k0ua
Epic Contributor
I think your filed welds on the nuts are beautiful and give it a special custom look.
Electronic FEL level indicator
- Thread starter WaxMan
- Start date
- Views: 70184
Recoveryhill
Gold Member
Very nice design, execution and expense to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
My LA524 has a level bracket on top of the bucket, well visible from the operator station. I never have an issue with leveling the bucket, observing the bracket and adjusting, by feel. So many tractor skills, well executed, require experience which results in feel for the machine. For instance grading a road with a back blade after having dropped spoil which contains roots and grass tops, dragging the load down the road and feathering the blade so as to leave the dirt behind while collecting the plant material so it can be collected with a level bucket at the end of the run and deposited off the road. The blade becomes an extension of the operator and no LED lights are going to beat the native relationship between the blade position and the operator's mind and hand on the control lever.
I too appreciate the quality of your modification but I chalk it up to your desire to pimp your tractor, which is just fine. I'll stick with the basics and develop my machine handling skills to achieve the desired results.
Respectfully submitted by a Machine Operator
My LA524 has a level bracket on top of the bucket, well visible from the operator station. I never have an issue with leveling the bucket, observing the bracket and adjusting, by feel. So many tractor skills, well executed, require experience which results in feel for the machine. For instance grading a road with a back blade after having dropped spoil which contains roots and grass tops, dragging the load down the road and feathering the blade so as to leave the dirt behind while collecting the plant material so it can be collected with a level bucket at the end of the run and deposited off the road. The blade becomes an extension of the operator and no LED lights are going to beat the native relationship between the blade position and the operator's mind and hand on the control lever.
I too appreciate the quality of your modification but I chalk it up to your desire to pimp your tractor, which is just fine. I'll stick with the basics and develop my machine handling skills to achieve the desired results.
Respectfully submitted by a Machine Operator
OP
WaxMan
Veteran Member
I appreciate the quality of your operating skills.
But that doesn't mean all who use some sort of leveling device different from what you use are less of an operator then yourself. It's not like your Not using a device to level your bucket, you are.
Machine operators that use large loaders 8 hrs per day everyday have an automatic stop at level, the hydraulics cut out at level, and the bucket won't curl anymore it stops. The heck with looking at lights, rods, and bent metal strips on the bucket. It stops automatically for them. There must be a reason for that. The reason is it makes it easier and faster to find level. An auto stop saves time. They are all experienced Machine Operators too.
Contrary to what you may think, Kubota didn't put the bent piece of metal with the sticker that says "level" on your bucket because it's for more advanced operators as you proclaim.
It was done because It was cheaper to do than the level rod indicator they put on all their more expensive tractors.
Every New Kubota from the Grand L 's the TLB's to the M series have the rod type indicators and the Top M series have the self leveling valve. Are you saying these tractors are all for the inexperienced operators?
If you're happy with that type of indicator you have, thats really Great, I'm happy for you. That's all that came with your tractor and you mastered it, Congratulations.
My preference, I like using the level rod and my indicator light over the bent flat stock on the bucket type. I had that on my B3030 I cut it off and installed the rod type. To each their own.
For my next Pimping feat, since, I already have the rod with a level on/off switch on it. Add a solenoid shut off control, add function button on the fel control lever and make a auto stop at level control just like some of the New M series tractors have, with a switch that I can turn it on and off when needed hmm? Thanks for keeping me thinking. I'll keep pimping ,You keep practicing.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Here is my two cents on this subject. Am I an experienced enough operator to find bucket level without any aids? Darn right I am. I can tell by the way the bucket loads, the sound of the motor and the tire slippage. I can cut a pretty level And smooth grade when I really try. I have over 20 years experience doing this. Now do I look at the level indicater? Darn right I do. Why the heck wouldn't I? It just speeds up the process when you approach the pile or you are setting up to peel the top layer. Why wait until you have to feel then adjust when it doesn't cost a thing to glance at the rod as you are traveling?
OP
WaxMan
Veteran Member
I do consider myself a pretty good operator, certainly not as experienced as Recoveryhill and kOua Not enough years, I do have 6 years and over 700 hrs of mostly grading and fel work. It may or may not take me longer than you guys but it's a nice job when I'm done. I also do consider the bucket an extension of myself especially using the backhoe. I understand exactly what both of you are saying. But i'm always leveling my bucket on the go and adjusting as needed. I need the level rod to do that. Whether it's the right or wrong way, thats what I do and I like using it.
Just for the fun of it:
Does anyone know if this will work? For a level stop.
If I put a 12 volt hydraulic flow solenoid between the curl fel connection hose of the tractor and loader, once my "level" rod switch is activated and shuts off the hydraulic flow to the curl function, will the bucket stop and be stiff at level until the solenoid opens again? Just like it is stiff when I release the control lever? Or will there be play back and forth in the pistons?
Something like this valve, they have one with 26 gal per min also.
Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve 16.8 GPM, 4500 PSI, 2-Position, Spring Offset, 12 Volt DC Solenoid, Model# SWHG02B2D1210 | Power Solenoid| Northern Tool + Equipment
Just for the fun of it:
Does anyone know if this will work? For a level stop.
