finish it myself. I need to take down about 10 trees before starting. I gave up on Morton way to many $$.

Are you buying your post from Lowes?

David