If I put a 12 volt hydraulic flow solenoid between the curl fel connection hose of the tractor and loader, once my "level" rod switch is activated and shuts off the hydraulic flow to the curl function, will the bucket stop and be stiff at level until the solenoid opens again? Just like it is stiff when I release the control lever? Or will there be play back and forth in the pistons?
Something like this valve, they have one with 26 gal per min also.
Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve 16.8 GPM, 4500 PSI, 2-Position, Spring Offset, 12 Volt DC Solenoid, Model# SWHG02B2D1210 | Power Solenoid| Northern Tool + Equipment
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Fallon
Super Member
Would you put the plumbing in series or in parallel to your normal loader valve?
If you put it in series, you would need to manually curl the bucket & your simple on/off valve between the loader valve & cylinder would trip according to the sensor. Then the system would immediately go into relief, pretty much like you limited out the cylinders. Once you heard the relief valve start squealing, that would just be a signal to let off the curl lever. I'm sure you could replace the loader valve with something detented to pop out, but that would be a bit costly & complex (and beyond my knowledge for now).
If you plumbed in an open center electronically actuated valve into the power beyond loop you could probably have both your normal loader valve & your electronic return to level valve feeding the curl cylinders. When both valves are centered, it will block the work ports & not let the cylinder move. If you were to use either valve, it would open 1 work port to pump & the other to tank, just as normal. Essentially you'd end up with a normal loader valve operating as usual & an electronic valve initiated by a button or 2 to electronically return the bucket to level. Plumbing something in parallel like that would be more brainless to use I think, but harder & more expensive to implement.
Just brainstorming ideas based on my limited knowledge of hydraulics.
If you put it in series, you would need to manually curl the bucket & your simple on/off valve between the loader valve & cylinder would trip according to the sensor. Then the system would immediately go into relief, pretty much like you limited out the cylinders. Once you heard the relief valve start squealing, that would just be a signal to let off the curl lever. I'm sure you could replace the loader valve with something detented to pop out, but that would be a bit costly & complex (and beyond my knowledge for now).
If you plumbed in an open center electronically actuated valve into the power beyond loop you could probably have both your normal loader valve & your electronic return to level valve feeding the curl cylinders. When both valves are centered, it will block the work ports & not let the cylinder move. If you were to use either valve, it would open 1 work port to pump & the other to tank, just as normal. Essentially you'd end up with a normal loader valve operating as usual & an electronic valve initiated by a button or 2 to electronically return the bucket to level. Plumbing something in parallel like that would be more brainless to use I think, but harder & more expensive to implement.
Just brainstorming ideas based on my limited knowledge of hydraulics.
OP
WaxMan
Veteran Member
Thanks for commenting and helping out Fallon
I would like to put the valve between one of the two fel curl hoses at the quick connect. Just one quick connection. In and out of the solenoid /valve. I realize it will only stop one way.
Install an on/off button on the joystick and pilot light on the dash showing when power is on for the solenoid.
So after dumping the bucket, press the button on the joystick, power light on dash lights up to let you know the solenoid is waiting for the trigger. Once the bucket curls back up after dumping and hits my level sensor for my Fel level light (already on the tractor) . The solenoid kicks off the hydraulics to the curl and the bucket stops at level . Let go of the joystick, hit the on/off button off, go get another load.
(Nothing myself or any other operator can't do manually)
Could it be something that simple? Just seeing if I can make a simple auto level option.
Then the title of the thread would be
Electronic Fel level indicator with Auto level stop.:thumbsup:
Please I don't want to hear a good operator doesn't need this. I think we all know that.
Remember, I'm the guy who put central vacuum in my cab.
Anymore ideas? Will it work?
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Fallon
Super Member
The only way an on-off solenoid valve in 1 or both work ports between the loader valve & cylinders would be effective is if there is hydraulic pressure/flow in that line. The only time that would happen is if you manually are engaging the loader valve's curl function. Otherwise you'd just be blocking a line that's already blocked by the loader valve (or opening a solenoid on a line already blocked by the loader valve), doing nothing. I'd assume blocking either work port would work, you need pressure & a place for the oil from the other side of the cylinder to go to get stuff to move. I'd expect blocking either line would stop things. Somebody who has more practical experience than I should probably confirm that though.
To be able to hit a button & nothing else then have things return to center via your sensor gear, you'd need another entire valve & hydraulic supply circuit from my understanding. The work ports on your existing loader valve & your new solenoid operated valve should be closed & able to keep cylinders from collapsing. So you should be able to put a T between work port A on the loader valve & the solenoid valve, then another T between the 2 B ports. If you operate either valve it should open 1 work port to pressure & 1 to tank, properly moving the cylinder.
Be careful of taking advice from somebody who has yet to finish his first hydraulic project & can't tell the difference between 3/8" & 1/2" fittings.
I'm a nerd & have recently moved from computers to tractors as my tinkering obsession. I see value in doing cool things for engineering sake, regardless of if I have the skill or not.